New lift, driveline vibes. Double Cardan Rear shaft? (2 Viewers)

[reklund5]

I will say this, that’s one strange looking drive shaft. The distance from the flange face to the associated U-Joint is orrery substantial. On Toyota shafts that distance is as small as possible. This helps minimize the operating angles. And, there are weights in that shaft, right.

Oh yeah. It's not like one I've seen before. But it was built buy a guy who builds KOH car and TT shafts...so it may not be suited for highway use. That said, I know KOH cars and TT go faster than 60mph and they're usually pretty smooth.... I'll have to take it to the local driveline shop and see if it spins smooth and true on their machine. I cant imagine the UPS guys bent it, so perhaps it was built a little..."off"

 

[landtank]

Looks like he didn’t have compatible flanges and cobbled something together.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Looks like he didn’t have compatible flanges and cobbled something together.

I agree with the DC drive shaft it already adds to the angle because of the DC but that drive shaft has even more to it because of the adapter flanges no way I would run that. If you don't mind me asking what company made it?

 

[reklund5]

This driveshaft was made by High Angle Driveline. They have a solid reputation in the off road world, so I figured it would be an acceptable place to start.

 

[baldilocks]

What 2” rear springs are they to produce a hub to fender measurement over 26”? Mine are Slee HD 4”, the heaviest my duty springs I’ve ever heard of for an 80 and still only a bit over 26” hub to fender.

 

[reklund5]

What 2” rear springs are they to produce a hub to fender measurement over 26”? Mine are Slee HD 4”, the heaviest my duty springs I’ve ever heard of for an 80 and still only a bit over 26” hub to fender.

Mine are dobinsons rear heavy load variable rate springs.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

This driveshaft was made by High Angle Driveline. They have a solid reputation in the off road world, so I figured it would be an acceptable place to start.

I know Jessie use to use toyota parts and I've gotten multiple custom drive shafts made by him.

 

[NorthWA]

I went with the Delta 3" long arms. Probably could have gone to 4", but they don't make those with the extra length I was after. I feel it was a combo of lift and caster correction that necessitated the front shaft. It's super common on an 80 to need that DC up front. I took the front shaft out of a low mileage T100 and had it re-tubed. It's working perfectly.

Thanks for responding and updating us that the 3.5” lift is in the front. I am lifted but need to correct castor. Trying to avoid vib’s.

 

[nukegoat]

This driveshaft was made by High Angle Driveline. They have a solid reputation in the off road world, so I figured it would be an acceptable place to start.

Not impressed with high angle driveline and wouldn't be surprised if their product is crap

Youre saying it's not tires, transfer case, diff, etc. so that only leaves the driveshaft.

 

[reklund5]

I’d sure like to try a known good DC shaft in my truck before gambling again...

 

[Surfdc]

What specific spring model numbers did you order front and rear?

Something doesn’t add up. Someone you got 4.5” of lift in the rear from 2” springs.

 

[reklund5]

What specific spring model numbers did you order front and rear?

Something doesn’t add up. Someone you got 4.5” of lift in the rear from 2” springs.

Dobinsons 2" Rear Heavy Load Variable Rate Tapered 80 Coils (Pair) - Fits FZJ80/LX450 Rear Applications (DOB97147VT)

Rear Coils for Toyota Land Cruiser

cruiserteq.com

 

[Surfdc]

Ok. Makes sense. That spring reads
“Provides 2.5" of Lift with 400lb+ Load”
So you did get over 4” of lift in rear from an unloaded heavy-rated coil.
I believe like others have stated that this puts the ds angle at the tcase out of operating limits.
Maybe two choices at this point?
Either swap your old springs back in with your stock shaft until you get your rear bumper and drawers or find a better dc shaft.

 

[reklund5]

Ok. Makes sense. That spring reads
“Provides 2.5" of Lift with 400lb+ Load”
So you did get over 4” of lift in rear from an unloaded heavy-rated coil.
I believe like others have stated that this puts the ds angle at the tcase out of operating limits.
Maybe two choices at this point?
Either swap your old springs back in with your stock shaft until you get your rear bumper and drawers or find a better dc shaft.

Did you see where I added weight to the vehicle to simulate the load and there was no change?

 

[Surfdc]

Did you see where I added weight to the vehicle to simulate the load and there was no change?

I did. Was that with your stock shaft? Still could have been too high. What was center of hub to flare measurement when loaded ?

 

[reklund5]

I did. Was that with your stock shaft?

Both with the stock and the DC shaft. No change in either. I've got low confidence that adding weight or reducing ride height by 1-1.5" would make a noticeable difference based on the testing.

 

[Surfdc]

So with your new springs installed, and 600 lbs of weight in back, and with either ds it vibrates? Correct?

 

[reklund5]

So with your new springs installed, and 600 lbs of weight in back, and with either ds it vibrates? Correct?

Correct.

 

[blinkerfluid]

if you didn't have any vibrations from the rear prior to the lifting of the vehicle, I would use the original DS with OE u-joints, get the shaft balanced and try again
aftermarket u-joints do not perform really nice sometimes

 

[landtank]

I’m assuming the stock shaft is used. It’s not unusual for used shafts to vibrate after a lift as they have worn into a rotational pattern.

Based on baldilocks experience it would seem the best solution would be a rear DC shaft.

I personally can’t get past that shaft. A computer balanced shaft will likely have a weight on the slip yoke. I’ve had 2 exceptions to that but is really rare.

And weights want to be as close to the flanges as possible and with the way that shaft is built close is pretty far away.