New Radiator FJ60 Opinions (2 Viewers)

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Skreddy

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My 87 FJ60 has a few pinholes and leaks in the radiator and I am on the hunt for a new one. I’ve read a ton of threads from the last 10 or so years but still can’t decide which one so looking for some real world experience with a radiator purchased within the last 5 ish years. Im not opposed to aluminum or prefer brass, etc. This will be getting a 2FE conversion in the (hopefully) near future so may be some added heat with all those extra torques.
Seems the options are:
Mishimoto aluminum but read some threads on poor fit.
Champion aluminum but maybe some poor fit, maybe some leaks? (I have one in my big block Chevelle and it’s great?)
CSF copper/brass but seem to be a lot of threads about leaks.

At this point, leaning toward one of the aluminums because so many CSF leak threads (unless there’s a resounding support for the CSF). So then is the Mishimoto really worth twice the price of the Champion?

I checked on getting mine fixed and it’s twice the price of any aftermarket due to small cracks and pinholes in the tanks plus tube leaks. So that’s out.
 
I have a mishimoto that literally bolted in without a single issue in my 60 and also had one in my previous 62 that was the same way. My review and photos of it are on Amazon.

The benefit of the mishimoto is the warranty. I’ve already warrantied one in my 60 for a small leak and will continue to do so when needed due to the lifetime warranty.
 
I also have a Mishimoto in my 62. It bolted right in and has had zero issues in the past 3 years that it has been in there.
 
Thanks for the responses. My decision was made pretty easy after reading these and @OGBeno had a new, not needed Mishimoto he’s sending my way.
 
I was comfortable with trying the Champion.

Packaging was very good and survived UPS. The tanks were not perfectly parallel when I went to install, Champions website explains how to correct this. Installed 2 years / 14k miles ago with Dorman 49450 bushings, Denso cap, ground wire and swapped the brass petcock for one with a hose barb.

Consider the Mishimoto based on how they service the lifetime warranty. Champion lifetime warranty stipulates installation by a “recognized professional service dealer” to make good on a claim. No warm fuzzy feelings in that statement for the DIY’er but maybe they leave room for common sense.
 
I was comfortable with trying the Champion.

Packaging was very good and survived UPS. The tanks were not perfectly parallel when I went to install, Champions website explains how to correct this. Installed 2 years / 14k miles ago with Dorman 49450 bushings, Denso cap, ground wire and swapped the brass petcock for one with a hose barb.

Consider the Mishimoto based on how they service the lifetime warranty. Champion lifetime warranty stipulates installation by a “recognized professional service dealer” to make good on a claim. No warm fuzzy feelings in that statement for the DIY’er but maybe they leave room for common sense.
Lots of people miss or just don’t know about grounding the aluminum radiators.

I agree about the warranty stuff. I feel more confident in my abilities than in most “professional” people I’ve dealt with.
 
I was comfortable with trying the Champion.

Packaging was very good and survived UPS. The tanks were not perfectly parallel when I went to install, Champions website explains how to correct this. Installed 2 years / 14k miles ago with Dorman 49450 bushings, Denso cap, ground wire and swapped the brass petcock for one with a hose barb.

Consider the Mishimoto based on how they service the lifetime warranty. Champion lifetime warranty stipulates installation by a “recognized professional service dealer” to make good on a claim. No warm fuzzy feelings in that statement for the DIY’er but maybe they leave room for common sense.
Mishimotos lifetime warranty is only good for the original purchaser IIRC.
 
Another thing to consider when putting a rad into a fj60 is that the 62 radiator has a trans cooler, so you can run your trans lines or power steering lines into it if you wanted to. Not necessary but still neat. You can also use it to heat up water via a water pump if you wanted a warm offroad shower
 
My CSF from Rock Auto has been in my FJ62 for 10 years - no complaints or leaks.
 
Champion fits like a glove. I had concerns about durability but bigger concern having the transmission sharing the radiator. Best move I’ve made yet

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Lots of people miss or just don’t know about grounding the aluminum radiators.

I agree about the warranty stuff. I feel more confident in my abilities than in most “professional” people I’ve dealt with.
Thanks for mentioning grounding for aluminum radiators. I just purchased one and was not aware of the grounding issue. Did a little research and see that there may be some electrolysis build up that will break down the aluminum.
 
Dude my 1,600 aluminum radiator just s*** the bed from this. They say online that .3volts and less is good. My coolant read at .2-.3 and corroded from the inside out


You need to make sure All of your grounds are perfect if you are running an aluminum radiator. Battery to frame to body to block/head. If you are missing one, your coolant becomes the new ground wire. I had a bad frame to body ground, and technically my radiator was grounded, but my rad got eaten away.


Honestly when -(not if)- this replacement aluminum radiator dies.... Im going back to a brass/copper radiator. I pulled the original radiator from 1987 out of my truck to put this aluminum one in and it died in two years.

Im going to try and add this stuff to my coolant to try and get a little more life out of this one.

 
Dude my 1,600 aluminum radiator just s*** the bed from this. They say online that .3volts and less is good. My coolant read at .2-.3 and corroded from the inside out


You need to make sure All of your grounds are perfect if you are running an aluminum radiator. Battery to frame to body to block/head. If you are missing one, your coolant becomes the new ground wire. I had a bad frame to body ground, and technically my radiator was grounded, but my rad got eaten away.


Honestly when -(not if)- this replacement aluminum radiator dies.... Im going back to a brass/copper radiator. I pulled the original radiator from 1987 out of my truck to put this aluminum one in and it died in two years.

Im going to try and add this stuff to my coolant to try and get a little more life out of this one.

Another potential "fix" is to add a sacrificial anode. Not sure how effective they are

 
Another potential "fix" is to add a sacrificial anode. Not sure how effective they are

I saw one of those but a radiator cap. Think I might add it to the list haha
 
Dude my 1,600 aluminum radiator just s*** the bed from this. They say online that .3volts and less is good. My coolant read at .2-.3 and corroded from the inside out


You need to make sure All of your grounds are perfect if you are running an aluminum radiator. Battery to frame to body to block/head. If you are missing one, your coolant becomes the new ground wire. I had a bad frame to body ground, and technically my radiator was grounded, but my rad got eaten away.


Honestly when -(not if)- this replacement aluminum radiator dies.... Im going back to a brass/copper radiator. I pulled the original radiator from 1987 out of my truck to put this aluminum one in and it died in two years.

Im going to try and add this stuff to my coolant to try and get a little more life out of this one.


You running Toyota Red or Old Skool Green coolant?

You had a DIY or Davis grounding kit?

 

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