product review and use impressions por15 vs rust bullet

[BJ42Brumby]

Hello. What a great read. Thankyou to all those who put so much effort into describing their experiences. I've just spent the day degreasing and cleaning my BJ chassis in readiness for sandblasting. And then I've got my litre can of POR15 and Blackcote. I'm very nervous about using it and doing the prep right. I hope I get it right. No doubt I'll be sweating from stress. Better go and get myself some John McEnroe sweat bands ha ha ha...
I'll let you all know how I get on..

 

[nspctr1]

You will probably get a million different opinions on each product but I chose POR 15 for my setup and it worked great.. One thing to mention, WEAR gloves..... have plenty of ventillation. I painted my fuel tank and when I was preparing to install it I dropped it on the concrete driveway and it didn't dent the tank and better yet it didn't even phase the POR......

 

[bsmith123]

POR Prep

Mcenroe sweat bands for sure and Gene Simmons shorts--that's be great for a por job ha ha!

Lostmarbles ---We're not the crazy ones

 

[PabloCruise]

So if I am looking at painting over surface rust on a frame and axles (that still have some factory paint) then it sounds like the Rust Bullet is better?

Is there a third major product besides RB and POR?

 

[lostmarbles]

So if I am looking at painting over surface rust on a frame and axles (that still have some factory paint) then it sounds like the Rust Bullet is better?....

Well for me "the jury is still out" on that one Pablocruise. There does seem to be significant opinion expressed here that RB is better for this application. But I've done the front axle and two thirds of my chassis (so far) with POR15. And I've painted it over surface rust (which incidentally is the BEST base for POR15 and FAR better than "clean bare metal") and over a lot of factory paint (There was much more "factory paint" left on my chassis than there was "bare metal". But I tend to clean up body panels much closer to "bare-metal-status".) I have had no issues at all so far with the POR15 separating from the factory paint on that work. - But I hasten to add that the "factory paint" had been scratched and sanded and treated with "Marine Clean" and "Metal Ready" prior to brushing on the POR15 primer. (The paint got the "Metal Ready" treatment only because it was easier to brush it on "the lot" rather than try to get it just on the rust/bare-metal areas alone.)

Oh - But you probably shouldn't "apply much credibility" to my support of POR15 for the chassis - because this work hasn't yet "stood the test of time". However I wouldn't be continuing to use POR15 if I wasn't confident in it in this application.

(Sorry - Lot of words here. But I seem to need lots to state what I'm trying to say clearly.)

 

[bsmith123]

other products

Hello,

For your viewing pleasure----follow this link to see TED NUGENTS Zebra Striped Bronco get ChAssis Saver Applied--haha
YouTube - Stacey David uses CHASSIS SAVER on Ted Nugent's Rusty Bronco

Man you think Nugent would drive a 40

Yup there are other products like Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator and many others.

In the old days I would have probably sanded, used naval jelly, primered and painted with enamel and I bet that would last a long time and I would have been happy with that.

I don't think you will have a prob with POR over old paint and yes it says it actually stick best to rust ---the metal ready produces flash rust for this purpose I imagine. I believe you can use other cleaners and metal preps like tri sodium phosphate and osphoric acid cheaper than the POR products with good results too.

My intention was to post impressions of using it not decide between the two products as I am using both

I think the prob stems with our obsession to get the absolute best bullet proof solution and know we got the best--in truth all of the products probably do a similar good job and its a matter of which you prefer.

My ideas is some products may be better than others in different areas of the vehicle---- like RB on the frame and they do stress less prep and compatibility with other paints so if I was choosing to go over old paint I would use that.

Some folks just oil spray and get good results from that--but I want pretty too!

I went back to the spot that peeled and tried to peel up some more from the edge and couldn't so maybe it was just the effect of the stripper I didn't go all the way round trying to destroy my hard work though! aint doing that

 

[Trollhole]

I've been using Rust Bullets for about 6 months now. I have only used the Black Shell product. From what I have been told it is just as good as the orginal stuff. Only prep I do is with a pressure washer. Then wait for it to dry and paint. Paint, wood, metal, plastic or anthing else doesn't matter. It will stick to it. Heck I painted grease that was on the frame and have no problems yet. I don't use a brush for the stuff. I spray it on. 1.6 gun I believe. Went on just fine. Solid as a rock. Comes out looking nice and glossy. In hindsight I'd brobably brush the corners and hidden spots and spray the rest. No issues with UV rays don't think they have those. No messing with prep. Ley it down and let it go.

 

[MarcoPolo]

Great Thread...
>>Will either of these 2 work well on the bottom of the fuel tank, after the rust bark is knocked off
and steel wooled?

 

[PabloCruise]

Is there a third major product besides RB and POR?

I think it is called Zero Rust - anyone use that?

 

[adamhagan]

zero rust

I have been contemplating Zero Rust vs POR15 and I really appreciate everyones experiences!

I have some body panels I have decided to cover with zero rust b/c they have multiple colors (tan to place under my dune beige), but I think POR 15 is superior for the frame and tub.

I am not planning on doing a frame off restoration for a couple of years, so does anyone have any advice on how to prep. the frame and tub?

Thanks,

Adam

 

[bsmith123]

prep

The problem with prepping without stripping down is getting it clean and sanded and it's hard to reach some places with the body on

I think if I wasn't going frame off i might use rustoleum stops rust or a similar spray product--gonna be a lot easier to reach everywhere plus if you do go frame off later it will be easier to remove than rust bullet or por15

clean it really well if you have it running then spray down the boxed part of the frame

clean it up some more at home with a brush and mineral spirits and a couple of scrapers to get rid of gunk and brush it with marine clean or simple green and hose clean

let it dry a day and blow out with air if you can, clean up the rust with a sm rust wheel and treat with naval jelly or acid

I let it dry than sand off the white residue from the acid and then blow it all out with air--finally wipe it down with acetone or rubbing alcohol and a rag.

then paint away.

Expect at least 10 times the work you imagined especially around the eng trans for grease. I like to work on a small area at a time and get it really good--then move on to the next.

how far you go is up to you, I am doing a frame off so I don't want to scrimp on prep or effort at this stage but you could just clean it really well and spray away, depends on how long you want it to last.


if you are planning a frame off later I would recommend steering clear of rustproofing--that's stuff is a pain to remove!

 

[shelfboy1]

we used por15 on a freinds jeep frame the frame was new .we cleaned prepped did it by the book and a year or less later its all coming off .called the factory and was told its for rusty stuff not brand new metal .the dealer never told us that and money was refunded but all that work is wasted.i am starting an fj40 so i dont know what im going to use good luck

 

[adamhagan]

I think I am going to cut out and replace rot/ and then prep really good for spraying with Zero rust. Thanks for all your suggestions.

 

[calsum2]

I coated my frame with por 15 five years ago and it held up perfectly. I have used it on many projects and have never had a issue. Prep is the key I love the stuff!

 

[asnatlas]

I know this is an old thread, but any updates ??

 

[jsosh26]

I know this is an old thread, but any updates ??

x2 on wondering...m prepping FJ40 tub for RB and wondering how much rust/paint to pull out verse leave for a bitter adhering surface....lots of post on POR over time....what about RB?

 

[1911]

Rust Bullet has stuck to everything I've put it on so far for 2-3 years, but I've not used it on any new metal.

 

[lostmarbles]

I posted in support of POR15 in this thread about 2 years ago and since then I have seen nothing to damage my confidence in the POR15 rust-treatment system.

A couple of minor rust bubbles did appear during this time in some areas of the chassis and bodypanels that I had done. But in each case I think the cause was my fault in leaving "active rust scabs" behind that the treatment had been unable to penetrate (and that I should have chipped-off beforehand). And these "bubble areas" were all successively touched up using the POR15 system .... never to bubble-up again.

 

[4david]

Updates to this ollddddddd thread?

 

[SteveH]

I applied Rustoleum Hammerite silver to a rusty ATV trailer floor at least a year ago, and it has been parked outside in Colorado's high-UV environment, and it looks pretty much like the day I applied it. $12/quart at Home Depot, available in silver and black, although the black will have a silvery metallic tone to it. I have used it on trailer hitches, etc. and it adheres well to rust and steel. Stir well, and follow directions closely - 2 coats are critical and the re-coat time window is unusual - very soon after the 1st coat, or days later. I simply won't pay $50/quart for any paint that isn't pretty and applied to body panels, so POR is not in the running for me.