Which did you choose for your frame? And why? I'm leaning towards a chassis paint for ease of touch-up. But powder coat sure looks slick. Quoted $400.00 locally to sandblast and powder coat the frame.
Paint, POR-15, or Powder Coat
- Thread starter tstepp920
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if you are going to pay someone to do something to your frame, do something to the frame that will really last...galvanize it.
in my option while powder coating is normally the cats meow in the coating world, unless you actually take the frame apart you are not going to get a good pc job where you need a good job the most....inside the frame rails.
in my option while powder coating is normally the cats meow in the coating world, unless you actually take the frame apart you are not going to get a good pc job where you need a good job the most....inside the frame rails.
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I called a shop that does galvanizing about an hour away. They didn't return my call so I moved on. What does galvanizing cost? What difficulties arise when you try to apply a finish
I am almost through metalwork on my build and elected to have the frame blasted, ecoat dipped and top coated with an industrial urethane implement paint. I was going to pc it but thankfully I chose paint as it needs to get touch-up from the bodywork. If I were going to do it again, I'd wait until the bodywork were done and then finish the frame while the tub was off for paint. Powder is a great option, if I were going to drive it alot, galvanizing and topcoat would be my choice.
nothing arises, you rattle can it black and never look back.
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Cost?
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"...drive it a lot" YES. ....hunting, camping, fishing, you name it
Having many things on my vehicle powder coated, I'm extremely glad I did not have my frame done. I have made too many modifications to it during the build. I honestly think powder coating scratches too easily, and apparently, once its scratched, the metal is not encapsulated any more so it is much more vulnerable.
I did POR15 after sand blasting. It is extremely durable. I did a light coat of semi gloss on top for UV protection. I'd do it this way 10x over.
I did POR15 after sand blasting. It is extremely durable. I did a light coat of semi gloss on top for UV protection. I'd do it this way 10x over.
Imron industrial paint gets my vote. I figured if it's good enough for planes and locomotives it should work good for our 40's.
Should be able to get it at most industrial paint stores. It also can be brushed or sprayed.
Should be able to get it at most industrial paint stores. It also can be brushed or sprayed.
I have never been a huge fan of powder coating -- at least for the applications/environments I am using the items in. It always seems to flake off/rust underneath way before paint would. I drive a 1997 Dodge Ram 2500 pickup and installed an industrial powder coated front bumper assembly less than 10 years ago -- probably 80% rusty and 20% "coating" left on it at this point.
That is why I chose to POR-15 my frame -- figured it would last my lifetime, I could do the painting myself, and could not find a galvanizer in my area to chase after that option.
That is why I chose to POR-15 my frame -- figured it would last my lifetime, I could do the painting myself, and could not find a galvanizer in my area to chase after that option.
One thing I have learned in asking questions like this and researching....there is no right answer. One guy will claim method 1 works best while guy 2 says no this, guy 3 says yet another.
I honestly think no matter what method you choose, what matters most is properly prepping the surface.
It also comes down to what you can find option wise. I searched for a galvanize company and havent had much luck. Theres tons around me but most wont do frames. The one that said they would said the frame had to already be cleaned and brought to them and they would reject it if it had any grease or debris at all. I also have tried to find the e-coat like jdc1 did but havent had much luck there either.
Around me sand blasting and powder coating is popular and theres a lot of outfits doing. Lots of marine applications who take the side projects kind of companies. I dont have to worry about the salt like the east coast does so that is probably the route i will go. Or POR15 i havent decided quite yet. Even with powder coating i have found touching it up with spray paint works well. My truck's skid plates and rock sliders are powder coated and i just touch them up with spray paint every so often. I use a rust convertor just cause i might as well. It doesnt match 100% but you really have to be within a foot or two and be looking to notice.
I honestly think no matter what method you choose, what matters most is properly prepping the surface.
It also comes down to what you can find option wise. I searched for a galvanize company and havent had much luck. Theres tons around me but most wont do frames. The one that said they would said the frame had to already be cleaned and brought to them and they would reject it if it had any grease or debris at all. I also have tried to find the e-coat like jdc1 did but havent had much luck there either.
Around me sand blasting and powder coating is popular and theres a lot of outfits doing. Lots of marine applications who take the side projects kind of companies. I dont have to worry about the salt like the east coast does so that is probably the route i will go. Or POR15 i havent decided quite yet. Even with powder coating i have found touching it up with spray paint works well. My truck's skid plates and rock sliders are powder coated and i just touch them up with spray paint every so often. I use a rust convertor just cause i might as well. It doesnt match 100% but you really have to be within a foot or two and be looking to notice.
did the POR15 thing on my 40 ... have heard good things about RustBullet ... I religously do the maintenance thing every yr i.e. wire brush and touchup with POR15 on the FJC and the 40 ... it has paid off ...
PoR 15 will cost you, maybe, $60.00 plus the clothes you ruin. It will never peel, flake, chip or rust. Down side besides your work clothes, any part of your skin that POR 15 touches will be black for a few days. Can't wash it off. Have to wait for dead skin sells to carry it away down the drain. Powder coat on the other hand, is great for high budget, Saturday afternoon car show projects. And lawn furniture. Powder coat is not magic: it is powdered vinyl. When it chips, and it will if you actually use your truck, look out.
POR 15 all the way. that stuff is indestructible. i cant wait to finish the rest of my frame with it this winter. it must be properly prepped exactly how they want
POR-15 for my 40's frame...very happy.
Did it in 1998...shared DD with my 60, lots of off roading...no rust, flakes or peeling.
Lots of work to get it done, but well worth it.
John
Did it in 1998...shared DD with my 60, lots of off roading...no rust, flakes or peeling.
Lots of work to get it done, but well worth it.
John
There is a galvanizing company in Burlington, NC. If I were going to do my 40, I would let them acid dip it then galvanize and maybe paint over the galvanizing.
POR-15 is a band aid. It's useful for frame-on restorations when you can't blast the frame separately or just don't want to spend the money to do it right.
Galvanizing is wonderful, but you have to follow Very specific guidelines in how and when you paint it.
Powder is great, but concerns have been previously mentioned in this thread.
If you have the frame off the vehicle, you can't beat blasting and then applying epoxy primer and paint.
Bottom line, there's no substitution for proper surface prep and coating application. A coating applied over rust is never going to be as effective as a coating applied over a properly prepared surface.
Galvanizing is wonderful, but you have to follow Very specific guidelines in how and when you paint it.
Powder is great, but concerns have been previously mentioned in this thread.
If you have the frame off the vehicle, you can't beat blasting and then applying epoxy primer and paint.
Bottom line, there's no substitution for proper surface prep and coating application. A coating applied over rust is never going to be as effective as a coating applied over a properly prepared surface.
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I agree galvenizing sounds like a good option for a frame. I don't know how much it costs though.
For the inside of my boxed frame I used a pot gun with a long wand. I pour over rust (POR-15). I ended up using a 2 part epoxy called Hardnose on the exterior of my frame. It was made by the makers of POR-15. It is costly to buy. I believe they changed the name to 2K Urethane. It dries to a very hard gloss. I do believe it doesn't dry brittle like powder paint. It's tough as sh*t and doesn't scrape of easy like rattlecan paint. It was tricky for me to apply with an HVLP gun. Proper thinning and gun setup are crutial.
Here's another option:I've read on mud that a company called Southern Polyeurethanes (SPI) makes a quality 2 part epoxy automotive paint. I am under the impression it's not high priced like POR-15 products. I went with Hardnose because it was easy to get.
Best of luck
For the inside of my boxed frame I used a pot gun with a long wand. I pour over rust (POR-15). I ended up using a 2 part epoxy called Hardnose on the exterior of my frame. It was made by the makers of POR-15. It is costly to buy. I believe they changed the name to 2K Urethane. It dries to a very hard gloss. I do believe it doesn't dry brittle like powder paint. It's tough as sh*t and doesn't scrape of easy like rattlecan paint. It was tricky for me to apply with an HVLP gun. Proper thinning and gun setup are crutial.
Here's another option:I've read on mud that a company called Southern Polyeurethanes (SPI) makes a quality 2 part epoxy automotive paint. I am under the impression it's not high priced like POR-15 products. I went with Hardnose because it was easy to get.
Best of luck