Carb is on the way.
My wife said the FedEx computer initially balked at the address, but then relented and printed a shipping label, which it wouldnāt do if there was still a problem.
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Yes, the hand throttle cable does as well.Starting on this again. Got the Rochester off and the new to me ānot the best choice but it works with my air filterā carburetor test fit.
Iām trying to figure out how to run the cables and hoses.
Does the accelerator cable loop up and into the clamp pointing down?
Does the choke loop to the right and clamp horizontally through where the vacuum hose is currently?
Also wondering the best way to hook up my fuel line, as my old inlet is different.
The missing washer and funky cotter pin On the throttle spring arm thing makes me warm and fuzzy inside.
Debating getting the high dollar redline (?) insulator block as mine has old gasket permanently attached to it.
No, that's choke breaker.
I shortened the hose and got the choke cable tempād in, but I canāt see how both the throttle cables would work?Weird carb. I had one of the 3/69-9/69`s on my 40 but it didn't have those vacuum diaphragms? Not sure what you have there exactly.
Yes, the hand throttle cable does as well.
Yup.
You can make a new hard fuel line, looks like you have the banjo fitting.
The '69 only insulator riser is thicker.
I got that part. The hand throttle cable must clamp ābehindā the accelerator cable and hook into the lower bracket somehow?You have a vacuum retard distributor. advice is to just plug that line coming out of distributor.
There is a specific throttle cable that works with that carb.
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Accelerator Cable - Fits 1968-9/1969 FJ40 w/ OEM Aisin Carb Only (CARB60030)
Toyota Land Cruiser Accelerator / Throttle Cablecruiserteq.com
Cable goes through that bracket on top (yellow circle) and the cable end goes into a barrel swivel that's on the primary "lever" (red circle).
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Exactly. The end of the hand throttle passes through that long slot next to the red circle above and you'll need a removable barrel for the end.I got that part. The hand throttle cable must clamp ābehindā the accelerator cable and hook into the lower bracket somehow?
Good to know.The Marks Off Road adapter is thinner, lessening interference with the carburetor, and definitely works with the original pushrod.
I have them in myā64, ā65, ā68 andā69.![]()
I used a 1994 4runner booster brake on mine. I made an aluminum bracket that steps over the body stiffening brace and everything else bolted straight up. I eliminated the clutch cylinder and petal as I'm running a 6 speed toyota automatic 4WD trans w/ 2W & 4W high/low range. The Hilux turbo diesel has a vacume pump built onto the rear of the alternator so everything works great. I'll add pic of when I was installing it in 2021.Good to know.
The boot on my rod isnāt long enough, not sure about the actual rod.
I could be wrong but I donāt think thatās an 80 master cylinder: at least not the commonly used one. The common one is a little shorter. I had the same issue on my 1970 where the master that was on it when I bought it (FJ60 master) was hitting the choke breaker so the po removed it. The 80 series master just cleared it and clears the sniper with the thinnest adapter I could make to fit.If thereās a bad decision to make, Iāll do it.
Finally got time to work on this again.
JTO master cylinder adapter.
I think an fj80 master cylinder (didnāt come with a rod, of course my 1969 one doesnāt fit).
Another new throttle cable for the freshly rebuilt carburetor.
Last pic is just the funky solution to another poor decision to replace my clutch master cylinder.
Thereās got to be a easier way to adapt to 10mm brake lines and front discs.
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The 69 has 12MM/1.25 hose from the block splitter (at the brake shoe backplate) for 2 brake cylinders (both front wheels) to the brake line bracket (clip mount) 9MM/1.0 end, across the front frame member to the other front wheel hose (9MM/1.0 end), then up to the master cylinder. These are drum brakes not disc unless it has been changed from OEM.I could be wrong but I donāt think thatās an 80 master cylinder: at least not the commonly used one. The common one is a little shorter. I had the same issue on my 1970 where the master that was on it when I bought it (FJ60 master) was hitting the choke breaker so the po removed it. The 80 series master just cleared it and clears the sniper with the thinnest adapter I could make to fit.
What is the issue you are referencing with 10mm lines to front discs?
Thatās why I was wondering, if swapped to discs and the newer master cylinder, Iād think all ports were 10mm so making new nicopp lines or cut, re-nut and flare existing ends? On my 1970, I switched to 4Runner caliper disc brakes up front and went with 76 (or 78) cylinders in the back to go all 10mm and better brake line routing.The 69 has 12MM/1.25 hose from the block splitter (at the brake shoe backplate) for 2 brake cylinders (both front wheels) to the brake line bracket (clip mount) 9MM/1.0 end, across the front frame member to the other front wheel hose (9MM/1.0 end), then up to the master cylinder. These are drum brakes not disc unless it has been changed from OEM.