No joke. That's why I am putting an Aussie in the front instead of an ARB or some other selectable. BUDGETS SUCK
I believe you are correct about the mini vs FJ60 steering. Seems like the mini version has solid rotors instead of vented too.
Builds Putting the rust demon at bay
- Thread starter archie73
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I believe you are correct about the mini vs FJ60 steering. Seems like the mini version has solid rotors instead of vented too.
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- #442
I’ve been doing some research on putting an ARB into the front. I have an extra 3rd so I can get that setup at my leisure. Next in the the block is the axle shafts and birfields. As has been discussed earlier in the thread, it seems prudent to upgrade with the locker, low gearing and v8. Initially, my Gearhead self thought might as well go for the 300m RCV’s. Then I read the round forge article that points out the potential weak link moves into the differential. So now I’m looking back at chromoly setups.what’s the preferred brand on these?
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- #443
It’s been a few years since I did the swap, but I believe I did the ifs 4runner caliper and rotor upgrade. The ones that came in my donor axle were not an option.
Budget wise, owning a Land Cruiser has never been cheap. I’ve been hemming and hawing on a locker/axle upgrade for a year or so. Prices have only gone up since, but I haven’t been in the right place moneywise. My recent trip to Grand Junction highlighted the need if I want to continue these types of trails.
I have an ARB in rear and EZ locker in front. I leave front hubs engaged when offroad and shift transfer in/out of 4wd, Since aussie/ez locker unlock when coasting I find this setup a nice compromise and totally transparent on the pavement.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
I started with a lockrite in the rear and ran open in the frt for yrs, then installed an /arb in the frt. I found with the locker in the rear and the frt open you can do about 90% of the trails with an open frt end and when something required it, I'd engage the ARB. I tried a lockrite in the frt and hated the shifting in and out of 4wd. A locked frt end on the trail will push in turns and is hard to turn without power steering. An open frt end will handle and corner better on the trail. Id recommend installing alloy birfs in the frt. All of my stk broken birf were with a locker in the frt. I currently run a Detroit locker in the rear and an old ARB in the frt.
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- #446
Since the truck is used 95% street and my wife drives as well, I’m going to stick with the ARB in the back. I get the budget reasoning for a lockright up front, but I really like the transparency of the selectable locker at the flip of a switch. I do switch between 2&4wd a fair bit, but I don’t have faith that when I’m in a pickle and need more steering I’ll always be able to disengage the transfer.
Truth be told I can absolutely justify the ARB cost. The chromoly axles were a bit tougher AND that’s the reason it hasn’t happened yet. I’m shopping for axles now, just trying to decide what’s hype and what’s real.
- Seems TrailGear has an equal like/dislike
- G2 can’t find much, but seem to have a big box store feel
- Marlin- seems a solid company
- RCV- bling bling
I have never owned an ARB, but the E-locker I have will absolutely not disengage if it’s in a bind like I think you’re talking about. It always takes a couple wheel turns or left and right turns to unlock the splines or teeth in the carrier.
Not trying to sway you either way, but unless I’m missing something, the selectable function wouldn’t really be a strength in that situation. Maybe the ARB is different?
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- #448
I suppose there’s no perfect selectable locker. I haven’t had that issue, but maybe I haven’t been in that exact situation. All I can say is I’m happy with the ARB I have in the rear. I’m getting closer…
I would go rcv. I've never seen a front differential damaged except for some odd exceptions.
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- #450
Honestly, this is where my gut says. Money-wise I’ll be waiting til Black Friday at this point. Im not sure I really need the 300m- I’m more highway than trail, but I like the idea of overkill when I’m on the trail.
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- #451
Pulled it out so I could get the cab from the ford in the garage. When the cruiser finally came back in it was cover with this white stuff.
Also, a friendly reminder- worn BFG MTs are horrible on snow and ice… but fun in there own way…
Also, a friendly reminder- worn BFG MTs are horrible on snow and ice… but fun in there own way…
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- #452
Winter is here. Skis and snowboards are out of storage and the cruiser is headed for hibernation.
So what a feller to do? Retail therapy?
@Okie_dave was selling these Longfieilds he had as spares. I’m one step closer to locking the front end….
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- #453
Thinking out loud about an idea- 37’s w/4”SUA AND body lift???
I’ve been looking for a set of beadlocks that’ll fit my 6 lug axles. Found a used set that come with 37” mickeys. These would be trail dedicated tires. Currently running 35’s with 4” sua and minor rubbing at full flex. Basic math says the 37 is 1” bigger radius then the 35, sooooo if I added a 1” body lift would be able to run 37’s on the trail AND NOT increase the rubbing effect ?
I’ve been looking for a set of beadlocks that’ll fit my 6 lug axles. Found a used set that come with 37” mickeys. These would be trail dedicated tires. Currently running 35’s with 4” sua and minor rubbing at full flex. Basic math says the 37 is 1” bigger radius then the 35, sooooo if I added a 1” body lift would be able to run 37’s on the trail AND NOT increase the rubbing effect ?
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- #454
No work is happening here, but I do love my commute..
Still looking fora break on the price of an ARB… maybe some beadlocks….
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- #455
I finally gave in on the ARB and bought it online. Another thread pointed out polyperformance had a 10% coupon, so I ran with it. Also order a pinion install kit from @cruiseroutfit, but forgot the carrier bearings. Maybe if they haven’t shipped I can get them on the same order. I’ll reach out today.
Plan is to rebuild the rear differential that got pulled when I upgraded to the fine spline 80 chunk/arb for the back. I need to dig this out of the parts pile and make sure it’s up for the job. If not I’ll pull the diff out of the cruiser.
This leads me to the next step- do I farm out the locker install or do it myself? I’ve never set up a differential, but like most shadetree mechanics I enjoy a challenge. I’ve been watching the @OTRAMM youtube videos on the 9.5 diff and I think I have a decent grasp on what it takes. Tool wise I’ll have to buy a dial indicator and fab up the SST for the end caps, but the rest I have at work. OR I breakdown the old diff and farm it out to a local shop. It would likely be better done and I wouldn’t have to buy/make any special tools that aren’t likely to used a lot. What do peeps think? @White Stripe i think this is your area of expertise- should I leave it to the pro?
Plan is to rebuild the rear differential that got pulled when I upgraded to the fine spline 80 chunk/arb for the back. I need to dig this out of the parts pile and make sure it’s up for the job. If not I’ll pull the diff out of the cruiser.
This leads me to the next step- do I farm out the locker install or do it myself? I’ve never set up a differential, but like most shadetree mechanics I enjoy a challenge. I’ve been watching the @OTRAMM youtube videos on the 9.5 diff and I think I have a decent grasp on what it takes. Tool wise I’ll have to buy a dial indicator and fab up the SST for the end caps, but the rest I have at work. OR I breakdown the old diff and farm it out to a local shop. It would likely be better done and I wouldn’t have to buy/make any special tools that aren’t likely to used a lot. What do peeps think? @White Stripe i think this is your area of expertise- should I leave it to the pro?
They aren’t hard, just take it slow and be methodical. Don’t make more than one adjustment at a time.
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- #457
That’s encouraging, thanks. I’m confident I can make the end cap tool at work, I’ve made similar tools in the past. Anyone have any recommendations on dial indicator that won’t break the bank? I don’t know how much I’ll really need it, so I don’t really need a top of line one. Just something that’ll give me reliable readings.
Just dug the old center chunk out of the parts pile and it looks good. If my odometer is correct it has less than 80k on it. I’m inclined to believe it, but it’ll get a full rebuild either way.
Here is the one I bought when I did mine. I usually go for the best, but it’s accurate enough to set up gears.
Qnkaa Dial Indicator with Magnetic Base Holder Fine Adjustable Long Arm 0-1" Professional Gauge 0.001" https://a.co/d/biV2p4w
2" body lift is one of the best things i did to my cruiser. I wouldnt do 1" though. I would do 2". Once you start installing the 2" body lift it becomes apparent how it fits the construction of the fj40 body really well. You will really like the increased capability
I would say depends how much time vs money you have. If you have the time to carefully setup the arb go for it. Having it done elsewhere will cost more bit then any issues is on them which is a plus. You can add a york compressor to a LS motor easily too fyi.
- Thread starter
- #460
I have to admit the thought of a 2” seems a bit much, BUT I’ve never seen one in person. In my mind a 1” body lift seems subtle, but 2” seems like it would be more noticeable. I’d like to see some pics
The beadlocks w/37’s that were for sale got me started on this thought process are not currently for sell anymore. Seems the seller decided to keep them for the winter. Truth be told I don’t know if I had the budget for both the ARB and the beadlocks, so I guess he made the descision for me. Perhaps I’ll have the funds again when he decided to sell again.
I think I have the time and I’m game for the challenge. Cost is a factor, but if I can’t get it right I’ll take it to a pro to clean up my mess. One up shot is I already have a compressor, so I don’t need to spend money on that. The York would be sweet on the bagged f100 though.
