New Head Gasket, 2 new problems, Overheating and Low Power *Update* Radiator Pics*

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DSRTRDR said:
can you get the Koyo radiator that is working for many of us ? Where did you buy your Koyo Radiator?
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WillGentry said:
just got my Koyo in from go-parts.com came in bent, I'm hoping it doesn't leak. I don't have enough time to send it back.
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Too concerned about shipping damage to have one shipped here by mail. Mail gets treated like baggage on a plane here, most boxes I get are severely crushed.
Otherwise I have heard good comments about Koyo.
I'll try to see if there is a rep here, thanks.
 
If you want to PayPal me the money I will order one on Amazon, shipped to me then box it up properly and ship it to you.
 
LS1FJ40 said:
If you want to PayPal me the money I will order one on Amazon, shipped to me then box it up properly and ship it to you.
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This is why I like IH8MUD !!

Thanks, I found a guy who makes intercoolers for semi trucks. He is trying to track down an aluminum core for me. He thinks a large intercooler core might work.
I will let you know. A well packed radiator will probably survive the rough shipping and handling here.
 
Just let me know man. I don't have the technical knowledge that most have. But I'm happy to help anyone out!
 
For less then the 1000 dollar price you quoted for a factory replacement radiator, you might want to look into a custom Ron Davis radiator.
Off-Road Radiators | Ron Davis Racing Products
Toyota Don't see what you are looking for call 800-842-5166 ( M-F 8 am to 4 pm MST ) we'll be glad to help!



Shown: FJ40

Part Number

1-4516402

'60-'97 FJ40's/ FJ55/ FJ60's/ FJ80/ Type Radiators
  • 2 rows of 1" wide tubes
  • All aluminum construction
Recommended: Master Grounding Kit


*V8 Conversions available
 
Interesting thread. I have two 80's, both of which run hotter than expected at highway speeds, but stay <190F at lower RPMs.

Vehicle #1:

My HG blew in May 2016 and I had it replaced by a mechanic that came highly recommended by a friend (was also supposedly replaced ~2-3 years before I bought it, but I know for sure the PO put a new Koyo radiator in it <1 year before I bought it). Shortly after the HG was replaced I left Wisconsin and drove it to Texas and had to watch my speed CLOSELY the entire 1100 mile trip as temps were approaching 220 which had never happened before the HG issue & replacement.

While in TX I flushed the coolant as thoroughly as I could, confirmed that the thermostat was correctly installed, then refilled with Toyota Red and added some water wetter just to see if it would help with the temps.

Even after all that, the temps were still floating around 200 if I went slow on the highway and would approach 220 if I tried to drive 70ish. The temps never go over 190 if I'm keeping RPMs low (driving around down or on trails) but I do have to keep an eye on it any time I'm on the highway.

With me keeping my foot out of it I didn't really notice the power loss until I got into the mountains in Colorado. She really struggles on some of the climbs here. I attributed this to the inherently weak 1FZ-FE + 35s + stock gears + all the armor, drawers and gear I keep in the cruiser. When my inner seals went on the front axle I went ahead and had it regeared from 4:11 to 4:88 which helped some, but she still struggles between Durango & Silverton (several very long & steep climbs).

@Peru Darrell what adjustment was done on the valves? I'd like to look into this further as I've checked all the things I could look at and haven't come up with anything yet.

After reading this thread I inspected the tubes on the radiator but they look fine. However, I always seem to have a mix of grey and reddish-brown sludge in the reserve tank (I cut the hose about 1/2" short so it won't suck it back in I wash out the reserve tank every month or so) and yesterday I noticed some floaties in the top of the coolant as well as some film on the inside of the radiator cap.

Do I need to start looking hard at my head gasket?

Any thoughts on what I might look at to help with the temperature?

(below pics are from radiator cap of 80 #1)

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Vehicle #2:

This vehicle was completely stock (until recently) and I've owned it since 2011. I never noticed the temp getting hot, but before leaving Wisconsin with this vehicle I added a ScanGuage. When driving it from Wisconsin to Colorado I had to really take it easy or the temps would hit 220. I put a new Koyo radiator in it in 2015 and it's barely been driven since, so at the time of the WI to CO trip that radiator & coolant had maybe 2000 miles on it.

The temps on 80 #2 also stay around 190 at lower RPMs, but on the highway tend to climb to an undesirable level.
 
@txgringo My guess would be radiator or fan clutch. Are the radiators copper? Do the fan clutches engage?
 
txgringo said:
Interesting thread. I have two 80's, both of which run hotter than expected at highway speeds, but stay <190F at lower RPMs.
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Fan Clutch. Toyota Belts properly tensioned.
 
Peru Darrell said:
It was an OEM Toyota with plastic tanks that I had replaced with aluminum tanks. Good thing I did or I would have been stranded in Chile while on vacation with a plastic tank blown off and no hope of anything like AAA to call for a tow.


If it was a Corrola or HiLux, no problem, parts are everywhere, but for an older LC it's tough.
Mr T wanted $1230.00 and I had to wait 70 days, they said if I was in a hurry they could get it in 40 days for $2154.00.
They are insane, said airfreight was expensive.
Found a guy who had 3 and bought the last one he had for $ 290.00 back in June. Have to find a permanent solution before my next trip out of the city. Ahh, life in the developing world. Off to start the hunt for a core tomorrow. I should post a pic of the autoparts district so everyone can get a good laugh, no Autozone or Napa here.
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You actually maybe touched something there.

Can / will a Hilux radiator be MADE to fit by modifying the radiator support a bit? Find one that has similar cubic inch or larger and see if one can be "adapted" so you convert your LC over to more readily available parts?
 
fan clutch on both 80's engage, but wouldn't the fan clutch make a difference at low speeds but not be a factor at high speeds?

The tank on 80 #1 is copper, and the tank on 80 #2 is plastic.

belts are tight on both 80's (have been checked at dealership on 80 #1)
 
txgringo said:
fan clutch on both 80's engage, but wouldn't the fan clutch make a difference at low speeds but not be a factor at high speeds?
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The FZJ80 is fan dependent at highway, so if the clutch isn't up to snuff, can suffer at speed, especially when climbing.

txgringo said:
The tank on 80 #1 is copper, and the tank on 80 #2 is plastic.
...
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Our observation is; copper radiators run warmer than aluminum, some are good with that.
 
@Tools R Us, thanks for that info. I wasn't aware of the copper vs aluminum difference and also thought the fan only helped at lower speeds. Will look at replacing the radiator on 80 #1 and will look harder at the fan clutch on 80 #2 (since it's definitely a stock clutch). 80 #1 has a newish Aisin fan clutch that was supposedly modded by PO but I will check it out.
 
Hi, We have used both aluminum(Toyota) and copper radiators CSF in our fj80 , both seemed about the same. Thermostat ,burping the system and fan clutch made more of a difference. This may sound strange but increasing tire pressure to 50 psi instead of 40 psi made a lot of difference in keeping the cruiser cooler, esp In the mountains. Mike
 
@ppc installed new plugs and wires with the HG.

I have not verified the timing. Is this something I could do myself (limited mechanic skills) or do I need to take it into a shop?

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