Guys, My 100 has 268k on the original radiator. No leaks or problems so far, but it's turning a little brown on the plastic. Would ya'll recommend replacing this radiator, and if so, what brand would you recommend? Where would be the best place to order one? Thanks in advance for any advice you can throw my way.
Radiator advice needed (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter cpainter
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OEM on all parts whenever possible however there is a thread going around below
Best replacement radiator for the money today... - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/best-replacement-radiator-for-the-money-today.941526/page-2
Every time you add an aftermarket part to your cruiser, a little bit of it dies inside.
Mine and many others have had similar symptoms. Eventually it will weep, and then leak. I don't think there are many reported cases of the radiator like blowing and leaking like crazy but it should be on your To-Do list at some point
Partsouq.com is overseas but trustworthy
McGeorge Toyota or one of the other online discount Toyota dealers are legit in the US.
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
Yes. Replace if turning brown.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Would it be best to replace, at 250K and brown? YES!
With All OEM: Radiator, thermostat, cap (included w/rad), upper & lower hose (w/OEM clamps, Old ones are fine), heater tees, coolant.
But I've seen brown tops last 100K miles more, after turning.
It really depends on intended use and alertness to coolant leak.
* Off road 500 miles for a nowhere, or a daily drive around town. REPLACE
* Some driver's never check coolant level, for leaks or noticing sweet smell. REPLACE
* Others, keep close eye on coolant and very sensitive to the smell of coolant. WAIT UNTIL LEAKS if budget a concern!
Very often, when bring system up to proper pressure & operation. By replacing thermostat, cap and proper topping of coolant. The increase in pressure results in upper plastic on rad fracturing. Most times the leaks are more of a weep, not a sudden blow out.
Keep the fins clean, even if replacing. We two radiators (AT oil & AC condenser) in front of the engine rad. They all need to be kept clean:
Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert
I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...
forum.ih8mud.com
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hoser
SILVER Star
Denso vs T.Rad.
Read this post:
forum.ih8mud.com
Read this post:
Best replacement radiator for the money today...
It was Amazon from Big Red Auto Parts for $281 shipped. Radiator DENSO 221-3152 Thanks, but the link is to ebay order error, and I come up with nothing at Amazon from Big Red Auto Parts:bang:
forum.ih8mud.com
I have to start looking as well, the top of my radiator is getting green/brown.
We are planning for a 10,000km trip next year so it would need to be replaced.
Looking a KoyoRad at the moment.
We are planning for a 10,000km trip next year so it would need to be replaced.
Looking a KoyoRad at the moment.
Yes! If it's original and that many miles just replaced it. You will never know when and where that radiator will take a dump and you may not be able to pull over fast enough to save the engine. This is what happened with the 100 i bought recently, the engine is done, no compression on all six holes.
BullElk
SILVER Star
I have bought several of the TYC brands on Amazon with excellent results. Even some of those say Koyo on them.
2001LC
SILVER Star
NEW OEM one and done. If properly cared for, last a very long time.
Their life span is shorten, brown and cracking. Due to improper coolant service.
To get the most life:
Where there are many good Radiator on the Market. Some even fit well. But the Toyota Radiator (T Rad), is built for exact fitment and too Toyotas' high standards.
Biggest issue I've had, with non Toyota. Is fitment:
Their life span is shorten, brown and cracking. Due to improper coolant service.
To get the most life:
- They must be kept topped, at all times. Air pocket will dry out the plastic tops and the Tees.
- Coolant needs flushing on schedule. IMHO; even more often when Toyota SLL (PINK) used, then its sch calls for.
- Fins must be kept clean of debris.
- Cap & thermostat, must be replaced when not functioning at peak performance. (~90K or 7 yr)
Where there are many good Radiator on the Market. Some even fit well. But the Toyota Radiator (T Rad), is built for exact fitment and too Toyotas' high standards.
Biggest issue I've had, with non Toyota. Is fitment:
- Lower radiator hose weep.
- Added labor to move foam over from old rad.
- OEM cap fitment issue. Like with the Mishimoto Aluminum radiator. Which has, the goose neck of a Subaru. The cap is a 19 PSI (1.3 BAR), which is higher PSI than the 100 series 4.7L designed for. Use of OEM questionable and not recommended. But yet, no warning on Radiator or note of which caps fit. The depth to bottom of goose neck, is greater than OEM. OEM bottom seal, will contact. But spring compression is less. So unknown if OEM will function as designed.
- Workmanship of the transmission cooler, which in the bottom plastic housing. If this leaks, it can cross contaminate into transmission.
- Bolt holes not lining up.
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Yeah nah, not going for a AUD$1500 radiator.
Koyo is AUD$400
Koyo is AUD$400
