Would this only affect it not going down? Seems like it wouldn't work at all if it were the safety switch. My intent is to do the fancy bypass though.
Rear window article available from Gary S (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter shmukster
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Ok need some electrical help…
Finally removed CB and got access to the front switch. Have the multimeter ready to go but my initial testing hasn’t gone way I thought it would.
Would I not put the MM on DC current to check voltage. And with key on should I not have some voltage to the solid blue wire?
Basically I’ve got nothing so now I’ve confirmed that I know nothing about what I’m doing with this multimeter. I was hoping to confirm power to the switch, then see if there was break in continuity of the wire that causes window to go down.
Can someone share the proper way to check this?
Thanks
Finally removed CB and got access to the front switch. Have the multimeter ready to go but my initial testing hasn’t gone way I thought it would.
Would I not put the MM on DC current to check voltage. And with key on should I not have some voltage to the solid blue wire?
Basically I’ve got nothing so now I’ve confirmed that I know nothing about what I’m doing with this multimeter. I was hoping to confirm power to the switch, then see if there was break in continuity of the wire that causes window to go down.
Can someone share the proper way to check this?
Thanks
Last edited:
Well tickle my funny bone!
Still have no idea what has happened but assuming the safety switch may be the culprit. However after I bypassed the safety switch window still wouldn’t go down from the front switch Then after an arduous, foul language filled, bloody knuckle job of making switch accessible to try checking the electrical connect (no freaking idea what I was doing) I checked the front switch.
Hmm well it went up then gave a hint of life to go down. After I tried again it did it’s thing. Since nothing else made sense I tried the key on primary switch in back. Works like a charm. Typically I’d like to celebrate a victory but I don’t have much confidence in the job done.
Still have no idea what has happened but assuming the safety switch may be the culprit. However after I bypassed the safety switch window still wouldn’t go down from the front switch Then after an arduous, foul language filled, bloody knuckle job of making switch accessible to try checking the electrical connect (no freaking idea what I was doing) I checked the front switch.
Hmm well it went up then gave a hint of life to go down. After I tried again it did it’s thing. Since nothing else made sense I tried the key on primary switch in back. Works like a charm. Typically I’d like to celebrate a victory but I don’t have much confidence in the job done.
Last edited:
Top of my head, that looks like part of the safety that stops you from opening the tailgate with the glass up. The spring doesn't look OEM.
tstockto
SILVER Star
Looks like the spring from this post:
Post in thread 'Rear window article available from Gary S'
Rear window article available from Gary S - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-window-article-available-from-gary-s.323706/post-12690695
Post in thread 'Rear window article available from Gary S'
Rear window article available from Gary S - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-window-article-available-from-gary-s.323706/post-12690695
That looks like both parts. Thanks.
Finally had a rear window issue. Been lucky so far I guess. This article helped a ton, but so was this video I found on how to swap the gear out (posted below). Basically my window stopped working while up. I could hear a tiny hint of noise that sounded like the motor was trying to move when I hit the key or the switch in either direction. Figured a broken gear and it was jammed. Ordered the gear, and got into it yesterday. Turns out the gear was in great shape, which is good news. What I think happened is that the gears on the up/down mechanism jumped a tooth and essentially became jammed on the other gear or something. Regardless, when I put it back together it all works great. Tried the 3D printed gear. We'll see how long it lasts.
I also managed to do it all without taking the assembly out of the truck. Left it wired up. I used some heavy duty Zip Wall system rubber tape, wrapped around the roof rack then onto the glass to hold the window up while I pulled the mechanism. Worked like a charm. Seeing all these jerkoffs breaking into cars by pulling windows down with duct tape gave me the idea! Maybe somebody else can use this technique and prevent that guillotine action of the glass dropping. Nice to get a win!
I also managed to do it all without taking the assembly out of the truck. Left it wired up. I used some heavy duty Zip Wall system rubber tape, wrapped around the roof rack then onto the glass to hold the window up while I pulled the mechanism. Worked like a charm. Seeing all these jerkoffs breaking into cars by pulling windows down with duct tape gave me the idea! Maybe somebody else can use this technique and prevent that guillotine action of the glass dropping. Nice to get a win!
Had the same whirring noise and also thought I had a broken gear. Took the whole thing apart and gear was still good. My issue is the glass is too tight on the side rubber…I thought but maybe I should check the gear teeth? Not sure how to really tell though.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Thought this 
went East 
went East
Somehow the teeth of the up down mechanism got off where they had been in relation to the drive gear on mine, which caused my jam up. While I had the mechanism out, I activated it to test it and what I realized is that it would run the gears on the mechanism right over the end so that it wasn't engaged with the drive gear on the motor. The motor would just spin and "whir". Not sure if this is helpful info. Probably already addressed here somewhere. I did that by accident at one point and realized I had to have the gears set at an optimal position so the arms were wide enough to catch the tracks but not too far because the window would not go all the way down. Having it too close would cause the drive gear to run off the end of the mechanism gear again.
I guess we'll see if my original jam up occurs again. I really don't have an explanation as to why it did this in the first place.
this pig is still out west! been outa the MUD pit for a while, but I'm piloting her as much as possible!Thought this
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I wonder who made the video? Virginia Pig...
My tailgate window has not been working great for a while now. Needs a helping hand on the glass for both up and down. This morning I decided to clean up the spare regulator I have. Cleaned off the dirt and grime plus a ton of what seems to be hardened sticky grease. Took literally everything apart and this one is in really good shape compared to the one in my pig now. While cleaning the vice grips popped off and the arms went crazy from the tension of the springs. Now the arms are off alignment so will need to get them back aligned. I’ve done this before on mine and a friends pig so not hard just takes some trial and error. The gear on this one is in really good shape. Any thoughts on using Lithium Grease to lube everything up or is there a better option?
Try starting around 5 teeth offset between the two arms and that will get you close.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I know Ron/ @scrapdaddy likes the Super Lube for windshield wiper motors.
And the tailgate window gear. The stuff really seems to work well.
I can't recall if I wound up with 4 or 6.
