Paint, POR-15, or Powder Coat

[Trollhole]

A lot of POR suggestions; but I know of an alternative, which I'm knowing is equally attractive; and for me, was the way I went : Eastwood, which can be found on Amazon or eBay, and has website too (Eastwood - Auto Body Repair Tools | MIG Welder | TIG Welder | Plasma Cutter | Auto Body Supplies & Accessories) sells POR products, i.e. POR-15, the POR prep products, etc. But they also sell product under their own brand name. This being their Chassis Black paint series. I too would have the chassis formally sandblasted (as universally agreed here, and I did as well). But then, one could go the route via Eastwood's 2K epoxy primer & then Eastwood's Extreme Ceramic Chassis Black on top of that. Or, use Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator product (which can indeed be applied directly onto the clean, sandblasted metal, as a rust-prevention primer) & then use Eastwood's regular Extreme Chassis Black on top of that (which is not only more smooth-finish than the Ceramic Black, but also incredibly durable in most every way). Both products are offered in gloss back & satin black - and will NOT quickly fade. For the internal portions of the chassis (inside the tubed cross member, etc), Eastwood has a Rust Encapsulator rattle can with a 24" long tube - that the spray will cover the entirety of all of these un-seeable places. I'd think the same type tube could be utilized for the chassis paint as well. - - You wouldn't go wrong with this route & product. However, attractive via Eastwood, they've got basically everything else you'd need as well. They'll even mail to you a product catalog each quarter, if you wish - that one can have a field-day looking through. ~Skydog.

This guy nailed it. Though you could go one step further and galvanize it as well. On our restorations we do the 3 step eastwood product. We also use a cavity gun and get the entire inside of the frame. Something powder can never do.

 

[DEADSALT]

eastwood, POR 15, or Dominion (Canadian version of POR-15) you can do yourself.

If you choose to do it yourself,
there are two extremely important things to consider and not ignore;

1. RUST INHIBITIVE COATINGS ARE CYANIDE BASED and you must use an appropriate CHEM respirator, read the can.
Have a sniff, in short time you'll hit the floor.

2. DO NOT OVERPREP THE FRAME;

big grinder w coarse wire wheel or light sand blast.... its imperative to leave a skiff of oxidation/rust.


Getting it galvy dipped may cost more, may or may not be available in a rural area, if it is.... you drop it off and pick it up.

Powder coating looks good initially and will only last as long as your OCD prep or the bodyshop you take it too.

 

[Splangy]

eastwood, POR 15, or Dominion (Canadian version of POR-15) you can do yourself.

If you choose to do it yourself,
there are two extremely important things to consider and not ignore;

1. RUST INHIBITIVE COATINGS ARE CYANIDE BASED and you must use an appropriate CHEM respirator, read the can.
Have a sniff, in short time you'll hit the floor.

2. DO NOT OVERPREP THE FRAME;

big grinder w coarse wire wheel or light sand blast.... its imperative to leave a skiff of oxidation/rust.


Getting it galvy dipped may cost more, may or may not be available in a rural area, if it is.... you drop it off and pick it up.

Powder coating looks good initially and will only last as long as your OCD prep or the bodyshop you take it too.

1) There are no corrosion inhibitors in POR-15. That said, there are isocyanates in many modern coatings including POR-15 which will turn your liver into a hockey puck in short order.

2) With a couple of exceptions, wire wheeling leaves much too smooth of a surface for proper adhesion of most coatings.

3) Prep is equally important no matter what coating you use.

 

[DEADSALT]

thanks for requoting what I said,
they are points that are often missed