Builds New project, 1969 fj40 (2 Viewers)

[69FJ40HILIX]

That’s why I was wondering, if swapped to discs and the newer master cylinder, I’d think all ports were 10mm so making new nicopp lines or cut, re-nut and flare existing ends? On my 1970, I switched to 4Runner caliper disc brakes up front and went with 76 (or 78) cylinders in the back to go all 10mm and better brake line routing.

House of Hose (Spokane) wil build any hose with any end for about $25. I just had (2) 20" 10MM/1.25 MA & 10MM/1.0 FE hoses made for $49 but I think you can use 4Runner hoses they are same

 

[6f40j9]

I could be wrong but I don’t think that’s an 80 master cylinder: at least not the commonly used one. The common one is a little shorter. I had the same issue on my 1970 where the master that was on it when I bought it (FJ60 master) was hitting the choke breaker so the po removed it. The 80 series master just cleared it and clears the sniper with the thinnest adapter I could make to fit.

What is the issue you are referencing with 10mm lines to front discs?

I looked back and it’s a later model 40 master. I’ll have to find a better solution.
Yes, as mentioned, my oem fittings are 9 mm, the master is obviously 10mm. Trying to find the best solution, I think I will replace the lines and rear cylinders with later model oem ones. Still not sure though, esp if I go with yet another, different master cylinder.

 

[6f40j9]

Replaced the thermostat housing and bolted down the carburetor. Need to figure out a fuel line solution, thinking banjo to barb fitting if there is such a beast that will fit this application.

 

[6f40j9]

Also need to figure out where to run that vacuum port that is currently sharing space with the master cylinder...
I think I’m supposed to cap off the one at the distributor according to a previous reply.

 

[MDH33]

You can delete the carb choke breaker if you have a good feel for manually operating your choke.

You should get or make a metal fuel line. I never like rubber fuel lines and hose clamps right above a hot manifold.

I'm surprised you decided to stick with the weird '69 carb. I pulled mine off and used an early 70's 2 barrel.

 

[6f40j9]

You can delete the carb choke breaker if you have a good feel for manually operating your choke.

You should get or make a metal fuel line. I never like rubber fuel lines and hose clamps right above a hot manifold.

I'm surprised you decided to stick with the weird '69 carb. I pulled mine off and used an early 70's 2 barrel.

I hardly ever will use the choke so I may just do that.
If I can find a metal line that will work, I’ll go that route. I wonder if the original is one piece?
The carb seemed to be the simplest option for everything else to fit. I’ve got way too much into it to change now. In hindsight there’s much better choices, but I need to keep my bad decision king title lol.

 

[69FJ40HILIX]

I hardly ever will use the choke so I may just do that.
If I can find a metal line that will work, I’ll go that route. I wonder if the original is one piece?
The carb seemed to be the simplest option for everything else to fit. I’ve got way too much into it to change now. In hindsight there’s much better choices, but I need to keep my bad decision king title lol.

Metal lines with fule in them tend to absorb heat, causing vapor lock in certain climates. The rubber fuel line is not a problem if you install top quality fule hose & calmps. These are on Amazon.

 

[6f40j9]

Thought I could take the easy way out.

There is no easy way.

I guess I have to find the missing other part of the banjo bolt that was on the carburetor and make a new line, as the one I bought to reuse my soft line doesn’t fit. Of course.

 

[6f40j9]

I hope this boot isn’t critical. I guess they don’t come in the rebuilt kits.

 

[6f40j9]

Brake master is in, rod is adjusted, vacuum delete on carb done. Now for lines.

 

[6f40j9]

This isn’t original, but what is it and can I find an oe one? It was mounted with one screw to the top threaded hole.

 

[6f40j9]

This isn’t original, but what is it and can I find an oe one? It was mounted with one screw to the top threaded hole.

View attachment 3293315

View attachment 3293316

Looks like it might be a regulator?

 

[6f40j9]

Started it up for the first time in awhile, just because.

 

[locklaw]

You can buy the boot separately from City Racer and Toyota directly in some markets still. It's not stupidly critical but keeps dirt and debris out of the plunger. While you're at it and looking at the state of some of your carb's top screws, buy a replacement set from Racer too.

I hope this boot isn’t critical. I guess they don’t come in the rebuilt kits.

View attachment 3293284

 

[6f40j9]

Not much to update. Misc bolts, a regulator, more color correction.

 

[pb4ugo]

Looks good. In the pic of the voltage regulator, the clutch slaves hard line should go to the retainer attached to the rib. I'm not sure if my routing is correct, but destination is. Fyi.

 

[6f40j9]

Looks good. In the pic of the voltage regulator, the clutch slaves hard line should go to the retainer attached to the rib. I'm not sure if my routing is correct, but destination is. Fyi.
View attachment 3307218

Thank you. I know this but I changed the master cylinder and the original hardline didn’t fit. A member was nice enough to make me a new hardline but it didn’t end up in the right place, so it’s temporary for now. I’m ordering a flare tool and line to do my brakes, I’ll bend a new one then.

 

[6f40j9]

Ordered up some brake line and tools/fittings. We’ll see how bad I botch that, lol.
Still on the lookout for the elusive 03-09/69 hard fuel line.

 

[majdomo]

One of the best patina rigs on Mud. Brake lines aren't awful but a lot of sore fingers. Are you flaring your own ends, using cunifer, etc?

 

[6f40j9]

One of the best patina rigs on Mud. Brake lines aren't awful but a lot of sore fingers. Are you flaring your own ends, using cunifer, etc?

Ordered Capri tools bender and flare tool.