Build My New 1997 Toyota Toyoace - 3L Powered and Soon to be Turbo

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UZJ40

UZJ40

OEM(ish)
10 Year
Joined
Aug 8, 2011
Threads
242
Messages
2,565
Location
LV, NV
Picked up one of my dream trucks - 1997 Toyoace.

Most of these that make it to the US are red because they are ex-fire trucks. The ex-fire trucks also usually don't have A/C, which is a must for me here in Vegas. I was lucky to find this one -

20250924_172749.webp


I flew to Indianapolis, IN and drove it back home. It was definitely an adventure! It took about 30 hours of driving, but made it back without any issues.

First mod was sticker removal and tinted windows -

20251002_180359.webp


20251002_180344.webp


Next, small torsion bar lift, 2" blocks in the rear, and 31" MT's. Also added a platform roof rack -

20251012_115020.webp


20251012_115008.webp


Now that it definitely looks more like an off road vehicle and less like a landscape truck, its time to address the power. I'd like to turbo it within the next month or so, so I'm going to start ordering parts. They don't have a kit for this truck, so I'll be doing it myself (probably would anyway, even if a kit was available!)

It looks like this is the most widely available aftermarket manifold -

spaturbousa.com

Toyota Hilux 2.8D / 3.0D (3L / 5L Engine) T25 turbo manifold

Turbo Manifolds for Audi, BMW, Ford, GM, Honda, Mazda, MItsubushi, Nissan, Tiburon, Toyota, Volvo and more car brands. Check it out here!
spaturbousa.com spaturbousa.com

It keeps the turbo back to the rear of the engine, allowing me to keep the AC compressor.

I'd like to purchase a new turbo rather than used, so I thought this one looked like a good option. -

Garrett Motion

shop-us.garrettmotion.com shop-us.garrettmotion.com

If anybody could give me input on the standard VS .80 compressor A/R, I would appreciate it. They are about the same price. Or any other T25 turbo that would work well with this setup. Also, it says its for 170-270hp, and I'm well below that. But if I go any smaller, I'm smaller than a T25 housing, so I'd need an adaptor for that manifold, which I'd rather not have to use.

I'm aiming for 12-14 psi. I plan on doing whatever I can to keep engine temps, engine bay temps, and EGT temps down.

I will probably do an air/water intercooler with remote mount radiator under the bed. I also plan on using a boost compensator from a factory 2LTE setup.

I have put turbos on a few vehicles, but all gas, never diesel. I'll be leaning on the MUD diesel crowd for help with this one! Especially @GTSSportCoupe !!

Thanks for following along!
 
UZJ40 said:
Now that it definitely looks more like an off road vehicle and less like a landscape truck, its time to address the power. I'd like to turbo it within the next month or so, so I'm going to start ordering parts. They don't have a kit for this truck, so I'll be doing it myself (probably would anyway, even if a kit was available!)
Click to expand...
Its a lovely truck!

I am unconvinced the L Series Engines take a turbo nicely... as long as you're prepared for it to end in tears then all good. Maybe pre-emptively source a replacement head and OEM gasket and store it - just in case.
 
duncanrm said:
Its a lovely truck!

I am unconvinced the L Series Engines take a turbo nicely... as long as you're prepared for it to end in tears then all good. Maybe pre-emptively source a replacement head and OEM gasket and store it - just in case.
Click to expand...

Eurasiaoverland said:
The author of this thread blew up a very nice example: Turbo advice for 3L camper cabover rig - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/turbo-advice-for-3l-camper-cabover-rig.1336873/

Not just a cracked head, but a wrecked bottom end.

I would live with the slowness, or put a better suited engine in. The bigger Toyoaces got engines like the 14B and 15B which I can recommend. Otherwise the driving experience will be watching gauges waiting for the inevitable.
Click to expand...
I do understand there is significant risk involved.

Here are my thoughts -

I believe the thread you are referring to is this one - Toyota 2L 3L 5L Turbo Install in Cabover Truck - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/toyota-2l-3l-5l-turbo-install-in-cabover-truck.1329114/page-4#post-15976247

He was not running a boost compensator, using a post turbo egt, and was sucking hot air next to his turbo manifold into the filter. I believe there are some things he could have done better to prolong the life. Also, his motor is a 2L. I know the 2L has more head issues and he wrecked his bottom end. Here is his intake, for example -

IMG_3759.webp


It seems there are a few kits for 3L motors in the Hilux, and they seem fairly popular in Australia. The HD Automotive kit seems pretty solid without a lot of negative reviews or press.

This truck is for around town only. It will never be taken on road trips. Most drives will be 30 minutes or less. I live just on the outskirts of town, so coming home each day, there is about a 4 mile steep grade coming up the highway. I could maintain 65-70mph when I first got the truck. Now, with 31" tires, it will do about 55 with the AC off, 50 with the AC on. I'm really just wanting to turbo it to get it back to where it was before the larger tires. So maybe only running 8-10 psi will do that... I'm not sure.

I'm no stranger to motor swaps. I think I'd rather run boost for a few years on this and plan out a motor swap for it if/when it fails. If I'm going to put a 14 or 15b in the future anyway, seems I might as well run this til it dies, then do the swap. Otherwise I'll just be pulling out a working 3L to swap something else in.

Anyway, thanks for the feedback. I really do appreciate it. I love the truck, it's just way underpowered, which I knew it would be going into it. There are guys like @GTSSportCoupe with happily turbo'd L engines driving around, so I'd love to join the crowd as safely as possible.
 
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To those who have not already bought one of these, I'd also recommend the heavier duty ones with a larger direct injection diesel. Personally I've been drooling over the 15FTE and N04C ones as a possible replacement for my LJ78 eventually. I guess they're more expensive, but so is a turbo setup purchase for the light duty Dyna. Maybe people don't want to deal with dually rear end of the heavier units too.

But that said, the light duty ones seem a lot more obtainable and common. The L series motors can be okay with the right care and attention. Even with a turbo. Number one most important thing, is get rid of EGR (especially the throttle plate in the intake manifold). I believe this is the number one killer of L engines. Turboing is okay, as long as you have good exhaust, intercooler and a lean tune. Watch the gauges, and slow down with heavy loads in hot weather. Remember the N/A engines 2L/3L/5L have higher compression ratio and lighter duty pistons.

The L series will always keep you on edge in hot weather with high loads. No doubt about it!

I think your engine (1997) might have the later model improved cylinder head. So you're off to a good start. With a smart turbo setup and careful driving, the head should be good for a long time yet.
 
GTSSportCoupe said:
To those who have not already bought one of these, I'd also recommend the heavier duty ones with a larger direct injection diesel. Personally I've been drooling over the 15FTE and N04C ones as a possible replacement for my LJ78 eventually. I guess they're more expensive, but so is a turbo setup purchase for the light duty Dyna. Maybe people don't want to deal with dually rear end of the heavier units too.

But that said, the light duty ones seem a lot more obtainable and common. The L series motors can be okay with the right care and attention. Even with a turbo. Number one most important thing, is get rid of EGR (especially the throttle plate in the intake manifold). I believe this is the number one killer of L engines. Turboing is okay, as long as you have good exhaust, intercooler and a lean tune. Watch the gauges, and slow down with heavy loads in hot weather. Remember the N/A engines 2L/3L/5L have higher compression ratio and lighter duty pistons.

The L series will always keep you on edge in hot weather with high loads. No doubt about it!

I think your engine (1997) might have the later model improved cylinder head. So you're off to a good start. With a smart turbo setup and careful driving, the head should be good for a long time yet.
Click to expand...
I would agree with you that the larger motor is a better starting point, but I do want a lighter duty vehicle. I wanted a single rear axle, and 4x4 was a must.

Looking at my engine bay today, I did see a couple EGR related things, but I didn't see a throttle body or the hard tube that goes from exhaust to intake manifold. Am I missing it? Was it market specific?

Here are a couple pictures -

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20251015_161918.webp


20251015_161925.webp
 
On the 3L, I believe the throttle butterfly was only fitted to some high end JDM Hiaces. I think it's there mostly to reduce NVH so hence not fitted to the more utilitarian-oriented platforms.

Moreover, I don't see an EGR system on there at all, though it could be obstructed by the very tight engine bay.
 
Eurasiaoverland said:
On the 3L, I believe the throttle butterfly was only fitted to some high end JDM Hiaces. I think it's there mostly to reduce NVH so hence not fitted to the more utilitarian-oriented platforms.

Moreover, I don't see an EGR system on there at all, though it could be obstructed by the very tight engine bay.
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Thank you for that info!
 
Looks like you're lucky with no emissions equipment. But type your vin into megazip and check for sure in the drawings.
 
UZJ40 said:
Next, small torsion bar lift, 2" blocks in the rear, and 31" MT's. Also added a platform roof rack -
Click to expand...
Regarding the torsion bar lift, did you just tighten existing to raise? Or did you replace torsion bars?
I've got a '97 Dyna with the same engine and had a pretty good tire rub initially. Any upgrade info you have would be appreciated.
 
Great looking truck.

Regarding the turbo. MHI turbos (and their clones) spool faster and work better on diesel than most of the Garrett range. Petrol ricers are more Garrett suitable. You will want to drop your boost and power expectations. The 3L doesn't have a hardened crank and will chew itself up with that much boost. Keep boost to single digits, tune with an A/F guage if possible (EGT is a backup) and you'll get about 30% more power.
 
GTSSportCoupe said:
Looks like you're lucky with no emissions equipment. But type your vin into megazip and check for sure in the drawings.
Click to expand...

Thank you, I believe you are correct, no emissions equipment on this truck!

Shyrock said:
Regarding the torsion bar lift, did you just tighten existing to raise? Or did you replace torsion bars?
I've got a '97 Dyna with the same engine and had a pretty good tire rub initially. Any upgrade info you have would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

I used the factory bars and tightened the nut. I did have to re-index both bars because I ran out of travel before getting a 2" lift. I'm happy with the outcome, and I don't notice any camber or steering issues.

Dougal said:
Great looking truck.

Regarding the turbo. MHI turbos (and their clones) spool faster and work better on diesel than most of the Garrett range. Petrol ricers are more Garrett suitable. You will want to drop your boost and power expectations. The 3L doesn't have a hardened crank and will chew itself up with that much boost. Keep boost to single digits, tune with an A/F guage if possible (EGT is a backup) and you'll get about 30% more power.
Click to expand...

Great advice! I do plan on having an EGT and wideband o2 sensor. I'm fine with 8-10 psi if that would be a safer boost level. I'm curious if I'd even need an intercooler at that low of boost, but happy to run one either way.

Regarding the MHI turbos - do you have a model or size in mind that would work well with the 3L? I browsed a bit, but nothing caught my eye. I think you're the first person I've heard not speak highly of Garrett. I thought they were the industry standard, but I have a lot to learn still.

Thanks again!
 
td04l-13t
and if you are ordering new from mamba (ok) or kinugawa (better) then you can spec it out with specific manifold flange and wheels you want
 
Shyrock said:
Regarding the torsion bar lift, did you just tighten existing to raise? Or did you replace torsion bars?
I've got a '97 Dyna with the same engine and had a pretty good tire rub initially. Any upgrade info you have would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
X-Sway PN 1627 fit my 1994 LH85 Hiace Truck, I bet you could use the same ones. They are a lot stiffer than stock.
 
Dougal said:
Great looking truck.

Regarding the turbo. MHI turbos (and their clones) spool faster and work better on diesel than most of the Garrett range. Petrol ricers are more Garrett suitable. You will want to drop your boost and power expectations. The 3L doesn't have a hardened crank and will chew itself up with that much boost. Keep boost to single digits, tune with an A/F guage if possible (EGT is a backup) and you'll get about 30% more power.
Click to expand...
Would you recommend I run a 2LTE boost compensator with a lower boost level? Or any other sort of boost dependent fuel management?
 
UZJ40 said:
Thank you, I believe you are correct, no emissions equipment on this truck!



I used the factory bars and tightened the nut. I did have to re-index both bars because I ran out of travel before getting a 2" lift. I'm happy with the outcome, and I don't notice any camber or steering issues.



Great advice! I do plan on having an EGT and wideband o2 sensor. I'm fine with 8-10 psi if that would be a safer boost level. I'm curious if I'd even need an intercooler at that low of boost, but happy to run one either way.

Regarding the MHI turbos - do you have a model or size in mind that would work well with the 3L? I browsed a bit, but nothing caught my eye. I think you're the first person I've heard not speak highly of Garrett. I thought they were the industry standard, but I have a lot to learn still.

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

Yes at ~9-10psi you won't need an intercooler. Make sure you're getting the coolest air you can into the intake without adding metres to the intake.

Garrett turbos are aimed at the petrol engine crowd with very few in their range that size up well for small displacement diesels. MHI went a different path with smaller turbine housings which match better for diesels. Now it's all aftermarket copies which offer great performance at very good prices.

MHI TD04-10T turbo is the fastest spooler you will find that's suitable and has a 4cm turbine housing. It was stock on Mitsbishi 4D56T and the BMW 2.5td. There are plenty of aftermarket copies available with 11 and 12 sized compressors which will do well.
The TD04HL turbine is the biggest and slowest spooler that will be suitable. You can get those made for SAAB's which had 5cm turbine housings and usually a 16T or similar compressor.
 
Dougal said:
Yes at ~9-10psi you won't need an intercooler. Make sure you're getting the coolest air you can into the intake without adding metres to the intake.

Garrett turbos are aimed at the petrol engine crowd with very few in their range that size up well for small displacement diesels. MHI went a different path with smaller turbine housings which match better for diesels. Now it's all aftermarket copies which offer great performance at very good prices.

MHI TD04-10T turbo is the fastest spooler you will find that's suitable and has a 4cm turbine housing. It was stock on Mitsbishi 4D56T and the BMW 2.5td. There are plenty of aftermarket copies available with 11 and 12 sized compressors which will do well.
The TD04HL turbine is the biggest and slowest spooler that will be suitable. You can get those made for SAAB's which had 5cm turbine housings and usually a 16T or similar compressor.
Click to expand...
Thank you very much for the help!

I'm ready to order a Kunugawa turbo. On the TD04 13T they have a few options. Any recommendations? And 9 blades or 12?

I did read the billet wheels are more durable but usually heavier, so cast is suitable for lower boost installs.

turbo.webp
 
12 blades will be fine. 9 will give you more top-end flow but slightly delayed spool. What's the housing size?
 
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