pilot bearing removal... (1 Viewer)

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Pin_Head said:
The 39 cent carriage bolt puller gets most of them out before you can even start wiping all the grease off of your face.

PilotPul.jpg


A carbide burr in a pneumatic die grinder will cut through the race fast if it resists all other methods.


This method has worked flawlessly many times over. The hydraulic method was hit and miss, and was usually another mess to clean up!
 
ranger said:
This method has worked flawlessly many times over. The hydraulic method was hit and miss, and was usually another mess to clean up!


x2 pin head is the man with this one
 
I just like to say I used the carrige bolt method on a VERY pesky pilot bearing and it got it out. It took several passes to get it out but it did what a pilot bearing rental tool couldn't

Thanks again for the tip. now on to rebuilding my 3 speed tranny
 
I spent about 30 min this morning trying to get that blasted pilot bearing out. a quick search on mud saved me a ton of frustration...... .73 cents later and I had my Mud-Pilot bearing puller...

Mud search = FREE
Long bolt washer and nut.... .73
5 min removal of pesky pilot bearing....PRICELESS!

Thanks guys. Here is a pick of my puller

DCP_3903.jpg


DCP_3904.jpg
 
I spent about 30 min this morning trying to get that blasted pilot bearing out. a quick search on mud saved me a ton of frustration...... .73 cents later and I had my Mud-Pilot bearing puller...

Mud search = FREE
Long bolt washer and nut.... .73
5 min removal of pesky pilot bearing....PRICELESS!


73 cents? You got ripped off. Mine was just 39 cents.
 
Doncha love it? So sweet.
 
Last edited:
The 39 cent carriage bolt puller gets most of them out before you can even start wiping all the grease off of your face.

PilotPul.jpg


A carbide burr in a pneumatic die grinder will cut through the race fast if it resists all other methods.

This was what I was gonna suggest. I have the OTC puller, so no worries, but for those that don't, this or the slap hammer as Poser mentions with similar end works fine. The slap hammer and same edge also work wonders on my hardtop rain gutter when a tree pushes it in. A few light taps and the gutter is good as new (well almost).

Forget the grease method. I've never seen that work. Every time I've done that or seen it tried, all it did was blow out the bearing cover, and splat grease on my glasses.
 
Well, here I go waking up a dormant thread... But I'm bored and reading through every single thing in the FAQ.

I've only once not had the puller method work. That bearing also didn't work with the grease.

But there is another way.... bread.

That's right, bread. Basically, it's just like the grease method, but use plain old bread instead. Use squishy white bread, or the insides of hamburger buns. The crusts are too hard to squish through the hole in the pilot bearing. But just push bread in there, then tap it with a bolt (just like the grease method).

On my 2LT-E, I was able to get three buns back there, but the bread did the trick (after the slide hammer type puller failed, the grease failed, and the dedicated pilot bearing removal tool failed). When you're done, the bread is REALLY compacted back there, but on the plus side the inside of the crank is spick and span!

Besides, it's really cool to steal a loaf of bread to get the pilot bearing out. I haven't even bothered trying any of the other methods since I learned that trick, it's just too fun!

Dan
 
74fj40, I work at Castle Rock Imports off of Meadows Parkway, try to get it to me Ill get it out. Leave me some $$ for collateral and you can borrow my pilot bearing puller.
 
This method has worked flawlessly many times over. The hydraulic method was hit and miss, and was usually another mess to clean up!

I just used the homemade pilot bearing puller method and it worked great! What would I do without MUD?
 
I just used the homemade pilot bearing puller method and it worked great! What would I do without MUD?
Didn't work for me. My bearing was nothing much more then a race and smooth as the inside wall of the crank so there was nothing to catch on. I had to cut what was left with a dremel. It was not pretty.:rolleyes:
 
That's funny Dan. I am actually going to try this bread method, but I will have a carriage bolt on standby just in case.

Jeremy
 
Just so everyone knows, the bread method worked flawlessly. The carriage bolt did not work for me. Was a big PITA, and took way longer to get everything set up.

Stuffed it full of bread, used a 3/8" extension with electrical tape wrapped around it for a seal and drove it in. Popped right out. I wrapped a layer of tape sticky side out first so that the extension would act as a plunger when hit and the tape would stay sealed around the bearing. I had to pull it out once and stuff more bread in to get it all the way out, but it worked great. Never would have had thought. And easy clean up too.

Thanks
Jeremy
 
"Leveraging" off the .39 cent carriage bolt idea....

Instead of a socket, use the hole in a crowbar / prybar. It rests perfectly on the raised flywheel alignment ring on the crank.

Tighten, Leverage it out. Took 5 minutes to make the bolt, and 15 sec to pull the bearing.

Yesterday - it wouldn't budge.

PS. Shoot some PB Blaster in there first. That probably helped too.

pilot_removal_tool_1.JPG

pilot_removal_tool_2.JPG

Rocky
pilot_removal_tool_1.JPG
pilot_removal_tool_2.JPG
 
On my last 2f i did one very much like the carraige bolt, but this is how it went. I took a hex head bolt that wouldnt quite fit in the hole 'head first'. First i ground it to round or close to it. then with the bolt vertical, 'heads up' in my vise, I cut a kerf with a hacksaw about 3/4 of an inch deep, down the length through the head of the bolt. Next I hacksawed a quick wedge, like in a hammer head, off a piece of scrap bar stock. It went from zero to maybe 3/16 or 1/4 at the thick end and was about an inch long. Simple so far... I set the wedge finger tight in the saw kerf and inserted the rounded bolt head through the center of the pilot bearing. Protecting the threads with a nut, I drove the bolt home into the bore of the crank with a brass hammer. The wedge, bottoming out, was driven deep into the bolt head, and expanded it very nicely behind the bearing. I then used the same socket and nut routine as the guys mentioned here. Us woodworkers call that routine a 'blind trunnel'.
 
Just so everyone knows, the bread method worked flawlessly. The carriage bolt did not work for me. Was a big PITA, and took way longer to get everything set up.

Yup, meetoo. Try it, its about the only thing white bread is good for! I had to pack it once more after it came out part way and made more space for more bread, but just a few whacks with a hammer and out it comes.

cheers
Mark...
 

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