rear body mounts (9 Viewers)

[scrapdaddy]

If you can get it dry, put some sealer on the new plug.

Surfing, really? I just came inside and still have my sock hat and winter coat on, hard typing because my fingers are numb!

 

[xtiaan2000]

I would have to have worn a wetsuit tho Well, to level it out I didn't go surfing and I spent about three hours and two plugs and still havn't gotten that thing back in!!!

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Aughh!! I have been rolling with the new head gasket and all up to par. I have been checking for any loose hoses or fittings to button everything up and what do I find? The rear freeze plug is leaking! A job that could have been so easy with the manifolds off and engine drained now has become more of a chore. Was going to go surfing today, but I can't let this stand.

Any good tricks for this chore. Last I remember- drill a hole in the plug, pry it out and tap in a new one.

permatex #1 hardening sealant, piece of 1" pipe to use as a drift square cut both ends.


what did you find on the turning radius of that scout box? I didn't see a follow up or resolution posted...


I wonder if that head plug has been leaking or letting air into your closed loop cooling system. that could explain a mysterious over temp condition that may have led to the early demise of the gaskets...best check em all huh?

keep at it, you'll get on top soon enough

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

If you can get it dry, put some sealer on the new plug.

Surfing, really? I just came inside and still have my sock hat and winter coat on, hard typing because my fingers are numb!

yeah, we got a cool summer thing goin on out here. I was shirtless for the bulk of yesterday just workin round the outside of the house- over 70* in the day time; bout 30 overnight. if only it would stay like this forever. but rest assured, we will pay for this in spades come july.

 

[xtiaan2000]

The freeze plug finally went in! After me breaking three and my buddy breaking one, took out the accelerator pedal and the fifth one went in using a large socket and hammer. The overheat turns out was caused by the failure of a cap on the water pump that closed off the oil cooler port. I don't have a oil cooler.

None seemed to comment on the whole turn radius thing. Maybe I just need to adjust the steering stabilizer. To tell you the truth I have not done any sleuthing on it myself to make sure that it is not just binding somewhere. With all this other stuff that just got fixed I have not been able to find the time- Home projects and work.

I need to win the lottery! Can someone just buy me a ticket please.

Although this 80degree weather is nice we neeeeed the rain for our fun on the snow!

 

[Gonzo55]

Check both limit stops on your knuckles when wheel is Turned to its limit right to leftThis will give you an indication if your getting max turning capability. Adjust steer rod if not reaching max.FYI if you with bigger tires than stock then that's just the way it goes, it's won't be as tight as stockers.

 

[xtiaan2000]

Hey Gonzo. Need to see some shots of your rig getting after it! Thanks again for all the help!!!

 

[PabloCruise]

Check both limit stops on your knuckles when wheel is Turned to its limit right to leftThis will give you an indication if your getting max turning capability. Adjust steer rod if not reaching max.FYI if you with bigger tires than stock then that's just the way it goes, it's won't be as tight as stockers.

And make sure steering stabilizer is not limiting the steering box. Did you just add a new one?

 

[xtiaan2000]

No I just used the one I had. It attaches to the axle housing and then to the wheel to wheel tie rod.

 

[xtiaan2000]

I think that I am done on the steering system. It has totally changed the drivability of that rig!


Now on to the doors! This welding thing has changed everything! I have had the 55 opening door thing going on forever. To boot I have to really slam the doors to get them to close. And I have not been able to finish putting on Bobm's door sills because the doors are sagging.
GOAL- to have the doors shut like a 2014 car! Am I dreaming? I think I am up for the challenge.


Bear jaw mechanism, door sandblasted, por 15, sound deadening, weld in more metal around the hinge holes like Scrapdaddy, new outside squeegee, new inside felt, new window channel felt, new door rubber, new body side rubber, new door handle rubber, new rear fixed window rubber, new paint...is there anything else that I need to do?


All the felts and rubber I have been collecting through the years. It's all from the "weatherstripping guide" With the exception of the door handle rubber and the (not yet procured $$$$) rear fixed window rubber from SLO.


Finally I gonna use it!!


First hurdle- For some reason my driver side door is lacking the bottom half of the aft side of the window channel. Anyone out there help me with this? The pictures are off the passenger side. I am at a loss why that is gone.

 

[xtiaan2000]

Auughhh. I just wrote up a big post and something went hay wire and it all disappeared!!!
I will try again. I may not be able to muster the same excitement, but I will try.


Super stoked right now. The front doors are all stripped down. The first thing that I did was to thread the holes in the Bear Jaw housing. I went with M8 x 1.00. I stole the idea from buckroseaus fj45lv build ( a must read). It makes it super simple to bolt to the housing to the provided door wall.


I measured and finally bucked up and started cutting. I cut and then cut some more and then a little more, but I am happy how it fits in. I tried to measure based off where the old mechanism was.


Next was the linkages. I rummaged around and found two that unlocked when one pulled the inside release handle. The ones I have now only unlock when you pull up the lock post. COOL added coolness. Next after tinkering around a bit I figured it out. The first thing was to cut off the star wheel housing. Then from the inside grind the post and punch out the whole wheel. Now I had a flat surface. I took the whole mechanism and welded it to the Bear Jaw housing. Super simple! Everything lines up, and the is just enough room to fit in behind lowered window. Stoked.


Now for the body side of the equation. Cut out the old stricker plate. Added some spacers behind the new stricker and tacked it in place. Cut that off and re welded them in again and ta da it works. I am the guy that measures three times and cuts twice.


IT WORKS. The door had all sort of cracks in it from slamming it so hard all those years only to have it open on a turn. I used one finger, ever so softly to shut the door now. I am gonna have to begin saying "don't slam the door" now instead of "put some muscle into it"


Now to fix all the cracks, permanently weld in the door latche wall and on the body I will box out the stricker bar to make it look like it was always there.


While I was getting ready to measure I had to cut off the channel that holds the door rubber and found all the rust. Should I cut off the rest before I get it all sandblasted or just leave it be? How deep should I go down the rabbit hole? I plan to weld those back on to hold the rubber.


Time for some pics.

 

[xtiaan2000]

When I was getting the striker bar positioned a ended up using some spacers to get the right placement.


Got the hinges all ready to be sent to migainc. Stoked


Now although the linkages are all lined up they still need to be hooked together. Originally I thought that I would have to create all sorts of linkages to make them all work independently, but this way all I have to do is make one connection- from the Bear Jaw lever to the lever that holds the old star wheel in place. Only one that should be simple.


More writing later.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

fj60 door seals work pretty good with minimal trimming and gluing. I also like the outer window felt from the 60; I peel the chrom off the A/M ones availible at sor, drill em for clips and glue the edges. I think that door stoppers at the bottom and at the half way point would cut down on in and out travel of the door, regardless of the latches prowess. those BCs look great BTW. I looked into those a couple years ago before getting sidetracked. the rubbers and hinges and latches will shut those door right up. Also, some rotted vacuum tubing over the link rods from door handles to latch keep them from clanking on each other while bouncing down the trail. those door lock pins are super loud when their grommet is awol. the doors were designed at the factory to drown out the whine of the gearboxes at freeway speeds, so every little bit helps. Hey, if you get a winning ticket, would you buy one for me? I got some hinges need rebuilt...

 

[xtiaan2000]

I tell you what, if I get a winning ticket I'll do all of you door hinges. I guess I just gotta buy a ticket.
I heard that about the 60 door rubber and that is what I have been using. Yea it works great!

What do you mean about door stoppers? What are those?

Will be using the vaccum hose trick for sure!

 

[scrapdaddy]

Man, you got some big ones, taking that on.


I'm glad it worked out the way you wanted.


Good Job!

 

[Fitzgerald]

I stole the idea from buckroseaus fj45lv build ( a must read).

Wow, that's for the head's up on this. Just read through a lot of it. Amazing.

Where did you get you bear claws? Did they come as a complete kit (latches, strikers, patch panels,...) or did you have to piece all that together?

My doors have NEVER closed easily and have a tendency to pop open at the most inopportune times.

Thanks.

 

[diversified]

Should have access from inside small panel or with tail light assembly removed. Wire brush inside on threaded part of bolt, penetrating oil and lots of heat carefully with torch. Die grinder and wire wheel head/hinge of bolt. Professional quality impact screw driver with the correct philips bit that matches the screw perfectly. E.G. Harbor Freight impact unit will work, however, their bits will shatter and frustrate you immensely. The correct size bits off a Mac or Snapon truck will work, make the owner happy because it will disassemble the rusty nasty pig bolts. Cherry red bolts, lots of serious hammer blows with good impact screw driver is the ticket with some penetrating juice..... you'll win.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727

 

[PabloCruise]

More pics!

I want to see what you did on the B pillar?

 

[xtiaan2000]

Got some more pictures.

Went through and fixed all the cracks where the window frames meet the door.

Got busy doin the Scrapdaddy! These doors should be stout after all this. I am stoked I am because I found these ugly cracks starting to develope on the door hinge area.

Pablo I have not started the B pillar area yet but I have tacked the stricker in where it should live. I am going to box around them when I get the doors back from the sandblaster and have made sure that I have the alignment down. Especially after having added the extra metal around the hinge area.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Hey Man, now you're cookin'. Those look good.


You're doing a great job on those bear claws. I'd be way out of my comfort zone, with that job. Looking forward to more pictures.