New Head Gasket, 2 new problems, Overheating and Low Power *Update* Radiator Pics* (1 Viewer)

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Ignition timing ang cam timing are two very different things. Not sure how similar this is comparing an infer 1fz to a newer 105 style setup
Very much aware of the difference. On DIS type engines it's crucial to have your cam and crank timing properly set. If your crank and cams are out of sync Ignition timing doesn't mean squat. So, back the basics of ensuring cams and crank are spot on before proceeding with diagnostics since the issue occurred after removing the head.
 
I do have to wonder if shaving the head wasn't enough. *Maybe* the block surface has corrosion tracks and the combustion gasses are escaping into the cooling system.

Easy enough to check: warm up engine, rev it up to 2500 rpms, look for aquarium style bubbles coming up in the overflow reservoir.
 
Very much aware of the difference. On DIS type engines it's crucial to have your cam and crank timing properly set. If your crank and cams are out of sync Ignition timing doesn't mean squat. So, back the basics of ensuring cams and crank are spot on before proceeding with diagnostics since the issue occurred after removing the head.
Yesterday we double checked the cam / crank timing. It was spot on.
Power returned after adjusting the valves. There was a lot of valve chatter when there was low power, now the valve train is silent.
Computer controls the ignition timing so the only timing problems come if the cams and crank are not aligned right.
Thermostat is installed correctly.

Appreciate all of the clues you guys are giving. Using a pdf version of service manual for a distributor 1FZFE but it is a mess with lots of repeat pages (over 5000 pages total to sort through)
 
Found the overheating issue !!!
Never seen this before, but when the head gasket leak pressurized the cooling system, the internal tubes of the aluminum radiator swelled and squeezed the fins together essentially closing off 80-90% air passages.
I used a small screwdriver to confirm that the tubes had swelled 3-4 times their normal width due to the pressure.
The tubes that didn't swell are below the holes for comparison. There is about 2-3 mm (1/8 in) between the swollen tubes.
IMG_20171024_113716674[1].jpg

Good News; radiator volume has increased,
Bad News; air flow sucks.

Don't tell my wife how much this will cost on top of the HG repair.
Moral of the story, Do your HG as PM way before needed !!!
 
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Glad you found the issue.
 
Found the overheating issue !!!
Never seen this before, but when the head gasket leak pressurized the cooling system, the internal tubes of the aluminum radiator swelled and squeezed the fins together essentially closing off 80-90% air passages.
I used a small screwdriver to confirm that the tubes had swelled 3-4 times their normal width due to the pressure.
The tubes that didn't swell are below the holes for comparison. There is about 2-3 mm (1/8 in) between the swollen tubes.
View attachment 1561039
Good News; radiator volume has increased,
Bad News; air flow sucks.

Don't tell my wife how much this will cost on top of the HG repair.
Moral of the story, Do your HG as PM way before needed !!!


That would indicate to me that the radiator cap failed also to allow an over-pressure situation like that.

Glad you found the issue!
 
Found the overheating issue !!!
Never seen this before, but when the head gasket leak pressurized the cooling system, the internal tubes of the aluminum radiator swelled and squeezed the fins together essentially closing off 80-90% air passages.
I used a small screwdriver to confirm that the tubes had swelled 3-4 times their normal width due to the pressure.
The tubes that didn't swell are below the holes for comparison. There is about 2-3 mm (1/8 in) between the swollen tubes.
View attachment 1561039
Good News; radiator volume has increased,
Bad News; air flow sucks.

Don't tell my wife how much this will cost on top of the HG repair.
Moral of the story, Do your HG as PM way before needed !!!
I'll make sure to tell @nukegoat
 
Thats a new one

No kidding. Possibly the first new thing I've seen on this forum in a decade.

I would gladly let one of you guys be the innovator on this one. :)
Next step, making this radiator work until I can find another core. Separating the fins with a sharp spike to allow air flow.
Talk about tedious, but I want to drive, I'm sick of taxis.
IMG_20171025_092322471[1].jpg
 
I would gladly let one of you guys be the innovator on this one. :)
Next step, making this radiator work until I can find another core. Separating the fins with a sharp spike to allow air flow.
Talk about tedious, but I want to drive, I'm sick of taxis.
View attachment 1561705

I clean up/straighten fins all the time from bug and bird strikes. I have even done the find on my home A/C due to a massive hail storm.
 
I clean up/straighten fins all the time from bug and bird strikes. I have even done the find on my home A/C due to a massive hail storm.


Thanks, but this is not a superficial combing the surface of the fins issue, the vertical aluminum tubes swelled like a balloon and crushed the fins shut all the way through the core form one side to the other (Look closely at the first pic with 2 holes through the fins). The radiator is ruined, ashamed to say it but, my temp fix only ruined the radiator more as I slipped once and punched a hole in one of the tubes, ending the temp fix idea.
 
I have seen radiators explode during catastrophic head gasket failures - the radiator cap cannot pass the pressure fast enough, so the plastic tank lets go. Replacing the radiator with a head gasket job is generally a good idea anyway.
 
Separating the fins with a sharp spike to allow air flow.
Talk about tedious, but I want to drive, I'm sick of taxis.
View attachment 1561705

I'd hazard a guess that you're just making it worse. Any flow you gain is countered by the loss of fin surface area. IMO, find the money for a radiator, don't dump any more time, money, or effort into that one.

EDIT- Just saw that you put it out of your misery.
 
I'd hazard a guess that you're just making it worse. Any flow you gain is countered by the loss of fin surface area. IMO, find the money for a radiator, don't dump any more time, money, or effort into that one.

It was just going to be a temp fix for driving around town til I can get a replacement that will take 1-2 months. Parts availability here is not good.
so you took it from completely ruined to ... more completely ruined?
That's like going from lightspeed to ludicrous speed!
Yes, please rub it in :clap:, with several hours of hard work I made bad into worse:doh:. A smart idea turned stupid. :bang:

Now spending $20 to have my radiator guy patch-up the older radiator I had previously taken out. This will be my new temp fix.
:deadhorse:
 
It was just going to be a temp fix for driving around town til I can get a replacement that will take 1-2 months. Parts availability here is not good.

Yes, please rub it in :clap:, with several hours of hard work I made bad into worse:doh:. A smart idea turned stupid. :bang:

Now spending $20 to have my radiator guy patch-up the older radiator I had previously taken out. This will be my new temp fix.
:deadhorse:


Sorry for your loss.

I take it that it is difficult to purchase an OEM Toyota Radiator in Peru? A new Toyota Rad comes with a new Rad cap too.

At least for temporary fix, I'd have to agree.

Good Luck!
 
Was that aluminum radiator an after market one or a toyota one, I am thinking if it was Chinese it was junk before you did the head gasket
 
Was that aluminum radiator an after market one or a toyota one, I am thinking if it was Chinese it was junk before you did the head gasket
It was an OEM Toyota with plastic tanks that I had replaced with aluminum tanks. Good thing I did or I would have been stranded in Chile while on vacation with a plastic tank blown off and no hope of anything like AAA to call for a tow.

Sorry for your loss.
I take it that it is difficult to purchase an OEM Toyota Radiator in Peru? A new Toyota Rad comes with a new Rad cap too.
At least for temporary fix, I'd have to agree. Good Luck!
If it was a Corrola or HiLux, no problem, parts are everywhere, but for an older LC it's tough.
Mr T wanted $1230.00 and I had to wait 70 days, they said if I was in a hurry they could get it in 40 days for $2154.00.
They are insane, said airfreight was expensive.
Found a guy who had 3 and bought the last one he had for $ 290.00 back in June. Have to find a permanent solution before my next trip out of the city. Ahh, life in the developing world. Off to start the hunt for a core tomorrow. I should post a pic of the autoparts district so everyone can get a good laugh, no Autozone or Napa here.
 

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