Project "Sparkles"-1997 LX450 Gen V 6.2 Swap (2 Viewers)

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Here is a question for the class. My oil guage is pinning to H when I key on (no start). I currently have one white wire running to the sender. I don’t remember there ever being 2 wires to it but I’ve been wrong before. The EWD SHOWS 2 WIRES. White and one brown that traces to ground. Am I missing a ground from the copper “pin” on the center of the sender?
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Here is a question for the class. My oil guage is pinning to H when I key on (no start). I currently have one white wire running to the sender. I don’t remember there ever being 2 wires to it but I’ve been wrong before. The EWD SHOWS 2 WIRES. White and one brown that traces to ground. Am I missing a ground from the copper “pin” on the center of the sender? View attachment 3614447
Yes, there should be 2 connections to the sender unit. The same wire splits towards the end and will have 2 grounding points that connect to the oil pressure sender.

I'll try and find a pic.
 
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Here is the install of the Tejas kit. In the first pic you see the bracket bolts to the factory vacuum pump location and you see the cut out for the oil pressure sender (if you want) I’m either putting my factory oil sender there( with an adapter) or on the oil cooler block off I ordered from Earls.

The Tejas kit is 2 parts and sandwiches the Saginaw pump in place. It’s VERY SOLID. and I don’t foresee any issues with motor mounts, frame, or power steering gear box…but I guess wok will find out. View attachment 3559209View attachment 3559210View attachment 3559211View attachment 3559212View attachment 3559213
Doesn’t interfere with steering?
 
Throttle Pedal:

Adapting the Gen V “truck” pedal was easy peasy. First I took a piece of 3x2 square tubing and mounted the new pedal to it. Then, using the factory 80 pedal I made a template out of cardboard and drilled holes to match the fire wall. The holes on the firewall for the factory pedal are funky so take your time in making a template. Also, don’t just flip the pedal and use it as a template itself because it’ll be backwards.
Bolt it in using the factory hardware.
Placement (for me) was excellent and the mount is SOLID.
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Crack a beer.
 
SHIFTER

converting the 96’ shifter to the driver side:
Undo the 2 bolts attaching the shifter and lever to the cross shaft.

Pry off the arms and slide the crass shaft out.

Now you need to clearance the shoulder “deeper” to be able to bolt both pieces to the same side as the cross shaft. The over and shifter are Keyed like a rectangle so grind the shoulder so it’s deeper into the cross shaft.

Cut a clearance section from the shifter mounting plate. I used a drill bit to start 4 holes just cut it with a jig saw.

Bolt it all back together.
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