Purist Bone Stock FJ-55 - The next chapter!!

[jynx]

Those 4 lines are factory routed to a vent in the inner fender, then forward to a charcoal canister, looks like other than possibly your cap you’ve had no vent.

Yeah, not sure if it was pressurized the tank or not. Never heard and hissing when I opened the cap. I don't know that I need all the lines, but I do need a return line, a filler vent and a tank vent to atmosphere.

Might not be quite as easy as I had originally thought... well just have to see I guess.

 

[PabloCruise]

Thank you @PabloCruise I appreciate the offer, but the Pig came with what looks like a d@mn near new, or at least very well preserved replacement tank.

View attachment 3138377

It's been sitting and I broke one of the five screws off removing the sending unit.
View attachment 3138379

But I think this sending unit probably will work if I want to install a guage.
View attachment 3138384

The inside looks new. But I'll have it cleaned and dipped for good measure. The visible rust I believe is from sitting for the last 7 or 8 years.
View attachment 3138381
View attachment 3138380

Sump with AN fittings already installed in the bottom.
View attachment 3138378

I would have put it on the opposite side from the exhaust, but it looks to be far enough away. (Taped a CAD mockup in place to see)

View attachment 3138385

Just enough room for the lines to tuck right under the rear body cross-member and be protected by the rear "bumper"
View attachment 3138387


So plan is to drain and drop the old tank and rip out all the existing plumbing. Install the new old tank in its place. New 3/8" supply and return (return will be plumbed into the old fill and return fittings) all the way. And just because I tend to over-do everything, the rear pump will be a "lift pump" to fill a new sump that I'll mount in the engine bay.
View attachment 3138386
Oil filter mock-up. I'll relocate the two relays on the fender and mount it to what's left of the old inner fender. Then plumb that into the feed and return on the rails...

I'll have no idea what actually fixes it, but it should be fixed...

Now to start squirreling away parts for the overhaul.

That tank looks older than’75 with those vapor lines at each corner.

My ‘74 tank has all 4 vapor lines on the driver side, towards the rear.

 

[PabloCruise]

Looking at things, the tanks are different. Not sure what year is what, but the tank in the truck has the current pick up and return coming out on the passenger side front.
View attachment 3138460

And has a plethora of lines on the drivers side that are looped off.
View attachment 3138461

The other tank only has 2 lines on the drivers side and nothing on the passenger side. And also doesn't have a vent for the filler neck.
View attachment 3138462

It also has this plugged hole in the passenger side corner.
View attachment 3138463

Wondering if the tank with the sump is an older tank and the other one is a newer tank that would have had more hoses connected for smog purposes. Have to do some investigating. I don't necessarily need the extra holes, but the filler vent seems like it would be good to have.

What you are describing for the tank that is in the Pig sounds similar to the tank in my ‘74.

 

[jynx]

I need to crawl under my '69 and confirm, but I believe that the modified tank came from an early pig. I think the pre-73 tanks didn't have the venting and '73+ tanks had the additional vents and connections.

I was hoping this would be less difficult...

Of course, if I intend to have the tank dipped and sealed, there isn't anything to stop me from installing a filler neck vent and any additional tank vents as needed prior to sending it off for cleaning. May study on that more as I inch toward the drop.

 

[55guy]

Who painted that grill ? somebody did a good job !

 

[jynx]

Who painted that grill ? somebody did a good job !

Thanks.

 

[jynx]

Welp, took it for a spin this afternoon and the brushless fan setup is going in the bin. It is doing the same as the first one did. Truck was at 235 by the time we got back to the house. I have not spoken to anyone from SPAL or wizard, so not bashing, but im going back to a brushed setup, and am going to look into adding an aux cooler in the mix remotely.

It's a shame, when it worked, it worked beautifully, but when it takes a dump, it's DOA because of the internal computer of the BL system.

 

[scrapdaddy]

I know you put a lot of work and effort into the electric fans, but have you thought of going back to a manual fan. I've always had good outcomes with just the boring old manual fans.

 

[jynx]

I know you put a lot of work and effort into the electric fans, but have you thought of going back to a manual fan. I've always had good outcomes with just the boring old manual fans.

I have some, but not a lot. I'll look into what I'd need to make that happen. It never had a manual fan being a vette tpi, but it's a chevy, so likely just plug and play.

 

[RUSH55]

It’ll depend on if your water pump outlets will accept a mechanical fan.
Having deja vu for some reason…

 

[jynx]

Yeah, we've hashed this before. I've been in some 3rd gen chevy forums reading and they all seem to stay with electric. I did look at the end of the water pump, but don't know what it'd take to put the mechanical fan on.

I'm going to get a Taurus fan and give that a try. If that doesn't work, I'll look more into the mech fan option.

 

[RUSH55]

Well, maybe we can try to think this through out loud for a bit before jumping around.
Lots of modern vehicles running electric fans, why is it not working for this setup?

Do you know first and foremost any history on the engine as far as rebuilds or overbore?

Secondly, refresh me on the radiator and what the coolant volume heat exchange needs are vs. the engine, I.E. is it big enough?

Third, the thermostat and water pump are operational?

Fourth, what is the mechanism that engages the electric fan(s) and what are the set points, and does the fan speed change at all with increases in temp?

 

[archie73]

I'm going to get a Taurus fan and give that a try. If that doesn't work, I'll look more into the mech fan option.

I like mine. Keep in mind they are a 40 amp draw. I have separated it from the rest of the wiring and it runs a direct line from the positive bus bar with a fuse. Also, I’m using a soft start really setup from a Volvo 850(?). This keeps the 40 amp fuse from blowing- the initial start draw is pretty crazy. I use the trigger wire from the stock lm7 ecu to turn the relay on. On my SBC I had it turned on by ignition power.
I’m making it seem more complicated than it is, they’re great fans and easily adapted. Also of note the Volvo fan is said to be the same unit. The Volvo at the yard was already robbed, so headed over to grab the Taurus fan. I like it so much I have an extra on the wall for the next project or if this one fails.

 

[bobm]

PUSH?? OR! PULL???

 

[jynx]

@archie73 thanks for the info. The SPAL setup was/is super high amp draw, 50A if I recall correctly, and is wired directly so sounds like I will have a start on the wiring. I will check out the soft start setup you mentioned. Do you use the hi/low feature or is yours just straight hi?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Thank you @PabloCruise I appreciate the offer, but the Pig came with what looks like a d@mn near new, or at least very well preserved replacement tank.

View attachment 3138377

It's been sitting and I broke one of the five screws off removing the sending unit.
View attachment 3138379

But I think this sending unit probably will work if I want to install a guage.
View attachment 3138384

The inside looks new. But I'll have it cleaned and dipped for good measure. The visible rust I believe is from sitting for the last 7 or 8 years.
View attachment 3138381
View attachment 3138380

Sump with AN fittings already installed in the bottom.
View attachment 3138378

I would have put it on the opposite side from the exhaust, but it looks to be far enough away. (Taped a CAD mockup in place to see)

View attachment 3138385

Just enough room for the lines to tuck right under the rear body cross-member and be protected by the rear "bumper"
View attachment 3138387


So plan is to drain and drop the old tank and rip out all the existing plumbing. Install the new old tank in its place. New 3/8" supply and return (return will be plumbed into the old fill and return fittings) all the way. And just because I tend to over-do everything, the rear pump will be a "lift pump" to fill a new sump that I'll mount in the engine bay.
View attachment 3138386
Oil filter mock-up. I'll relocate the two relays on the fender and mount it to what's left of the old inner fender. Then plumb that into the feed and return on the rails...

I'll have no idea what actually fixes it, but it should be fixed...

Now to start squirreling away parts for the overhaul.

it looks like you need a NEW 100% toyota oem genuine parts sending unit float gauge ?


i know who has a bunch of them , and they even come with a kool replacement all oem parts SUB-HARNESS section and a updated 2-wire plug connector too ......

heck this service kit even comes with the special CHROME-MOLY 5 screws that will never rust and snap off like those sadly did above ......

 

[archie73]

@archie73 thanks for the info. The SPAL setup was/is super high amp draw, 50A if I recall correctly, and is wired directly so sounds like I will have a start on the wiring. I will check out the soft start setup you mentioned. Do you use the hi/low feature or is yours just straight hi?

I’m straight to high. Maybe not the most economical, but it seems to work well for me. I have visions of setting up the low speed off the computer, but haven’t spent enough time on it yet. Don’t get me wrong I’ve gone through the Chevy diagrams, but something is amiss for the second trigger wire. It’s possible it wants to trigger higher than I’m comfortable going. It’s one of those things I’ll get eventually… I see 210 climbing a couple miles of 10% grade, but never higher with a stock Toyota radiator. Unless of course the fuse melts.

 

[archie73]

This turns out to be a timely discussion for me as well. We went to the big city today and I spent an hour in the pick n pull. Specifically, I was looking for Volvos. When you google the Taurus fan and the Volvo relay, you will eventually read posts that say the best bang for the buck is actually the Volvo relay AND fan. Seems the the Volvo fan is said to be the same unit as the Taurus, BUT you can unbolt it from the shroud and easily adapt it to your custom shroud. Note the bolts around the parameter of the fan

Two bolts from the top and it pulls off the radiator. IF someone else has removed the intake manifold. I actually found two! The first pulled off super easy (no manifold), but the second not so much. The wife was tapping her foot so I settled for just the relay on the second car. Had I more time, I’m sure I could of gotten the second one out in one piece
This is the relay I’ve been running, happily. My issue is I didn’t grab the plugs the first time. I can’t seem to get a bullet connector to get sufficient hold on the relay posts for off-roading. Those locking terminals should solve the issues.

As for the fan, I have a 59 f100 that’ll need cooling eventually…

Hope this is helpful. Peeps in mud have been good to me, so I like to give back when I have something to contribute. Killer pig.

 

[RUSH55]

What model/year of Volvo does that come out of?

 

[J Mack]

What model/year of Volvo does that come out of?

Look in my build thread and buried in there somewhere is all the dates for the different Volvo and Ford fans and the CFM for each along with all the part numbers for the dual temperature sending units for the two speed fans.