Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks (2 Viewers)

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So, what do you suggest for my rig. I did a quick rust repair on the driver's side rocker panel and the freeborn red I got from my local paint store was not a good match, so now it looks horrible. But, that's just a detail. I don't have a lot of surface rust, but I do have a lot of severe oxidation. So do I CLR it and then BLO it????

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The bad repair. How do I get this to color match??? The freeborn red was way too light, this is Rustoleum red

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I'm not sure you're in the right thread. That paint looks like it'll buff out to a nice shiney red.
 
Well, I guess that's my question - and then what? What do I put on top of it? I'm not waxing my 40 every 6 months. And I don't want a shiny rig. I'm not a shiny guy. Once I cut the oxidation, what do I do?
 
I don't have an informed opinion, but I do have an opinion. I suggest try a small section with blo to see if you like it. I'd probably do the whole thing, it's not that time consuming.
 
Buff with what material?
 
Buff with what material?

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This is what I use but you will raise a shine. The orbital will likely pull out the red to match your repair.
 
Well. I've been distracted by many things and have not got back to this but here are a couple pics of my Cruiser after CLR on half the hood. (Driver's side has been scrubbed with CLR.) Seems like I don't need to do BLO. Just scrub the rust off as best I can then wax right? My paint is really in great shape other than the spots where rust is eating through and the paint chips or dents. So my main question is what is the best way to keep rust at bay where dents are and the paint is chipped. On the spots where the rust is eating through the body I'm going to CLR the a little fluid film.
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Thanks @wngrog What do you recommend for the rest of the rig where there is bare metal because of paint chips or dents or a couple edges where the paint is gone?
 
I have a Method that works for me ,

i simply put what ever it is in a Sealed Time Capsule to Preserve any Remaining Patina :)




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Thanks @wngrog What do you recommend for the rest of the rig where there is bare metal because of paint chips or dents or a couple edges where the paint is gone?
I use Penetrol on spots like that. It does dry unlike Fluid Film and will not stay greasy and attract dust. Get a quart of Penetrol at Lowes or Home Depot (or your local paint store). Pour a little in a cup and use a small brush to brush it on the surface rusted nicks and scratches. It will stop them from rusting further. You will have to re-apply every couple of years, but it works great.

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You know, I look for Penetrol at HomeDepot the other day and couldn't find it.
 
I just used Permatex on a project lately for the first time and it has changed to black and sealed the rust areas.

1995621
 
I use Penetrol on spots like that. It does dry unlike Fluid Film and will not stay greasy and attract dust. Get a quart of Penetrol at Lowes or Home Depot (or your local paint store). Pour a little in a cup and use a small brush to brush it on the surface rusted nicks and scratches. It will stop them from rusting further. You will have to re-apply every couple of years, but it works great.

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I need to get some experience with this. So many people love it.
 
You know, I look for Penetrol at HomeDepot the other day and couldn't find it.
In the paint section. It’s mostly used as a leveling agent for oil based paint.
 
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Putting Project Patina back together after a power steering install.

It’s amazing where Mud gets trapped in these things. I had it in pieces 3 years ago and treated everything but after some real world use and good care it still had trapped mud in the fenders and behind the bumper.

All got a fresh coat of my favorite agents and it’s about ready to ride again.
 
@roadstr6 I got some Penetrol. Should I put this on the little rusted spots like Knicks and dents and then wax the truck or the other way around?
 

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