New Head Gasket, 2 new problems, Overheating and Low Power *Update* Radiator Pics*

Joined
Oct 10, 2013
Messages
123
Location
Arequipa, Peru
I need some advice. After my mechanic installed the new head gasket, the truck is now overheating and has very low power.
This is everything that was done:
Installed new head gasket, planed and rebuilt the head, installed new timing chain tensioner, guide and follower, all new head bolts

I took out the thermostat to make sure it wasn't causing the overheating and nothing changed.
The fan clutch seems to be ok, just added new fluid and the silicone additive 2 months ago.
Radiator is brand new, water pump 2 months old.

Any ideas on what to check? or What he might have done wrong?
 
Joined
Apr 4, 2013
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2,285
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Springfield, OR
 
Oh boy, you have something that only a handful of people here in the states have; a distributorless ignition system. Low power and overheating sounds like possibly really retarded timing. The only way for you to know for sure if the timing is correct is to check the timing marks on the cams and the crank. Make sure your crankshaft harmonic balancer isn't worn out. If it is, it could throw off timing. The rubber portion can tear free and allow the outer portion to move slightly. This can cause some serious issues when setting up timing on Distributorless systems. Either way, it's something your mechanic has done and should be left to fix. I would make him check the timing using the factory timing marks and then check the valve adjustment since they did the head.
 

flintknapper

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May 22, 2004
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Deep East Texas
 
 
 
?? not sure. It is a 1FZFE no distributor. I think the computer controls the spark.
Yes, ECU would control timing 'advance', but the base/initial timing is dependent upon the timing chain and its relation to cam/crank position.

Its possible the chain is mis-positioned from the timing marks on either the Cam timing gear or the Crank timing gear (or both).

Just one possibility ^^^^^^^^

I would also want to know how much material was taken off the head when it was surfaced. IF too much is removed in order to correct warpage....then when the head is installed and bolted down, it puts the cams in a bind.

Probably best to make your mechanic aware of the issue and ask his advice.
 
Joined
Oct 10, 2013
Messages
123
Location
Arequipa, Peru
Thanks for the advice, The mechanic is trying to tell me it is the fan clutch, but I really don't think so.

Seems more than likely that the chain is off a tooth.
 
Joined
Oct 10, 2013
Messages
123
Location
Arequipa, Peru
Re-adjusting the valves got the power back.
Overheating continues.
Installed new fan, fan clutch works well.
Overheating seems to happen more in stop and go or slower traffic. Drove 50 mph tonight for 1 mile while temps were cool outside and it cooled down almost to the normal range.
 
Joined
Oct 10, 2013
Messages
123
Location
Arequipa, Peru
Brand new Aluminum Radiator before the head gasket blew. (Also new Rad cap, water pump, thermostat and engine was flushed)
Shroud is in place. (Fan holds paper to front of Radiator at idle and high engine speeds.)
Installed a new fan today and had same result as the stock fan.
Silicone fluid was added to fan clutch 2 months ago
All air is purged out.
Normal temps were +/-185F now gets to 220F

Could it just be a tight head after the rebuild causing temps to rise during break in?
 
Joined
Jul 28, 2017
Messages
48
Location
Arizona
Do you have an ir temp gun? Need to measure temp drops across the radiator, inlet/outlet temps etc. I’d try the old radiator personally... no combustion in the reservoir?
 
Joined
Oct 10, 2013
Messages
123
Location
Arequipa, Peru
A new head should not make an engine get hot, no
Didn't think so either, my mechanic said no also.

Radiator was new before head gasket blew? Did you send it out for cleaning after it blew?
We flowed the radiator and it flowed perfectly. there was never any contamination in the coolant, only a small pressure blow-by from the cylinder to the cooling system at #6 piston.

Do you have an ir temp gun? Need to measure temp drops across the radiator, inlet/outlet temps etc. I’d try the old radiator personally... no combustion in the reservoir?
No laser temp gun, but borrowed an infrared camera from a friend today to confirm the temps on the aftermarket temp gauge. Gauge is 2 months old and worked fine before, running 185F temps normally. Will try this in the morning.
 

inkpot

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Jan 30, 2003
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13,621
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All over Arizona
 
 
 
Oh boy, you have something that only a handful of people here in the states have; a distributorless ignition system. Low power and overheating sounds like possibly really retarded timing. The only way for you to know for sure if the timing is correct is to check the timing marks on the cams and the crank. Make sure your crankshaft harmonic balancer isn't worn out. If it is, it could throw off timing. The rubber portion can tear free and allow the outer portion to move slightly. This can cause some serious issues when setting up timing on Distributorless systems. Either way, it's something your mechanic has done and should be left to fix. I would make him check the timing using the factory timing marks and then check the valve adjustment since they did the head.
Ignition timing ang cam timing are two very different things. Not sure how similar this is comparing an infer 1fz to a newer 105 style setup
 
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