New project, 1969 fj40 (1 Viewer)

Joined
Aug 9, 2016
Messages
138
Location
California
Hi,
I am feeling very fortunate today.
about 25 years ago I sold my last fj40, a 72,
not realizing it would take me this long to get another one.
They’ve increased in value so much that I felt I couldn’t justify it until I found (to me) the ‘perfect’ one.
I wanted a relatively rust free, and uncut original example.
I prefer the earlier years for some reason, appearance wise.
I found this on Craigslist while not really even looking.
there was some light drama trying to go look at it, but afterwards it seems it was meant to be.
1969 fj40.
some rust, bondo, undercoating.
it’s all there though, and runs and drives.
looking forward to a long term ‘patina’ project.
goals are to get rid of the tan paint and resurrect as much of the blue as possible.
Disc brake front end.
Clean up the wiring and other maintenance items.
Drive when I want, enjoy it.
It’s a long time Bay Area vehicle, if anyone has any stories or knowledge about it, please share.
Thanks for looking!

1B265007-4886-44E7-B2B6-A1B398FCE01F.jpeg


9F89D35B-711C-4E44-B11A-BFB773237D75.jpeg


CD6AAA2B-5495-42AD-8231-5C18411ABFF7.jpeg


F75D6018-56B5-4B46-B3DD-0E70AB26FB0B.jpeg


37E37078-43CF-4F29-AD7E-3EF534D6BF4B.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Joined
May 6, 2020
Messages
62
Location
Seattle
Looks like a nice survivor! And we don't need to alert the bezel police :)

I've never seen eyelids on one of these. I may get flamed for this, but I kind of like it!

I'm just starting work on a 1967 that I picked up a month or so ago. I'd be interested in following your disc brake journey.
 
Joined
May 14, 2016
Messages
1,447
Location
Arizona
Can you share the frame number ? I also have a 1969. Was it a decent price or do you think it was rather high ? No worries as they will continue going up.
 
Joined
Aug 9, 2016
Messages
138
Location
California
Can you share the frame number ? I also have a 1969. Was it a decent price or do you think it was rather high ? No worries as they will continue going up.
I don’t have it in front of me, but when I do, I will.
I feel I paid a very fair price based on what I had been seeing online.
 
Joined
Jun 5, 2007
Messages
5,065
Location
Brea, Calif.
 
 
Not only are Rancho 5000 shocks the arm pit of all shock absorbers, but your's have a bigger problem. Get rid of the red rubber shock boots. Water enters the boots through the top breather holes, gets trapped inside, then rust the shafts, then the rust passing through the top seal wipes out the shock.
 
Joined
Aug 9, 2016
Messages
138
Location
California
Not only are Rancho 5000 shocks the arm pit of all shock absorbers, but your's have a bigger problem. Get rid of the red rubber shock boots. Water enters the boots through the top breather holes, gets trapped inside, then rust the shafts, then the rust passing through the top seal wipes out the shock.
That’s on the list for sure. I had to chuckle at the boots 😉
 

65swb45

Elder Statesman
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Apr 14, 2004
Messages
28,938
Location
818-953-9230
 
 
 
My ‘68 had about the same amount of rot in the rear sill when I got it. No biggie. But what’s up with those Fred Flintsone holes in the floor. I’ve never seen the inside of a toolbox from that angle!:eek:
 
Last edited:
Joined
Aug 9, 2016
Messages
138
Location
California
My ‘68 had about the sa amount of rot in the rear sill when I got it. No biggie. But what’s up with those Fred Flintsone holes in the floor. I’ve never seen the inside of a toolbox from that angle!:eek:
Definitely going to need a patch panel. Not too worried about the rest of the rust for now anyway.
going for a patina driver, not so much sanitary resto.
 
Joined
Aug 9, 2016
Messages
138
Location
California
I got to poke around for ten minutes or so today, also transferred title and got a new registration sticker.
the rear lights are barely connected, just twisted, no tape, wire nut or anything 🤣
They’re getting replaced with stock units ASAP.
The signals don’t work, the front ones come on but don’t blink. The rears aren’t connected to the signal wire, just the running light wire.
Are the ‘bullet’ lights in the front bib only supposed to come on at the first detent then go off when the headlights come on?
I’m still unsure where the hood prop rod goes so for now the hood gets leaned up against the windshield.
the biggest setback is the top cap is the wrong year.
At some point I’ll have to find the correct one but it’s not that big of a deal yet. Just not looking forward to it.

F83C5A64-2902-49C8-A938-0929A5440D93.jpeg


AA396A03-A528-4500-A5E7-914CB90A8A00.jpeg


6DB1CC4F-860E-471A-9A5D-6C3CF732D4DC.jpeg


586AD51C-5FB3-4466-BCA3-19FB495C5E5E.jpeg
 
Joined
Aug 9, 2016
Messages
138
Location
California
Found an hour or so to try and deal with some electrical issues.

Everything ( front and rear) would come on with the first detent (marker lights), headlights would turn off at second.
I re did the terminals at the fenders and got everything to work except for the headlights. Probably why they had them on the marker light terminals.

The turn signals stay on (don’t blink) but maybe because the rear lights are led and not enough resistance? I thought they would fast flash. I’ve read that grounds can be an issue, or the flasher relay?
I played around with the rear lights and am ready to install new oem ones when I order them.

I removed the aftermarket electric horn and trailer wiring that was cut off at the front bumper.

I pulled the cluster out and reinstalled a couple bulbs that were hanging, and reinstalled it how it was supposed to be (wasn’t clipped in at the bottom so it stuck out of the dash a bit.

I also removed the eyelids and vacuum line spacers that held the bezel off the bib a ways (?!).

Slowly getting to a baseline of sorts.

83B4F61A-C2EA-4B80-A144-C1866D0733E1.jpeg


D66156C3-5E6B-4D66-A382-2612BB77D121.jpeg


77AC21CC-B0EA-490F-A241-15482745330A.jpeg


6E1EC0F8-D683-4563-9674-6F4AC7E8225F.jpeg


7A30AC9B-D261-426B-9B8A-0C55C5AC61F5.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Users Who Are Viewing This Thread (Users: 0, Guests: 1)

Top Bottom