PNW 67 Patina Blue

[rainingagain]

Sorry, I should have circled the one I was referencing.

Cant compete. All I have are boxes and boxes of used elbows. This isn't even half.View attachment 3209637

I need this bad boy.

I think I spy a few in your stash.

I'll get some measurements of mine and post them.

 

[rainingagain]

Measurements.

@ToyotaMatt do you have a used one of these? If not, @65swb45 can I get one of yours?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Measurements.

View attachment 3210087

View attachment 3210088

View attachment 3210089

@ToyotaMatt do you have a used one of these? If not, @65swb45 can I get one of yours?

stand by ....

ill see , about coolant union now

your fuel pump looks TITE ...

but , you overlooked these ....


also , here is your Huckleberry Alternator adjust BAR COLLARS you require for running that 27020-60022 snappy litte DENSO 40A you have there going on ....

NOS OEM TOYOTA Mechanical FUEL PUMP & Glass Bowl Fuel Filters, and Carb. threaded Inlets ,qty x 2 Compression Nuts Qty x 2 Solid Brass Compression Ferrells , fits Early FJ25 , FJ40 1956- 1967 & Later some modles - VintageTEqParts.com

NOS OEM TOYOTA Glass Bowl Fuel Filter ,Compression Nuts and Brass Ferrell's 3 olives included 1 spare Mechanical FUEL...

vintageteqparts.com

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Measurements.

View attachment 3210087

View attachment 3210088

View attachment 3210089

@ToyotaMatt do you have a used one of these? If not, @65swb45 can I get one of yours?

All my pre-owned coolant fittings are still at my plater’s shop getting all sassed up again …

I will not have them back for at least a solid week still …

- so if you can wait kool , if not Mark / @65swb45 is your all things cooling system fittings source now ….

- he ONLY had solid pre-owned parts as well too ….fyi

- below is the path forward for your alternator adjust bar issue

- these are TOYOTA’s world famous now Disc, / NLA Washer SUB. ASSY. , Earthquake …

- they were on the non-microfiche paper parts cataloger system of general use service parts , there 4mm thick and have a M8 bolt hole

- if u require more then one only , u must step it up a notch to this longer top tap adjust lock down special service deep hex head bolt u see below

- idea : you arrange it so 1 earthquake washer on the outer or rear facing bar side , 2 or more you spec. In the middle between the lock down tab on the snappy DENSO -60022 and the inside or front facing side of the adjust bar …

Lots of tech 411 above , but this is the way …

Or

You can play the guess-how-thick-my-collar needs to be game on the water pump adjust bar side M10 bolt hole size spec. ?

- I can tell you that finding a single M10 thick wall deep collar like the various more than a few size specs. that land cruisers had going on over the years 1962-1992 F , 2F 3F carb. is not a easy task …

So those are your options as I see them ….

Also , simply stacking a pile of M10 common flat washers on the pump side is ill advised …

Unless you do indeed have the original or NOS longer factory DISC. NLA optional water pump bolt for that specific location ?

- if u use the shorter ones like the other 3 are , your 2-3 spins of M1.5 coarse thread pitch will give and pull out when the correct FSM newton meters torque yield is applied …

- I have made that amateur hour mistake in my past , I will let Mark explain how he would approach a needed block face pulled female threads repair there ….

- NOT is my thought on that topic …

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Sorry, I should have circled the one I was referencing.



I need this bad boy.

View attachment 3209784

I think I spy a few in your stash.

View attachment 3209785

I'll get some measurements of mine and post them.

curious ?

why could you not use this NOS OEM super-tower style hose bib , simply CLOCK or rotate , the male threaded water pump by-pass hose bib port fitting from 6pm to say 9pm or its perceived 4pm to 7pm say , in standard threads clock wise rotation , and then simply install said super-tower fitting 5/8 hose bib port exactly directed at the side valve cover heater hose as is and achieve exactly what your trying to do with a complex array of many fittings , now using only 2 ....

the less is more factory focus points mind set approach could indeed be applied here , all JAPAN Spec. parts all the time as well skool of thought too to boot !

- this would be my chosen path , if faced with such a multi-options multi-parts semi-complex scenario such as you have going on here ?

- is there a right answer here in the end ?

- as long as you make a all OEM parts one in the end , then hell yes there is .....


my thoughts ....



i have seen many , like SOLID MUD buddie @Green Bean / mark struggle through this same exact issue last year , he may have some unique insight here to add ......

 

[MDH33]

Are there 2 shutoffs on the 67? That pic has the one on the head like my '69, but the other on the water pump seems redundant. On my 69, that hose to the firewall attaches to the lower radiator hose with no shutoff.

 

[Cruiser Cult]

Are there 2 shutoffs on the 67? That pic has the one on the head like my '69, but the other on the water pump seems redundant. On my 69, that hose to the firewall attaches to the lower radiator hose with no shutoff.

Some parts schematics do indeed show two shutoffs! On my 65 I too have one shut off on the head and no shut off on the return at the lower radiator hose pipe. But there are parts diagrams that show a shut off valve at the lower pipe as well. My 64/65 rig did not originally come with a heater from the factory and one was added later at the dealer I believe.

 

[rainingagain]

Some parts schematics do indeed show two shutoffs! On my 65 I too have one shut off on the head and no shut off on the return at the lower radiator hose pipe. But there are parts diagrams that show a shut off valve at the lower pipe as well. My 64/65 rig did not originally come with a heater from the factory and one was added later at the dealer I believe.

Are there 2 shutoffs on the 67? That pic has the one on the head like my '69, but the other on the water pump seems redundant. On my 69, that hose to the firewall attaches to the lower radiator hose with no shutoff.

It really is silly. From many of the pics and diagrams that I have looked at, there are 2 shut off valves. The one on the head and another either like @Cruiser Cult's where the shutoff is on the coolant pipe or like mine where it's mounted on the water pump bypass.

 

[rainingagain]

curious ?

why could you not use this NOS OEM super-tower style hose bib , simply CLOCK or rotate , the male threaded water pump by-pass hose bib port fitting from 6pm to say 9pm or its perceived 4pm to 7pm say , in standard threads clock wise rotation , and then simply install said super-tower fitting 5/8 hose bib port exactly directed at the side valve cover heater hose as is and achieve exactly what your trying to do with a complex array of many fittings , now using only 2 ....

the less is more factory focus points mind set approach could indeed be applied here , all JAPAN Spec. parts all the time as well skool of thought too to boot !

- this would be my chosen path , if faced with such a multi-options multi-parts semi-complex scenario such as you have going on here ?

- is there a right answer here in the end ?

- as long as you make a all OEM parts one in the end , then hell yes there is .....


my thoughts ....



i have seen many , like SOLID MUD buddie @Green Bean / mark struggle through this same exact issue last year , he may have some unique insight here to add ......


View attachment 3210867View attachment 3210868


View attachment 3210869

This post and @MDH33's comment got me thinking. I'm over complicating this. I don't need the second shutoff valve. I did have one of those fittings that @Skreddy suggested so I played around with the fittings I had. I landed on this. Clears the rad hose and the heater hose orients nicely. I"ll see if I can get it plumed up tonight.

 

[65swb45]

I think you made a good call there.

 

[rainingagain]

I was able to beat that dang alternator bracket back into place.

Buuuuuuuuuuut I didn't have a belt at the time when I was test fitting. So when I tightened everything up, it was still out a bit. Before I cleaned this up, I noticed that there was still some original gloss black paint so I painted it. I didn't want to ruin my paint so I had to stack a few washers.

I wish I had some of those thick Mr T washers. The really early hardware seems so much beefy-er.

@ToyotaMatt I do indeed have that longer bolt!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

am i seeing a illusion or does your drive belt all catty-wompus ?

 

[65swb45]

am i seeing a illusion or does your drive belt all catty-wompus ?

Wait! What? With all your mis-spelled words, you spelled catty-wompus right? What’s up with that!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Wait! What? With all your mis-spelled words, you spelled catty-wompus right? What’s up with that!

i have risen to the level of your full TEq apprentice , only because of your teachings master .......

 

[65swb45]

i have risen to the level of your full TEq apprentice , only because of your teachings master .......

Something doesn’t look right about that left front motor mount insulator.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Something doesn’t look right about that left front motor mount insulator.

that's a FJ55 that's master ......

 

[65swb45]

that's a FJ55 that's master ......

40s and 55s used the same front cushions. And those cushions have steel plates bonded to both sides. The one in your pic does not appear to have steel plates. And it looks thicker than stock.

 

[middlecalf]

Looks like a big hunk o’ rubber

And no hyphen, wamp not womp Definition of CATTYWAMPUS - https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/cattywampus

 

[rainingagain]

am i seeing a illusion or does your drive belt all catty-wompus ?

Probably the camera angle. Everything looks ok from what I can tell but I'll do some more double eagle eye looks and take some measurements.

i have risen to the level of your full TEq apprentice , only because of your teachings master .......

Is this some magical adjustment kit that you stock?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Probably the camera angle. Everything looks ok from what I can tell but I'll do some more double eagle eye looks and take some measurements.



Is this some magical adjustment kit that you stock?

camera angle can play tricks on ones mind for sure , use a machinist's straight edge and or carpenters large framing square to confirm and verify ALL 3 V-GROOVE pulley bays are in-sync with one another , and all plumb , level and square everything details wise , because this matters greatly , it sure indeed looks like that current V-Belt is sitting out of square on the alternator pulley in the your photo i have reposted below ?

the whole wide range topic of the water pump changing of the guard here , lends some suspicion to the image too ....

only @65swb45 would know for certain if the water pump projection depth is different between the original 16100-60010 and the later 16100-60080 pump you have installed now ?


i can say for certain , that the off-set V-GROOVE pulley style you have going on with that snappy little 40A 27020-60022 is something i have Never seen before ?

the OEM Part # 27020-60020 Genuine NipponDenso is a factory Land Cruiser alternator , however i cannot find ANY application info on it except :

the 60020 , directly supersedes to a 27020-61110 and then to a updated 27020-61150 , both of which are exclusively a NON-USA 3F Carb. late modle Land Cruiser 60 , 62 and 70 series application ....

non sure all this matters or ?

nut would explain the mystery pulley topic i see here for sure ....


please take a moment and post the CAST RELIEF part number stamped on face of the pulley ...

i can reverse SKUNK-WORKS it and report back anything relevant here on that detail ?