rear body mounts

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PabloCruise said:
Sounds like you need to start w/ a radiator service.

Could this be the source of your head gasket woes?
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this^^^. what can I say, I'm a 2effer for life. the 3FE is a GRRRREAT motor, but the lectrics will kill you. the rad is most likely the source of woes...have the rad recored, find a THC carb and a good runner used 2F. don't pay more than 1200/1300 for the above list, some buds and some beers, and some friends and swap old for newer old. have your spare block disassembled and rebuilt. the 2F is capable of lasting a looooong time. I'd expect that 3K could have a completely rebuilt/built 2F. I'd think that 500 bux could get you into a runner, 4 hundred on the rad and about 375 more for a THC dizzy and carb. sux bro, I BTDT a few times...
 
uncertainty

Got a guy out here that has a 2f out of a 60 that he rebuilt and only has 600 or so miles. Headers, webber, elctronic distributor and with a new radiator. He said he would install it for $5500. You all think that that is a good price?

I really want to go with the v8 eventually, so I am thinking that this would be a waste of money. I am thinking that I should just be patient and start to assemble the needed parts of the V8 and go that route. Work on the body while I wait.

Thoughts out there? I love to hear what you all think? It helps alot.
 
$5500 is alot of money. Maybe if you were a true diehard 6 cylinder guy and you knew it had all new parts in it and the guy selling it was your Brother in law, that your Wife wanted you to help out, then maybe.

You know as well as anybody, if your thinking about a 8 cylinder, you're not going to be happy until you get one.

Doing your own labor on the swap, would save a ton of money and if it's not needed back on the road right away, can be a fun project.

Now that we have a plan, what v8 you thinking about? :)
 
That's way to much money for a stock engine, even rebuilt (MAF/SOR used to sell high performance rebuilt engines for ~$2500) it doesn't make sense. I'd say $2-$2.5k is in line for what you're wanting, a local guy just had a stock FJ62 3FE swapped for ~$900 labor only at LCS here in town to give you an idea on what it should cost (Shop rate is $65/hr).

Tucker
 
how does he plan to install a 60 series radiator into a pig? that's the $5500 question, if ya ask me...seems like a brand spankin new 2F would be about 3K, so he's getting 2500 for some headers a radiator and some kind of install- he can't rightly be billing for the webber, so just cross that off the list...it's a high number IMO, by about 5-900. and that's only IF the motor really is only 600 into a FULL rebuild...
 
Thanks for the input!! I am a rook when it comes to this stuff.

I think that I am going to park it in the driveway and work on the doors and the roofline. While I do that I will be searching you guys for the right V8 to get and all that I will need to make it work before I get into the puttogether.
 
The tie rod that connects the two tires is reusable. The draglink is the same on the passenger tire side (metric) while the side that hooks up to the box is not metric. I had a guy make a tube that I could slide over the passenger side shaft that I had cut to length while accepting the scout end. After I slid the two together I drilled through the outside larger tubing and did rosette welds and then welded the end and ground so it had a tapered look. Does that make sense?
 
jst get it done

Got my head back- milled with all new springs, a new valve and seat and new gaskets. The head cost $380 and the SOR gaskets and thermostat cost about $130. That sound about right for the head?

Turns out after getting it tested the radiator was fine and good to go.:D And the thermostate housing turned out to be good enough. Got this new style exahust manifold gasket. It feels like cork.:meh:

So I am gonna jst get it done myself and and save some money! Put it towards a new engine fund.:clap:

milled head - gaskets 005.webp


milled head - gaskets 007.webp


milled head - gaskets 004.webp
 
Xtiaan2000,

I'm not up on current pricing, but that good to me. Looks good, too.

I forget, what did you decide with the engine. Rings, rod bearings?
 
Ima gonna keep it simple- just the head gasket. I want to drive it around and keep enjoyiing that power steering. I have not decided on the engine I want to go with. But that's okay because I don't have any money for one anyway.

Plus Mt Baldy will hopefully have a sick ski season and I need the cruizer to be ready to get me there!
 
Head is all done. Now just need to get the valves adjusted. Then its off to the races to do the doors- sand blast, por 15, sound proofing, rubbers, felts, and new bear jaw latches. Little intimidated about these door latches. I guess its about that one step!
 
Does anyone have any decent cold valve lash specs? I know the FSM calls for hot, but it would be nice to know what to set 'em to cold if you are under the valve cover doing stuff. It would beat the fun of tearing down while hot to get a good setting...
 
Has anyone noticed diminished turning radius with the Scout steering conversion? I had to adjust the turn stops on the knuckles to full extended, where as before they were almost completely retrackted.

I hate having my doors always popping open! So these bear jaw things look like they will really lock it down. The trick will be to get all the linkages to work together and independently. It should be a good mind bender for me:hhmm:

I will post up a bunch of pics when I get there!
 
aughh!

Aughh!! I have been rolling with the new head gasket and all up to par. I have been checking for any loose hoses or fittings to button everything up and what do I find? The rear freeze plug is leaking:crybaby:! A job that could have been so easy with the manifolds off and engine drained now has become more of a chore. Was going to go surfing today, but I can't let this stand.

Any good tricks for this chore. Last I remember- drill a hole in the plug, pry it out and tap in a new one.
 
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