afgman786
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Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Stumpalama
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I gave you a follow for your shameless plug
Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
- Thread starter
- #2,264
It's to test your trailer wiring and lighting. You plug the trailer into the switch system with the box connected to the battery.
What he said.
If the trailer has an onboard battery (for emergency braking if the trailer becomes disconnected from the tow rig) it can power the switches without the need for an external battery, assuming the onboard battery is charged and the circuit is ok.
Ed Im sorry, I can't like that box more than once.
Got the old 40 fired and rolling this weekend, I will be doing battery res-erection over the next few days, and getting the tail lights in and the old bumper back on.
Lazy me wants to get it back together enough to beat up on it some.....
Got the 2 fitty fired and moving, got the cobwebs out of the cab, and for some odd reasons there were several beer bottles in the bed.
Lazy me wants to get it back together enough to beat up on it some.....
Got the 2 fitty fired and moving, got the cobwebs out of the cab, and for some odd reasons there were several beer bottles in the bed.
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
Yesterday after working 12 hours I went to tackle what I thought would be an easy alternator swap on my es300. First time doing an alternator and started it at 1045pm. So at about a quarter past midnight in putting my tools away, up to almost my elbows in grease, alternator on and a nice snapped tensioner thanks to 19 years of rust induction 
So time to do it all over again but hopefully it'll only take an hour to get everything off, new tensioner on and button back up.
New reman vs. old Denso. Guessing it was the original as I don't think there is any documentation of a replacement having been done.
About a 1/4 of the way along...it was a lot dirtier after this.
Safety first & OSHA approved
Managed to do this too. Most annoying this is how conventional socket wrenches are too short so very tediously done by hand until enough clearance to squeeze air ratchet to get in there. Note that I don't mean down to crank, in this pic the wrench had slipped due to me barely holding the tail of it.
So time to do it all over again but hopefully it'll only take an hour to get everything off, new tensioner on and button back up.
New reman vs. old Denso. Guessing it was the original as I don't think there is any documentation of a replacement having been done.
About a 1/4 of the way along...it was a lot dirtier after this.
Safety first & OSHA approved
Managed to do this too. Most annoying this is how conventional socket wrenches are too short so very tediously done by hand until enough clearance to squeeze air ratchet to get in there. Note that I don't mean down to crank, in this pic the wrench had slipped due to me barely holding the tail of it.
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Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
- Thread starter
- #2,270
A rare earth magnet washer from HD or amazon looped onto a coat hanger or copper house wire is a great tool to keep handy.
Also, Amazon has a Gear Wrench set of long handle ratchets.
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
If this needs to be moved feel free to do so.
So today I got the reman replacement on, and after I got it on, while testing it any time a load (ac, lights, radio) was put on, it would dim. And then the battery light came on. It had smoked briefly as well when I first started it up.
I chock it up to being a junk unit and go exchange for another one (lifetime warranty amiright?).
Get the replacement replacement on, fired it up no problems. No lights, no shuddering under load (hi beams, ac, radio, dome light). However with multimeter on the battery, saw it drop from 14v down to 12.2v over the course of approximately 8 min. Drove it all of .75 mile at most and the rest was idling.
Never had any of these problems before we took it in to get new tires and some front end components. Coincidence? Lexuses aren't necessarily known for parasitic drains.
I'll be taking it to work in the morning (warrenton Autozone) and checking my battery there, assuming I don't get stranded on the way.
Any input is appreciated.
So today I got the reman replacement on, and after I got it on, while testing it any time a load (ac, lights, radio) was put on, it would dim. And then the battery light came on. It had smoked briefly as well when I first started it up.
I chock it up to being a junk unit and go exchange for another one (lifetime warranty amiright?).
Get the replacement replacement on, fired it up no problems. No lights, no shuddering under load (hi beams, ac, radio, dome light). However with multimeter on the battery, saw it drop from 14v down to 12.2v over the course of approximately 8 min. Drove it all of .75 mile at most and the rest was idling.
Never had any of these problems before we took it in to get new tires and some front end components. Coincidence? Lexuses aren't necessarily known for parasitic drains.
I'll be taking it to work in the morning (warrenton Autozone) and checking my battery there, assuming I don't get stranded on the way.
Any input is appreciated.
OTRAMM
Supporting Vendor
Did you charge the battery fully before installing the alternator? I forgot to charge one once and smoked a new alternator from apparently working it too hard right out of the gate. That was on a Chevy though. My guess is the real problem is the garbage quality of house brand remans. If you keep having issues get a Denso. The lifetime warranty auto parts are usually lifetime warranty not because they're great and last that long, but because they cost so little to build the store can just keep throwing new ones at you.
I got lucky, my battery came back with a solid 24 hours on the trikle.
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
Ugh. I didn't even think to put the battery on my trickle charger. Got in today and ran the electrical test twice, first time voltage regulator failed, second time it passed. At idle w no load except CD player it's running 13.6v.
I know our house brand units are junk but unfortunately I needed it right away and money is tight so discount helped. Go figure rock auto has a denso reman for almost the same price before shipping..
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Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
- Thread starter
- #2,275
Need some basic info. Let's do some voltage checks. Keep everything connected, no need to disconnect anything. Turn off all loads (headlights, blowers, etc.). Take voltage measurements at the battery posts not the clamps.
Step A: What is the battery voltage with the engine off? Should be about 12.5 +/-
Step B: What is the battery voltage with the engine running? After starting the engine let it run for a few minutes so the battery can recharge from the starting current drain before measuring the voltage. Should be about 14 +/-
Step C: What is the output voltage of the alternator? Measure positive at the output terminal and negative at the alternator housing. Typical is about 14.2 volts.
Step D: Measure the voltage between the battery negative post and the alternator housing. This will detect bad grounds between the alternator and battery. Should be a fraction of a volt.
Step E: Measure the voltage between the alternator positive output and the battery positive post. This will detect bad wiring between the battery and alternator. Should be a fraction of a volt.
Step F: If you have an external voltage regulator, measure the voltage between the alternator housing and the regulator housing/ground. This will detect bad grounds between the alternator & regulator. Should be a fraction of a volt.
Step G: Measure the voltage between the regulator housing/ground and the battery negative post. This will detect bad grounds between the regulator & battery. Should be a fraction of a volt.
Let me know what you get and then we can move on to the next step.
Step A: What is the battery voltage with the engine off? Should be about 12.5 +/-
Step B: What is the battery voltage with the engine running? After starting the engine let it run for a few minutes so the battery can recharge from the starting current drain before measuring the voltage. Should be about 14 +/-
Step C: What is the output voltage of the alternator? Measure positive at the output terminal and negative at the alternator housing. Typical is about 14.2 volts.
Step D: Measure the voltage between the battery negative post and the alternator housing. This will detect bad grounds between the alternator and battery. Should be a fraction of a volt.
Step E: Measure the voltage between the alternator positive output and the battery positive post. This will detect bad wiring between the battery and alternator. Should be a fraction of a volt.
Step F: If you have an external voltage regulator, measure the voltage between the alternator housing and the regulator housing/ground. This will detect bad grounds between the alternator & regulator. Should be a fraction of a volt.
Step G: Measure the voltage between the regulator housing/ground and the battery negative post. This will detect bad grounds between the regulator & battery. Should be a fraction of a volt.
Let me know what you get and then we can move on to the next step.
1MOA
SILVER Star
Know what I did today? My son and I Just went for a ride That’s it. Felt pretty good too
1MOA
SILVER Star
Runs damn good too.
I think today was the last day of sanding drywall compound in my guest bath reno. What a pain in the a$ss. Pretty sure I've fixed all my mistakes now. Sealer and primer in the morning then I'll reevaluate my work. I'll lay out tile after that and get started on the shower portion if I'm feeling frisky, but the weather is gonna be more conducive to replacing the LX470 radiator! Finally, some heat relief!
