Oil Cooler and New Radiator - please check my homework (1 Viewer)

[scottcb]

Time to tackle a couple of projects that I’ve been ignoring or avoiding - leaking oil cooler and new radiator. I’d like a second, third or more set of eyes on the plan before I get started.
1985 FJ60 - 110K miles

1. Oil Cooler - I believe this is the source of some consistent oil seaping, not a full blown leak, but for years there is oil consistently around this thing. I believe the part is fine, just needs new seals, hoses and clamps. I purchased all of those parts (Toyota parts). I thought I’d drain all oil - basically due an oil change without the refill. Remove all hoses and then remove the oil cooler. Clean it up which may be the hardest part. Replace the seals that meet the engine block, reinstall the cooler, hoses and clamps. Refill engine with oil. Did I miss anything?
2. Radiator - 16 years ago when I picked up my FJ60, the original radiator had some tiny pin hole leaks in the top. Cash was tight and per the recommendation on the forum, some JB Weld fixed that and they have never leaked. Recently I replaced the old crusty radiator cap with a new Toyota cap. All has been fine, but I noticed that the top of the radiator in a few places along a 6 inch line is hissing and releasing pressure. Temp gauge has not moved or engine has not seemed to get hot. I’m pretty sure that if I put that old cap back on, this area would stop and the cap would let out the pressure. BUT, after this many years, I decided to just replace the original radiator with a new aftermarket one along with a new Tstat, hoses, clamps. Here are a couple of questions...
   1. I plan to drain and flush the cooling system. Is there a plug or multiple drain plugs on the block? If so, should I drain from those as well - seems like a good idea? Is there a process or sequence?
   2. I plan to cut the fan shroud once it is out per lots of recommendations on MUD to help with any future repairs. Any tips or fails to avoid?
   3. The water pump is not leaking, I was not planning to replace it at this time. Aside from convenience, is there a reason to do it now?
   4. Which Radiator? Based on reading on MUD I don’t know if there is a ONE best option for the radiator. At this point I am planning on the CSF 2708 from Rock Auto which seems to have the best price at $347. Please convince me if there is an obvious better option.
   5. I ordered the Dorman 49450 Bushings as I understand those will work as I am anticipating the original insulators coming out will be no good.
   6. Fluid. I have been running green forever. Should I stick with that and if so, is there a green brand/type that is recommended?
   7. Any tips or tricks for the radiator removal and install? I’d rather know now vs on the day in the garage as I’d liked to knock everything out. Like do I need to remove the front grill?

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[bcolvin]

Time to tackle a couple of projects that I’ve been ignoring or avoiding - leaking oil cooler and new radiator. I’d like a second, third or more set of eyes on the plan before I get started.
1985 FJ60 - 110K miles

1. Oil Cooler - I believe this is the source of some consistent oil seaping, not a full blown leak, but for years there is oil consistently around this thing. I believe the part is fine, just needs new seals, hoses and clamps. I purchased all of those parts (Toyota parts). I thought I’d drain all oil - basically due an oil change without the refill. Remove all hoses and then remove the oil cooler. Clean it up which may be the hardest part. Replace the seals that meet the engine block, reinstall the cooler, hoses and clamps. Refill engine with oil. Did I miss anything?
2. Radiator - 16 years ago when I picked up my FJ60, the original radiator had some tiny pin hole leaks in the top. Cash was tight and per the recommendation on the forum, some JB Weld fixed that and they have never leaked. Recently I replaced the old crusty radiator cap with a new Toyota cap. All has been fine, but I noticed that the top of the radiator in a few places along a 6 inch line is hissing and releasing pressure. Temp gauge has not moved or engine has not seemed to get hot. I’m pretty sure that if I put that old cap back on, this area would stop and the cap would let out the pressure. BUT, after this many years, I decided to just replace the original radiator with a new aftermarket one along with a new Tstat, hoses, clamps. Here are a couple of questions...
   1. I plan to drain and flush the cooling system. Is there a plug or multiple drain plugs on the block? If so, should I drain from those as well - seems like a good idea? Is there a process or sequence?
   2. I plan to cut the fan shroud once it is out per lots of recommendations on MUD to help with any future repairs. Any tips or fails to avoid?
   3. The water pump is not leaking, I was not planning to replace it at this time. Aside from convenience, is there a reason to do it now?
   4. Which Radiator? Based on reading on MUD I don’t know if there is a ONE best option for the radiator. At this point I am planning on the CSF 2708 from Rock Auto which seems to have the best price at $347. Please convince me if there is an obvious better option.
   5. I ordered the Dorman 49450 Bushings as I understand those will work as I am anticipating the original insulators coming out will be no good.
   6. Fluid. I have been running green forever. Should I stick with that and if so, is there a green brand/type that is recommended?
   7. Any tips or tricks for the radiator removal and install? I’d rather know now vs on the day in the garage as I’d liked to knock everything out. Like do I need to remove the front grill?

Thanks in advance for the help.

My cruiser had leaks at the oil cooler washers as well as at oil filter post. Doing both the washers and the gasket on the post cleaned up much of the leak on the passenger side of the engine.

The radiator removal is pretty straightforward although messy. If you a had a drain that could easily be opened and directed that would be helpful just so it doesn’t spray all over the frame. I believe the grill needs to be removed but I can’t exactly remember. It’s really easy to do in any case.

 

[OSS]

The bottom of the radiator has a drain cock and the engine block does too. It located on the driver’s side on the side of the block a bit towards the rear and down a bit. Easy to see. Definitely want to drain the block too.

Yea definitely use green coolant. It’s proven to work great over the decades. It will never cause a problem.

If you’ve got a 30 year old water pump, I’d replace it as preventative maintenance. Where they fail is at the shaft seal, and if that happens on a trip, you’ll be talking to God.

It’s a lot easier to replace the water pump when the radiator is out - you’ve got a lot more room.

The CSF is a proven radiator. It won’t last as long as the original Toyota, but it looks identical.

I’m not a fan of cutting the fan shroud in half. How many times are you going to remove the fan shroud? I’ll tell you, maybe once every 15 years. It’s not that difficult to remove in one piece (every 15 years) and it will be prone to rattling on dirt roads if it’s cut in half. My vote: don’t cut it.

I’d replace the fan clutch if it is more than 10 years old. It’s a super important component.

 

[DrRock]

What is driving your decision to replace the radiator vs getting the stock one repaired? I’m lucky where I live that we have a guy who is a miracle worker with radiators. You might look in your area to see if there is a good radiator shop who can do a repair, flush and pressure test to save you some money. Also, when you pull oil cooler, good to have someone test that too if possible. Also, there is another gasket that goes on the banjo bolts for the oil cooler.

Good luck!

 

[scottcb]

The bottom of the radiator has a drain cock and the engine block does too. It located on the driver’s side on the side of the block a bit towards the rear and down a bit. Easy to see. Definitely want to drain the block too.

Yea definitely use green coolant. It’s proven to work great over the decades. It will never cause a problem.

If you’ve got a 30 year old water pump, I’d replace it as preventative maintenance. Where they fail is at the shaft seal, and if that happens on a trip, you’ll be talking to God.

It’s a lot easier to replace the water pump when the radiator is out - you’ve got a lot more room.

The CSF is a proven radiator. It won’t last as long as the original Toyota, but it looks identical.

I’m not a fan of cutting the fan shroud in half. How many times are you going to remove the fan shroud? I’ll tell you, maybe once every 15 years. It’s not that difficult to remove in one piece (every 15 years) and it will be prone to rattling on dirt roads if it’s cut in half. My vote: don’t cut it.

I’d replace the fan clutch if it is more than 10 years old. It’s a super important component.

Good call on the fan clutch and makes sense on the water pump.

 

[scottcb]

What is driving your decision to replace the radiator vs getting the stock one repaired? I’m lucky where I live that we have a guy who is a miracle worker with radiators. You might look in your area to see if there is a good radiator shop who can do a repair, flush and pressure test to save you some money. Also, when you pull oil cooler, good to have someone test that too if possible. Also, there is another gasket that goes on the banjo bolts for the oil cooler.

Good luck!

Regarding the radiator, after this long I wondered if it salvageable and if it would really save much. I’m in the PHX Mesa area so I’m sure there is a radiator repair shop, but don’t know if this one can be saved. I may consider holding on to it and seeing if someone can repair it and if so keeping it as backup.

 

[OSS]

Nope. It has uniformly corroded on the inside. Once you start seeing pinhole leaks — it’s last days are near. It would be like trying to patch rotten planks on an old wooden boat.

 

[DrRock]

Regarding the radiator, after this long I wondered if it salvageable and if it would really save much. I’m in the PHX Mesa area so I’m sure there is a radiator repair shop, but don’t know if this one can be saved. I may consider holding on to it and seeing if someone can repair it and if so keeping it as backup.

Got it, as OSS says, if it's that far gone, definitely time for a new one. City Racer has the gaskets and o-Rings for the oil cooler mounting, you will need two each. No affiliation, just a happy customer.

 

[scottcb]

Got it, as OSS says, if it's that far gone, definitely time for a new one. City Racer has the gaskets and o-Rings for the oil cooler mounting, you will need two each. No affiliation, just a happy customer.

Appreciate the referral. Toyota still has them available so I grabbed a couple of sets. Excited to get this done only to find another leak

 

[Spook50]

Appreciate the referral. Toyota still has them available so I grabbed a couple of sets. Excited to get this done only to find another leak

If it ain't leakin, it ain't got fluid!

Leaks on these are like heads of the hydra: for each one eliminated......