Builds Oman -> SoCal 1995 FZJ75 Troopy (4 Viewers)

[prwillard2]

Rust repairs completed. Very happy with the floorboard install.

Not in love with the windshield frame as they had to use a lot of bondo, but a metal base was put down and rust cut out.

Now to put the windshield back in, install the radiator, get the wiring harness repaired, reinstall the dash, and get her running.

 

[ryanCA]

Not to hijack the thread @prwillard2 but wanted to write a few things. I am a long term member here and long time cruiser owner (60/62/100/200). I have lived in Sharjah, Dammam and Beirut, but have been in Los angeles, CA for a long time.

Been looking at a 70 series @OGBeno knows and provided some insight. Have been debating between a SWB and a Troopy and I read all 13 pages of this great thread. I was looking at the ones from Oman as well, but some of the problems you have faced (I may call it a fun project) has me having couple of extra thoughts about them. personally for me I am looking for a farm vehicle/overlanding a bit/lots of back fire roads. No rock crawling.

I see there are two people in the LA area that seem to bring in GCC Troopy and SWB all the time. Of course one can't get a "PPI" on a 30 year old car, but have you guys looked (prior to you self importing), if it was worth getting it from these guys on the ground here in the states? Curious as to the savings on importing on your own.

@Fireselector @71harrison I heard you guys are in So Cal as well. Would it be possible to take a look at yours in person and ask some questions, before I dive head first with my wallet?

 

[prwillard2]

@ryanCA You are more than welcome to come check out my troopy anytime. Shoot me your number in a DM and I'll send you a text.

First, Regarding going through someone who's already done the import. For me it's 50% of one and 50% of the other. I really enjoyed the "hunt" so to speak of finding this troopy through my contact in Oman. I had thought this was one of the best looking troopy's he had showed us, and the timing was right for me regarding cash, etc. In hindsight, I should have probably waited and gotten a different truck or demanded more thorough pictures. But I honestly also believe that any truck that's been in Oman for 25 years already is going to have some rust somewhere. It just happens. Plus these trucks are ridden hard, and it's easy to put a quick coat of paint on things in Oman to cover up anything that you won't see until you start wire wheeling everywhere. You cannot get these individuals to start wire wheeling things to show you there's no rust, would you do this to your own vehicle in the united states?

Second, the importers, at least from what I've seen, are not doing any sort of abatement/wire wheeling/rip out of things prior to selling the vehicles they import. I'm at about 30k so far with things I HAD to do (purchase price, shipping (I also did not have the ability to RORO, so my containerized shipping was nearly 8k), replacement of the radiator, brakes, etc. Could I have gotten a 30k truck from an importer? I've seen only 1 that met that price point so far. Most are 50k and up. I could have not touched the rust that was here, as the vehicle ran fine as is and the rust probably wouldn't have been a major issue for another 10 years.

Overall, I'm happy with my purchase and enjoying the process. But if someone wanted to offer me 40k for the truck right now in the state it's in, I'd probably say yes and pivot to an 80 series that was sold in the USA just because of some of the pain regarding parts, etc.

 

[John Young]

Not to hijack the thread @prwillard2 but wanted to write a few things. I am a long term member here and long time cruiser owner (60/62/100/200). I have lived in Sharjah, Dammam and Beirut, but have been in Los angeles, CA for a long time.

Been looking at a 70 series @OGBeno knows and provided some insight. Have been debating between a SWB and a Troopy and I read all 13 pages of this great thread. I was looking at the ones from Oman as well, but some of the problems you have faced (I may call it a fun project) has me having couple of extra thoughts about them. personally for me I am looking for a farm vehicle/overlanding a bit/lots of back fire roads. No rock crawling.

I see there are two people in the LA area that seem to bring in GCC Troopy and SWB all the time. Of course one can't get a "PPI" on a 30 year old car, but have you guys looked (prior to you self importing), if it was worth getting it from these guys on the ground here in the states? Curious as to the savings on importing on your own.

Thanks for your PM, Ryan, I will put my two cents here in public; Paul and I have had slightly different experiences. I, personally, think he has just had some bad luck on the windshield frame. My troopy, which came from more-or-less the same source seems to have little to no rust.

Shortys and Troopys have very different use cases. My own desire is to own both. I'm actively looking for the right, importable shorty, but that is a long-term project. I want one late enough that it has either a 1HZ (which I have never seen) or the 1FZ; and I don't mind if it is a carbed 1FZ.

Shipping cost is quite variable. I'm currently shipping a 105 to Canada and it came in under 4K USD, all-in. But time of year and traffic patterns, and especially the choice of Roll-On, Roll-Off vs dedicated 20 foot (1 vehicle) or 40 foot (2 vehicles) will also change the cost. I think I recall others mentioning 6K USD recently, but I could not swear to that.

Regarding sourcing, you have to be flexible and patient. There are a number of guys who will help you find something you like and the first question they will ask is what is your budget. The trucks seem to be getting more expensive. I bought my troopy some years ago. I think you will need to budget 20K+ USD for a nice example, before shipping, for either a troopy or a shorty. You can get some idea from looking at dubizzle but I really would not recommend buying through dubizzle ads. They seem to be marketing to overseas buyers for the old cruisers and the dealers on there are a mixed bag.

(I edited my budget estimate after reading Paul's post.)

 

[ryanCA]

Thanks for your PM, Ryan, I will put my two cents here in public; Paul and I have had slightly different experiences. I, personally, think he has just had some bad luck on the windshield frame. My troopy, which came from more-or-less the same source seems to have little to no rust.

Shortys and Troopys have very different use cases. My own desire is to own both. I'm actively looking for the right, importable shorty, but that is a long-term project. I want one late enough that it has either a 1HZ (which I have never seen) or the 1FZ; and I don't mind if it is a carbed 1FZ.

Shipping cost is quite variable. I'm currently shipping a 105 to Canada and it came in under 4K USD, all-in. But time of year and traffic patterns, and especially the choice of Roll-On, Roll-Off vs dedicated 20 foot (1 vehicle) or 40 foot (2 vehicles) will also change the cost. I think I recall others mentioning 6K USD recently, but I could not swear to that.

Regarding sourcing, you have to be flexible and patient. There are a number of guys who will help you find something you like and the first question they will ask is what is your budget. The trucks seem to be getting more expensive. I bought my troopy some years ago. I think you will need to budget 20K+ USD for a nice example, before shipping, for either a troopy or a shorty. You can get some idea from looking at dubizzle but I really would not recommend buying through dubizzle ads. They seem to be marketing to overseas buyers for the old cruisers and the dealers on there are a mixed bag.

(I edited my budget estimate after reading Paul's post.)

Thanks John! Me and your are the same. My eventual desire, is to get rid of the 4 60s I have (after 20 years, time to get out), and move into a Shorty, Troopy, and a 70 pickup. One at a time. I personally prefer the petrol ones, that is just me. After talking to couple of importers this week, they have said, they are having a hard time getting the LA port. They are having to go to WA or TX or elsewhere, and shipping from Oman nowadays is costing 3800-5K.

Patience is no problem for me. As you know, these are hobby, and not something that will be needed to go to work tomorrow. So it seems $25k-$30K to get it to me in USA, per your numbers. If you like any of the sources... and are willing to share, would appreciate it.

 

[ryanCA]

@ryanCA You are more than welcome to come check out my troopy anytime. Shoot me your number in a DM and I'll send you a text.

First, Regarding going through someone who's already done the import. For me it's 50% of one and 50% of the other. I really enjoyed the "hunt" so to speak of finding this troopy through my contact in Oman. I had thought this was one of the best looking troopy's he had showed us, and the timing was right for me regarding cash, etc. In hindsight, I should have probably waited and gotten a different truck or demanded more thorough pictures. But I honestly also believe that any truck that's been in Oman for 25 years already is going to have some rust somewhere. It just happens. Plus these trucks are ridden hard, and it's easy to put a quick coat of paint on things in Oman to cover up anything that you won't see until you start wire wheeling everywhere. You cannot get these individuals to start wire wheeling things to show you there's no rust, would you do this to your own vehicle in the united states?

Second, the importers, at least from what I've seen, are not doing any sort of abatement/wire wheeling/rip out of things prior to selling the vehicles they import. I'm at about 30k so far with things I HAD to do (purchase price, shipping (I also did not have the ability to RORO, so my containerized shipping was nearly 8k), replacement of the radiator, brakes, etc. Could I have gotten a 30k truck from an importer? I've seen only 1 that met that price point so far. Most are 50k and up. I could have not touched the rust that was here, as the vehicle ran fine as is and the rust probably wouldn't have been a major issue for another 10 years.

Overall, I'm happy with my purchase and enjoying the process. But if someone wanted to offer me 40k for the truck right now in the state it's in, I'd probably say yes and pivot to an 80 series that was sold in the USA just because of some of the pain regarding parts, etc.

Looking forward to coming, seeing your truck, and meeting you in person. After almost 20 years on this site, there is a reason the Mud family is so great all around the world. I spent a considerable time last year getting together with LC friends from this site in Nairobi and Mombassa.

I truly enjoy the hunt as well. However, these days my GCC contacts/ME contacts have all dried up. The ones I have over at Aramco are not interesting in helping source old Toyotas. Thus I need the assist and this part is my main weakness. I understand a 30 year old truck is not going to be perfect, and I am not looking for that. I also realize used car sellers are the same everywhere. Hopefully if I can get a better one than not, is my goal.

Of all the cruisers I have had, the 80 never did anything for me. Long time ago, I test drove a 80. He asked 6200$ in Chatsworth. I offered him $5500 . That was the closest I came. I respect how amazing it is, but it just doesn't speak to me.

 

[prwillard2]

Radiator ordered through PWR is super nice! Sides of the radiator are reused from the OEM radiator. Luckily mine are in decent enough shape that they will work.

 

[prwillard2]

Replacing all my belts while my radiator is out.

Seems I'm missing the "alternator adjusting bolt". Does anyone know this part number? Cannot find it listed on part souq.

 

[prwillard2]

Replacing all my belts while my radiator is out.

Seems I'm missing the "alternator adjusting bolt". Does anyone know this part number? Cannot find it listed on part souq.

View attachment 3380470

View attachment 3380471

Looks like it's this part#

Adjust Bar Bolt - Toyota (90119-08493)​

 

[prwillard2]

New radiator installed. Need a cap and a couple worm clamps now before she's sealed.

Now to finish the heater core to get her started up.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Looks like it's this part#

Adjust Bar Bolt - Toyota (90119-08493)​

Funny, I just went through that search last week while replacing the belts on my '94 FZJ75 pickup. It initially appeared to me from the ToyoDIY parts diagrams that it wasn't OEM on these general country models. Having said that, I took a chance that it was the same as my '97 80 series and ordered the same part number that you quoted above. FWIW I tightened my AC belt first and then borrowed the adjusting bolt from that idler pulley after locking it down to tighten the alternator belt.

I later did find the part and that is the correct number. It is on the "Radiator & Water Outlet" diagram and not on the Alternator diagram.

 

[prwillard2]

Funny, I just went through that search last week while replacing the belts on my '94 FZJ75 pickup. It initially appeared to me from the ToyoDIY parts diagrams that it wasn't OEM on these general country models. Having said that, I took a chance that it was the same as my '97 80 series and ordered the same part number that you quoted above. FWIW I tightened my AC belt first and then borrowed the adjusting bolt from that idler pulley after locking it down to tighten the alternator belt.

I later did find the part and that is the correct number. It is on the "Radiator & Water Outlet" diagram and not on the Alternator diagram.

You good Sir are a saint. I also ordered the new bolt, but will do this workaround for now.

 

[coldtaco]

My PWR radiator is also a nice unit, but it also came with all the mounting tabs and riv nuts to install the fan shroud. I only forgot to mention to install a draindidn’t realize you had to specify you wanted a drain

 

[prwillard2]

Funny, I just went through that search last week while replacing the belts on my '94 FZJ75 pickup. It initially appeared to me from the ToyoDIY parts diagrams that it wasn't OEM on these general country models. Having said that, I took a chance that it was the same as my '97 80 series and ordered the same part number that you quoted above. FWIW I tightened my AC belt first and then borrowed the adjusting bolt from that idler pulley after locking it down to tighten the alternator belt.

I later did find the part and that is the correct number. It is on the "Radiator & Water Outlet" diagram and not on the Alternator diagram.

Tried your technique. Unfortunately the adjusting bolt used to be there. Don't see this full part number on the partsouq diagram.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Yes I was stumped by that assembly on the parts diagrams. I can't find it anywhere. Fortunately mine for the AC belt was complete. And oddly enough, the "block" shown above appears to be the same as the one for the Alternator but on my diagrams it says "not applicable". However, it does show it and it also gives parts numbers for the fastening bolt and the adjusting bolt. Very odd.

 

[prwillard2]

Yes I was stumped by that assembly on the parts diagrams. I can't find it anywhere. Fortunately mine for the AC belt was complete. And oddly enough, the "block" shown above appears to be the same as the one for the Alternator but on my diagrams it says "not applicable". However, it does show it and it also gives parts numbers for the fastening bolt and the adjusting bolt. Very odd.

Found the part on ebay searching for the adjusting bolt.

OEM Genuine Toyota Alternator Adjuster Bar Slider Block 16385-17010 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for OEM Genuine Toyota Alternator Adjuster Bar Slider Block 16385-17010 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[OGBeno]

Don’t forget 91511-C0835

 

[prwillard2]

Starting to try and clean up the wiring before dash install.

3 switches in the dash used to work the sirens on this car. Tons of extra wire outside the main wiring harness and trying to run down what these wires go to. Gauge seems too large to be anything OEM.

Have this wire going into my engine bay connected to something, unsure what.

 

[prwillard2]

These are the switches. The other end of the wire was run up the a pillar to and around the roof. Believe it was for the light bar and siren.

Has a denso 8599912050 relay. Says it's in an lx470 via Google.

 

[prwillard2]

This is the back and front of my fuse box in the left side kick panel. I'm not supposed to have this many fuses right?