Realistic Cost(s) of FJ40's (2 Viewers)

[EWheeler]

@Living in the Past - To attempt to answer your question, I'd guess $25K +/- on an auction site (not eBay).

Watch BaT daily for a few weeks and see how FJ40s are selling, and research some of the 'sold' listings. FJ40s that sold for 35K last year are selling for 25K this year - a clear softening of the market (at least on BaT).

I think you're low. For an all original 100% rust free and un-molested 40, I think he could get way more than $25k with some patience and the right marketing. I'm probably one of few, but I value original paint with some blemishes way more than some shiny new paint job, irrespective of how good the restoration was.

 

[Pighead]

I think you're low. For an all original 100% rust free and un-molested 40, I think he could get way more than $25k with some patience and the right marketing. I'm probably one of few, but I value original paint with some blemishes way more than some shiny new paint job, irrespective of how good the restoration was.

Concur

 

[sogafarm]

Seat time in or on a tractor is not all bad....

You’ll be fine with a 40 then. I think my tractor actually rides better than my 40, lol!

 

[sleepycruiser]

I went by the method that the FJ40 would find me. When I searched for one they were all the wrong ones. I looked for several years and tried to be patient. Then eventually the one I bought found me as a referral from someone that knew I was looking for one and it wasn’t up for sale yet. I didn’t have to complete with other offers and had time to research it, etc. I ended up with a solid FJ40 that has been fun to work on (within my limited skills)….and the group here has been great with all of my random (dumb) questions. I absolutely got a much better deal in the end and got something that had been taken care of…..that said, what I’ve learned is that all of these need some elbow grease, so be ready. Zero regrets here.

 

[rex in bama]

I went by the method that the FJ40 would find me. When I searched for one they were all the wrong ones. I looked for several years and tried to be patient. Then eventually the one I bought found me as a referral from someone that knew I was looking for one and it wasn’t up for sale yet. I didn’t have to complete with other offers and had time to research it, etc. I ended up with a solid FJ40 that has been fun to work on (within my limited skills)….and the group here has been great with all of my random (dumb) questions. I absolutely got a much better deal in the end and got something that had been taken care of…..that said, what I’ve learned is that all of these need some elbow grease, so be ready. Zero regrets here.

Yeah, they’ve all seen DECADES of some combo of use, abuse, or disuse. Expect an ongoing work in process. But baselining and then maintaining mine has given me as much fun with this vehicle as any other aspect of ownership.

 

[sogafarm]

There are some great deals in the for sale section now, as low as $6900 for a runner. Also several very nice examples in the $25k range. It’s a good time to buy, not so much to sell. If/ when the economy improves prices will inevitably go up from here.

 

[dazerb]

FWIW, my 74 (build date 10/73) has the 1.5F. US spec.

 

[brooklyn]

Make sure you know what you want as a driving experience because how they are setup makes a big difference as well as the year they were built. Also anything modified is going to take more effort to maintain and get someone to work on it (and forget walking into an auto supply shop). As far as pricing, there appear to be some good deals in everything vintage, but you have to look carefully because a lot is just paint. 100% suggest buying from this site - in most cases you can research the build process and see the work that was done.

 

[archie73]

EDIT. Also anything modified is going to take more effort to maintain and get someone to work on it (and forget walking into an auto supply shop). EDIT

From the perspective of someone who has modified their 40, I have to disagree. The parts for my Chevy engine, transmission and rear brakes are all totally available at the parts store. The interior is just tube and junkyard seats- both readily available. The rest of the truck is getting worse every day.

Sorry for the hijack

 

[gray rider]

From the perspective of someone who has modified their 40, I have to disagree. The parts for my Chevy engine, transmission and rear brakes are all totally available at the parts store. The interior is just tube and junkyard seats- both readily available. The rest of the truck is getting worse every day.

Sorry for the hijack

Hey Arch,
Is your vehicle manual or auto?

 

[brian]

1975 is a good year.

Some would say it's the best year.

 

[gray rider]

I have seen the 40's series database thread regarding actual pricing for sold vehicles.
I have searched but can't find it. Anyone have the link for that?

 

[archie73]

Hey Arch,
Is your vehicle manual or auto?

Manual- 1978 SM465. Chevy version of a tractor transmission. Low first is unsynchronized and the gear spread is less then desirable. Stouter than I’ll, hopefully, ever need.

 

[PEOPLES]

1. Don't buy any rig originating from South America.
2. Don't buy any rig originating from South America.
3. Don't buy any rig originating from South America.

Well, we don't have the FJs down here, you would need to go with a Diesel, which is anyhow the better option (my experience).

Since the Trucks can be imported to USA and they getting old anyhow, they aren't workhorses anymore. Which means, the prices went up dramatically even for s***ty ones. Around -7 years ago, a BJ4 as pickup was normal to be found as a worker, worn down with "a million miles" on the clock. Most of them vanished and some farmers/worker try to sell them for good money.

The way to fix things here is a bit different. That drives me (German) crazy sometimes, but is is how it is. The reason is (not only), that locals wouldn't ever pay for the "right way" to fix things (proper workmanship, new parts). They want to have a cheap and fast solution and that is what you get, when you bring your car to the garage.
BUT they are basically capable of doing proper repairs, but then it will be (almost) European/US prices. You just need to tell them, what you wanna have and accept the costs. Obviously that only works, if you don't have profit in mind and bring your own truck to get things fixed.

But when I see, what the trucks cost in US right now, there is no need anymore to get a SA one, since the price is almost the same. A good truck down here is easily in the 30k range now. If you wanna have a certain year or version (like me, a long frame, closed, OM364-Engine with a five speed gearbox), things getting rare and expensive.
But I agree, the prices kind of leveled off.

I own a 89er BJ40 with the mercedes engine and my TOC over the last 2 years had been around 1.5 BRL per km (if my math is correct, 0.45USD/mile). But I do 100% maintenance myself (except tire changes).

 

[EWheeler]

Well, we don't have the FJs down here, you would need to go with a Diesel, which is anyhow the better option (my experience).

Since the Trucks can be imported to USA and they getting old anyhow, they aren't workhorses anymore. Which means, the prices went up dramatically even for s***ty ones. Around -7 years ago, a BJ4 as pickup was normal to be found as a worker, worn down with "a million miles" on the clock. Most of them vanished and some farmers/worker try to sell them for good money.

The way to fix things here is a bit different. That drives me (German) crazy sometimes, but is is how it is. The reason is (not only), that locals wouldn't ever pay for the "right way" to fix things (proper workmanship, new parts). They want to have a cheap and fast solution and that is what you get, when you bring your car to the garage.
BUT they are basically capable of doing proper repairs, but then it will be (almost) European/US prices. You just need to tell them, what you wanna have and accept the costs. Obviously that only works, if you don't have profit in mind and bring your own truck to get things fixed.

But when I see, what the trucks cost in US right now, there is no need anymore to get a SA one, since the price is almost the same. A good truck down here is easily in the 30k range now. If you wanna have a certain year or version (like me, a long frame, closed, OM364-Engine with a five speed gearbox), things getting rare and expensive.
But I agree, the prices kind of leveled off.

I own a 89er BJ40 with the mercedes engine and my TOC over the last 2 years had been around 1.5 BRL per km (if my math is correct, 0.45USD/mile). But I do 100% maintenance myself (except tire changes).

The SA landcruisers fall into a stereotype they have earned. s***ty sellers/restorers taking advantage of poorly educated buyers with a shiny paint job, leading to the term “spray and pray” to describe the SA trucks that make there way North.

I would seriously consider a SA 43 series if it had not been “restored”. All i want is the chassis, VIN and the untouched original sheet metal. I have everything else to make it the truck i want and it would save me a ton of labor stretching one of my 40’s.

 

[Living in the Past]

Well, we don't have the FJs down here, you would need to go with a Diesel, which is anyhow the better option (my experience).

Since the Trucks can be imported to USA and they getting old anyhow, they aren't workhorses anymore. Which means, the prices went up dramatically even for s***ty ones. Around -7 years ago, a BJ4 as pickup was normal to be found as a worker, worn down with "a million miles" on the clock. Most of them vanished and some farmers/worker try to sell them for good money.

The way to fix things here is a bit different. That drives me (German) crazy sometimes, but is is how it is. The reason is (not only), that locals wouldn't ever pay for the "right way" to fix things (proper workmanship, new parts). They want to have a cheap and fast solution and that is what you get, when you bring your car to the garage.
BUT they are basically capable of doing proper repairs, but then it will be (almost) European/US prices. You just need to tell them, what you wanna have and accept the costs. Obviously that only works, if you don't have profit in mind and bring your own truck to get things fixed.

But when I see, what the trucks cost in US right now, there is no need anymore to get a SA one, since the price is almost the same. A good truck down here is easily in the 30k range now. If you wanna have a certain year or version (like me, a long frame, closed, OM364-Engine with a five speed gearbox), things getting rare and expensive.
But I agree, the prices kind of leveled off.

I own a 89er BJ40 with the mercedes engine and my TOC over the last 2 years had been around 1.5 BRL per km (if my math is correct, 0.45USD/mile). But I do 100% maintenance myself (except tire changes).

South America and Central America are general terms thrown around. Brazil is a locally produced
bandeirante. This is not an FJ40. Body parts are completely different and do not interchange with the 40 series. At some point it did switched to a Toyota made diesel engine. Production didn't end until 2001 as I remember.This basically done because of regulations in Brazil. It was the Brazil's regulations is why very few have been exported and made their way to the US. Venezuela FJ40s were from kits and by law have some non Toyota parts like a Dana rear axle. The VIN on the kit vehicles do not do not fall into the VIN chart to date the vehicle. Their number is much higher. Very few of Venezuela 40 series have been imported. In general Columbia and Costa Rica are where most imports from south of the US are coming from.

 

[Ozpall]

The SA landcruisers fall into a stereotype they have earned. s***ty sellers/restorers taking advantage of poorly educated buyers with a shiny paint job, leading to the term “spray and pray” to describe the SA trucks that make there way North.

I would seriously consider a SA 43 series if it had not been “restored”. All i want is the chassis, VIN and the untouched original sheet metal. I have everything else to make it the truck i want and it would save me a ton of labor stretching one of my 40’s.

that's what i did, i went and got me an original paint none restored 1 owner fj40. the only thing they had changed was the wheels.

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

Asking about the current price of an FJ40 is somewhat like asking for a top vacation spot. Both entail considering a myriad of factors. There has been a wealth of good advice shared here, and I agree with the suggestions to...

- Do lots of homework
- See and drive lots of examples
- Be patient
- Buy the nicest example you can afford
- Have a clear plan of what you want (Year, features, running/non-funning, etc.)
- Ask for help if you have friends or contacts who know 40's

I would disagree with the advice "Stay away from BAT" and "Don't buy a South American model.

Yes, stay away if you don't do your homework, or know about 40's. I have seen some occasionally good deals on BAT and I have seen some really nice SA 40's, but you have to do your homework and know what you are buying.

#1 advice... DO YOUR HOMEWORK and know what you are buying.

 

[DeskJock]

Parts logistics for non US FJ40 Landcrusiers is considerably different than a US FJ40 - as are the manuals and part numbers themselves.

Totally agree- need to study the vehicle.

BAT is an enormous wealth of information as is this website.

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

Parts logistics for non US FJ40 Landcrusiers is considerably different than a US FJ40 - as are the manuals and part numbers themselves.

Totally agree- need to study the vehicle.

BAT is an enormous wealth of information as is this website.

Agree!!

Hagerty.com also has some good info.