I don’t think it will matter much. The penetrol takes a few days to totally dry, so don’t wax over it until it is dry. Even then, I’d avoid waxing the rusty spots just because wax will cake up in the rusty areas and look chalky.
Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter wngrog
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Thanks for the help guys. Here are some pics after the CLR scrub and then a good wash. My concern are some of these highly chipped areas from rocks and such. Not sure how to wax those areas without at least getting some wax in the chips. Should I cover the whole rig in Penetrol or just try to get the areas that have exposed metal? What should I use to apply the Penetrol? Thanks again.
Here’s what I would do if I were you. Wax the whole truck. Use any decent wax. I actually like Nu Finish. It’s cheap and available anywhere. Goes on and comes off easy. Get yourself a can of denatured alcohol and wipe the wax off the nicks and scratches. Just put a little on a rag and wipe each nick with the rag wrapped around your index finger. Finally, apply penetrol to the nicks and scratches with a hobby paint brush the same way you would use touch-up paint on any normal car. It will take a while, but you can feel confident that when you’re done, the rust will be stopped.
- Thread starter
- #165
Yeah you have good paint. Wax away.
Thanks everyone. I did a little waxing tonight. I was a little to aggressive with the scotch Brite pads though and there are small scratches all over the truck. Not bad but I'm wondering if there is something heavier then the regular wax I'm using I should try for buffing out the swirls. Any suggestions?
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
You could wetsand the scratches out. If you have a autobody jobber nearby, they will have wetsanding paper. Note: grits can vary between manufacturers. So just feel the grit and use your instincts. I'd probably start with P1000-P1500. Work your way up to P5000. Get a flexible foam pad. You can use a squirt bottle to keep the working area wet or just continuously dunk your paper in a pail of water. Hand sanding is safest.
Here's a couple pics of the lid I splattered with single stage and wetsanded.
Here's a couple pics of the lid I splattered with single stage and wetsanded.
- Thread starter
- #168
Yeah. The scotchbrite can be harsh on nice paint. The paint you have is real good compared to most people in this thread.
I use an orbital buffer and the yellow bottle of the polishing compound I linked above to strip and get small scratches.
I use an orbital buffer and the yellow bottle of the polishing compound I linked above to strip and get small scratches.
Wetsanding makes me nervous (irrational fear, maybe), I do my best to start with the least aggressive way to get the job done.
Post # 147:
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
Wetsanded a small section of hood. Should have taken a before photo, paint was dull and chalky. This is bare paint, not waxed yet.
Here is a before of the next section. You can see chalky paint from tape forward to the first section I wetsanded.
Started with Paint Jobber house brand P1500. Ended with 3M Trizact P5000.
window reflection on part not sanded and the sanded section
Here is a before of the next section. You can see chalky paint from tape forward to the first section I wetsanded.
Started with Paint Jobber house brand P1500. Ended with 3M Trizact P5000.
window reflection on part not sanded and the sanded section
- Thread starter
- #171
It’s amazing what you can get out of 40 year old paint. Great job.
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
Passenger door.
Upper reflection Before
after
lower reflection before
after
Paper not made in China
Upper reflection Before
after
lower reflection before
after
Paper not made in China
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Looking good!
Hey guys, I’m working on my very first cruiser with my dad. I am 16 years old 
. I have read your Goat thread @wngrog where I was inspired to have a nice Patina’d out cruiser with character. I recently acquired this 73’ from New Mexico with original paint that I think has great potential for a Patina look. I have read over your thread and I’m thinking a good wash, CLR Scrub, and rust converter on my rear sill and lower barn door sill is in order. Then a good wax and buff to bring out the shine. Let me know your thoughts.
Here are some pics of my truck:
. I have read your Goat thread @wngrog where I was inspired to have a nice Patina’d out cruiser with character. I recently acquired this 73’ from New Mexico with original paint that I think has great potential for a Patina look. I have read over your thread and I’m thinking a good wash, CLR Scrub, and rust converter on my rear sill and lower barn door sill is in order. Then a good wax and buff to bring out the shine. Let me know your thoughts.Here are some pics of my truck:
- Thread starter
- #175
Awesome. That blue is gonna pop.
- Thread starter
- #176
Giving Project Patina a fresh coat this morning. It takes less and less BLO to touch it up these days. The heavy rust areas have soaked in and stopped soaking but this temporary shine on the mottled paint always gives me a little chub.
smokeater
SILVER Star
So I noticed after I applied the rust converter it dried with a yellowish film. I could wipe most of it off with a damp rag but it left a yellowing affect on the surface paint. I’m going to take a bit of CLR to these areas and hope it comes out. Being as we have the same paint color, did you experience this with your applications? I know you reported a blacking in areas where the RC would convert rust beneath the paint, but this is a bit different.
If I do clean it up with CLR should I be cautious not to apply it to the converted areas...in essence damaging the protective properties the RC provides?
Many thanks,
Garrett
If I do clean it up with CLR should I be cautious not to apply it to the converted areas...in essence damaging the protective properties the RC provides?
Many thanks,
Garrett
- Thread starter
- #178
Yes. Once the Converter is in and set up, CLR it off the paint. It’s important to wash the CLR off too. I use a wet towel then I oil or wax the paint.
Wax is best if the paint is smooth but if it’s real rough, I like oil.
For example, my Pig hood. I keep the remaining OE paint waxed but oil the bare metal.
Wax is best if the paint is smooth but if it’s real rough, I like oil.
For example, my Pig hood. I keep the remaining OE paint waxed but oil the bare metal.
Im working on a 74 now that has great patina but also has some previous repair issues from the previous owner. Everything that appears red is some sort of primer to cover some of the bondo. They went buckwild and got a lot of it in spots that didnt need it. Any advice on removing it but not the factory blue underneath? Id be happy with just getting the red off and letting the metal do its rust thing.
My plan is to use Nolen's CLR method to remove all the oxidation from the paint and hopefully that will remove some of the red. I did a few test spots first and the CLR really brightens it up. Next is to use the rust converter once it comes in on the frame/undercarriage, but i dont plan on using it on the outer body. Its just too far gone to try and convert. Ill probably top it all off with the BLO as recommended in the first post.
Any clue where to get color matched spray paint to match the light blue? I may just have to cover some of it up to try and get it a cohesive color (plus the rust patina)
Thanks in advance.
Here is Lucille in all her glory.
My plan is to use Nolen's CLR method to remove all the oxidation from the paint and hopefully that will remove some of the red. I did a few test spots first and the CLR really brightens it up. Next is to use the rust converter once it comes in on the frame/undercarriage, but i dont plan on using it on the outer body. Its just too far gone to try and convert. Ill probably top it all off with the BLO as recommended in the first post.
Any clue where to get color matched spray paint to match the light blue? I may just have to cover some of it up to try and get it a cohesive color (plus the rust patina)
Thanks in advance.
Here is Lucille in all her glory.
- Thread starter
- #180
@dogfishlake and @Ben edwards are the strip masters.
