Builds New 80 In Virginia (3 Viewers)

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Looks good, Lou.

Any plans for labeling?

You know he asked me about that and I elected not to do it right now...two of the switches are extra's that may have a home pretty soon...as I have a 20' Rigid sitting on the work bench...once I figure it out I'll have a plate made with labels

Lou
 
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My rear defroster was not working due to PO using a blade to remove something off the inside glass and of course cut through
the defroster... and decided to replace the front glass at the same time do to a minor leak in the seal but more importantly i think this was original glass and it was so pitted and never looked clear...

So I called Safelight...I know there have been a few issues here regarding workmanship and sealing the glass properly.
I printed the FSM and decided to hand it to the tech if needed.

Here's the good part.... the aftermarket glass has the darker band at the top and the glass is tinted for UV protection...anybody who has driven an 80 into the sun on a hot day knows how penetrating the sun is through the standard glass...that was a huge plus
and I never had to pull out the FSM...in conversation with tech he explained his process with the adhesive and it was right in line with the FSM.

The rear hatch glass was an issue...aftermarket glass does not match the factory tint and OEM glass is really expensive.... the aftermarket glass is tinted it just doesn't have that reflective look...
I'm really not concerned about it matching... but plan on having it tinted for privacy
I guess the first big rain will determine if he did a good job...until that time my first impression was I got a first rate tech..

Lou

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Dark Band

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Tinted
 
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I hear you on the front glass Lou! Mine looks to be the original and the pitting just means it is never really clear. I might gamble and do the safelite thing.... I will check with the dealer and see what they charge.
 
I hear you on the front glass Lou! Mine looks to be the original and the pitting just means it is never really clear. I might gamble and do the safelite thing.... I will check with the dealer and see what they charge.

Keep in mind that most .. like 99.99% don't install glass... they'll order it and call in an installer..and the other question.. I'm sure Beno or CDan would know... OEM glass, is it tinted and does it have the dark tinted band at the top.. I'm thinking not.

The keys steps for the front glass is putting adhesive in the groove of the weather strip where the glass sits and once installed running a bead under the weather strip.

Lou
 
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Finally finished wiring the roof rack and pulled the headliner to figure out the right location to drill a hole for the waterproof gland the wires will run through but also had to do a little work on the headliner. The marine vinyl I used to cover the headliner wasn't sticking to the headliner due to a small leak from the old windshield seal.. the leak was fix with a new seal and windshield... Repaired the front area with glue and also fiberglassed a few weak spots on the headliner
Opened up the relay box and have to say Greg from Concours Specialties did a fantastic job....I'm hoping to have lights working up top by Sunday

Lou
 
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Finally finished wiring the roof rack and pulled the headliner to figure out the right location to drill a hole for the waterproof gland the wires will run through but also had to do a little work on the headliner. The marine vinyl I used to cover the headliner wasn't sticking to the headliner due to a small leak from the old windshield seal.. the leak was fix with a new seal and windshield... Repaired the front area with glue and also fiberglassed a few weak spots on the headliner
Opened up the relay box and have to say Greg from Concours Specialties did a fantastic job....I'm hoping to have lights working up top by Sunday

Lou

Sweet relay block! I'm looking for one of those.
 
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Sweet flay block! I'm looking for one of those.

If you know how to wire one ... you can pick one up on the net.... I'm pretty clueless when it comes to this stuff that,s why I left in the hands of experts.. Funny thing is ... everything was done via phone and email ... They do great work

Lou
 
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Three major wiring projects ...two completed..... Just finished the dual battery wiring ...and need to make a small adjustment.. The battery selector which is mounted on the cruise control cover needs to move about 1/2 away from the fender... the hood strut just hits the selector
I have a new appreciation for those that do wiring ...all the little details .... Attaching lugs and connectors, shrink wrapping, wire sheathing... and trying to keep everything neat and tidy.. I don't even want to to add up the cost of everything I bought to wire up the rack and the dual battery setup and just dropped another $75 on 4G wire that will run from the new battery to the rear of the truck.. There's a huge difference in cost and the thickness of the cover on the wire between the 4G you'd purchase at a big box store like H Depot or Lowe's vs West Marine. Purchased all the wire from WM ... Blue Sea stuff from Amazon and WM..shrink wrap from Auto Zone... Lugs and connectors from WM and Sears Hardware... Bought this cool lug crimper for $15 on Amazon that you hit with a hammer that works great .. The bottom line is this sh%t cost a lot of money and takes longer then expected.

Lou
 
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Very clean, Lou.

Have considered the same mounting location for the Powergate, but it's too tall to mount level, and I can't bear to look at crooked. Haha.

Agree on expense.

Did you replace the alternator to battery lead?
 
Very clean, Lou.

Have considered the same mounting location for the Powergate, but it's too tall to mount level, and I can't bear to look at crooked. Haha.

Agree on expense.

Did you replace the alternator to battery lead?

Do I need to repalce it?

Lou
 
Haha. I don't know. Was hoping you did. Haha.

Hahahaha....I'll do it if you do!!

I've been contemplating how to run the 4g to the rear... I've seen a few run it under the truck and some have run it through the grommet on the drivers side
I just read a post by CycloSteve and he ran positve and negative leads from the new battery through the passenger side fire wall and right down the side of the truck... I have waterproof glands that I can use. Any thoughts on that?

Lou
 
I knocked two holes in the frame rail of the F 350 and ran 4ga to the rear bumper, for auxiliary trailer power and portable welder.

Found grommets online ( maybe McMaster-Carr? ) and fished through from the engine bay, all the way to the rear, battery mounted on trailer, though.

Not sure what'd be the best method for in cab wiring.

What's going back there?
 
I have a new hobby - reading about your mods! I'm definately going to hang out on your thread this evening. I want to find out more about that switch panel!

M
 
I knocked two holes in the frame rail of the F 350 and ran 4ga to the rear bumper, for auxiliary trailer power and portable welder.

Found grommets online ( maybe McMaster-Carr? ) and fished through from the engine bay, all the way to the rear, battery mounted on trailer, though.

Not sure what'd be the best method for in cab wiring.

What's going back there?

The Relay box for the roof lights

Lou
 
I have a new hobby - reading about your mods! I'm definately going to hang out on your thread this evening. I want to find out more about that switch panel!

M

Check out www.teamconcours.com... Stumble on a relay box they built in a buggy forum and looked at their gallery of switch plates and knew I found the right company...


Lou
 
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Got Lights!!... So I decided I'd better test the relay and switch plate before installing everything in the truck... As advertised.. Plug and Play..

Lou
 
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