Official 37" and up picture thread (8 Viewers)
- Thread starter slow91fj90
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Bought stock with new motor.
OME J springs and 315s”
That akward 30” stage when waiting for wheels.
37x13.5x17 Cooper STT on Method NV wheels and 1” wheel spacers.
Had to deflare, still rubbing though. Mostly on firewall.
Casper the beastly 80.
OME J springs and 315s”
That akward 30” stage when waiting for wheels.
37x13.5x17 Cooper STT on Method NV wheels and 1” wheel spacers.
Had to deflare, still rubbing though. Mostly on firewall.
Casper the beastly 80.
Are you only rubbing at the front, the back or both? Any trimming. How is the 13.50 fitting? Any rubbing against the body in the rear? I'm about to buy these because they're on sale currently and was wondering about clearance issues being a wider tire.
Rubbing a lot all over when flexed.
I’ve been out of town for 3 of the last 4 months and haven’t had time to deal with it, but it’s going to have to be cut and bunks lowered. Just not sure there is any way around it with 37”s.
Feel “a little” bad because the truck is clean.
But not “too bad”
Rereading some of this thread, I want to put a tape to my “37”s and see how tall they actually are.
My 315s Coopers were taller than a set of 35in master crafts.
Interco even advertised the 36” Iroks as taller than the 37” Iroks years ago. So weird.
My 315s Coopers were taller than a set of 35in master crafts.
Interco even advertised the 36” Iroks as taller than the 37” Iroks years ago. So weird.
The width, more so than the height of the tire, is what will make those 13.5’s tough to fit rub free. This is where back spacing has to be precise unless you don’t mind a good bit of cutting. When I was fitting 37’s, I put the frame on stands, removed all springs, the front sway bar but left the rear sway bar on since I never plan to run without it. Then I used floor jacks to articulate the axle every which way possible with wheels straight, and turned, to create every possible scenario. From there I decided how far to drop my bump stops and what wheel backspacing I needed to keep cutting minimized. I did need to trim all four fenders at the lower rear area about 1”.
This is moot if you don’t mind cutting the inner fender out and trimming the outer fender a couple inches. The rears are simpler since the rear wheels don’t turn. The lower the lift, the greater your pain.
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37 x 12.5 R17 Goodyear MT/R on Raceline monster AL beadlocks 17 x 8.5 4.75 bs
NCTrey133
@Sweet_Brown_80
I'll drop a few more in here for ya'll!
Nice flex.37 x 12.5 R17 Goodyear MT/R on Raceline monster AL beadlocks 17 x 8.5 4.75 bs
Are these 3" or 6" ICON shocks?
3.5"
another pic of how it sits currently. The back is weighted down with 500 lbs of extra set of wheels and tires tho....
I would also add to ensure that all bushings are in good order. I was getting enough deflection in my worn out front bushings for the tires to rub while turning into obsticles.
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
They rubbing badly?another pic of how it sits currently. The back is weighted down with 500 lbs of extra set of wheels and tires tho....
Nope... front clears on fork lift. Rear stuffed nicely, about 1/4 touching outterfender and 1/2" from inner ... but will need to trim rear bumper, rubbing slightly on full stuff
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
What about when turning the front wheels?
No rubbing on normal driving. I will most likely trim fenders or run bump stops. Probably rubs on full stuff and turn. What kind of front bump stops do you recommend?
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
Whatever keeps the tires out of the sheetmetal unless you're doing high speed desert stuff or jumping it, then it might be worth looking at something a bit more fancy. The Timbrens seem to be a good middle ground.
