Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
Now to hijack the thread, I am looking at adding a DC front drive shaft after putting on the Dobi 3.5" lift, is the Landtank shaft the better option vs others?
Drive shaft bolts (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Broski
- Start date
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Malleus
Far west of Siegen
These rabbit hole topics are really the only reason I get up early on the weekend.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Last edited:
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Outsane
Supporting Vendor
yes. Landtank makes good stuff
- Thread starter
- #46
High jack away
I think the IandTank shafts are a great option especially if you want to keep it all Toyota.
That being said when I need one they were out of stock that was 8 or 10 years ago so I went with the TomWoods.
It has worked well and last year when the DC was showing ware ( my fault as I wasn’t lubing enough because I have to pull the skid to get to it ) TomWoods rebuilt the shaft for around $150.00 including round trip shipping.
When I got the shaft ( super fast ) it appeared that they just built me a new shaft.
That’s what I call customer service !
That’s what brought me to the new rear shaft
It’s a .120 DOM tube, long spline with 1350 U-joints ( they don’t offer Toyota joints ) landed at my door in 4 days for $500.00
Very hard to beat !
Knowing that if bent broke or wear it out they would rebuild it for me very quickly and affordably, I went with the TomWoods again.
- Thread starter
- #47
Or weld it?
These may work for you.
Extended Toyota Driveshaft Bolts 10mm
These are the same bolts that are included in our Dana 60 & 14 Bolt pinion flange kits. Made to the same spec as OEM, these bolts are 5mm longer than stock, as shown in the pictures. Factory hardware comes pre-applied with a threadlocking compound, we recommend blue Loctite to prevent these from...www.yotamasters.com
This is the hardware that came with the Drive Shaft.
I thought it was counterproductive to buy a heavy duty thick wall driveshaft and then use smaller hardware to mount it up.
Am I just overthinking it.
Outsane
Supporting Vendor
I tried...
Poop
Poop
After pondering this overnight I do know of a longer bolt option in a 11x1.0. That would be our head bolts, might have to stack some washers to get things to snug up.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Oops, i missed that they were 10mmThis is the hardware that came with the Drive Shaft.
I thought it was counterproductive to buy a heavy duty thick wall driveshaft and then use smaller hardware to mount it up.
Am I just overthinking it.
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
Anyone try 9010511044? Later driveshaft bolts and they appear to be 30mm long vs 28mm (9010511013).
I can count two extra threads on the 9010511044 bolts, which confirms 2mm extra length. Not a huge difference, but 2mm is about the thickness of a good washer...
I can count two extra threads on the 9010511044 bolts, which confirms 2mm extra length. Not a huge difference, but 2mm is about the thickness of a good washer...
I realize that we are concentrating on the rear bolts, but whats the plan for the studs on the transfer case?
- Thread starter
- #53
No way to fix that short of turning down the flange like suggested earlier.
At the time I was looking for a replacement front shaft, Rick was out of stock so I went with Tom Woods.
It's an OK product but inferior to the OEM stuff. I'm not a fan of Spicer joints and it's impossible to grease the center of the double cardan without dropping the shaft.
I wouldn't do it again.
At one point I had at least 4 OEM rear driveshafts in my garage. Some were pretty beat up.
I had a fabricator source 1/4 wall DOM and he cut the yokes off the old shaft, turned down the ends of the tubing to fit the OEM parts and weld it up.
Took it to a driveshaft shop, had the unis replaced with new OEM, balanced, and painted.
It weighs a freakin ton, but doesn't bend. Runs pretty smooth on the road.
I had a fabricator source 1/4 wall DOM and he cut the yokes off the old shaft, turned down the ends of the tubing to fit the OEM parts and weld it up.
Took it to a driveshaft shop, had the unis replaced with new OEM, balanced, and painted.
It weighs a freakin ton, but doesn't bend. Runs pretty smooth on the road.
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
Very good information, thank you!!!
Will be contacting Mr. Landtank for a new shaft next week.
- Thread starter
- #57
To close out this thread
I did order the 9010511044 bolts, they are indeed longer. 38.92 mm versus 41.32mm
On the rear of the DS that gives me a couple of treads past the nut no washer. As there is only one washer and it's flat and both the nut and bolt have a washer built into to them (flange nut & bolt) I am comfortable running with out that flat washer.
On the transfer case side the nut is fully seated with no washer and I going to run it.
I paint marked every thing and will keep a eye on it.
I did order the 9010511044 bolts, they are indeed longer. 38.92 mm versus 41.32mm
On the rear of the DS that gives me a couple of treads past the nut no washer. As there is only one washer and it's flat and both the nut and bolt have a washer built into to them (flange nut & bolt) I am comfortable running with out that flat washer.
On the transfer case side the nut is fully seated with no washer and I going to run it.
I paint marked every thing and will keep a eye on it.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
FWIW, when I was working for a railroad equipment manufacturer, we had a policy of always specifying bolt lengths so that 2-3 threads would be exposed after the final torque was reached. The railroads understood that this was there for them - their inspectors only had to check for exposed threads to make certain that the joints were still tight.
Better than paint matching bolts/nuts because paint never lasted on railroad equipment. At least not the paint we used. Maybe we should have used the art paint the kids were using...
Better than paint matching bolts/nuts because paint never lasted on railroad equipment. At least not the paint we used. Maybe we should have used the art paint the kids were using...
- Thread starter
- #59
So it had nothing to do with the holding power just for visual checks right.
I'm sure it will be fine
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