Need to replace battery? What do you guys use? (1 Viewer)

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LCMemphis said:
Thanks all...I'll most likely shop deals this weekend for lead based battery like Duralast Gold, Duracell, or Everstart Maxx with 3 year replacement warranty.
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OK, but for clarity...AGMs are also lead-based batteries. ;)
 
TeCKis300 said:
Sure. Batteries are more complicated than meets the eye. The main thing to understand is that each battery type/chemistry, and even variations from manufacturers, requires different charge profiles to optimally charge and maintain the battery. At worst, the wrong battery charging profile will lead to a premature depth.

You might be aware that most advanced chargers these days, including your Noco, have many charging stages. There's also many battery modes to support various chemistries. These tailor and change the charging parameters and voltage breakpoints. Some need higher/lower voltages, different breakpoints between stages, temperature compensations, etc.

Your Noco has many battery type modes. The car alternator does not and is already tailored to the specific battery types it comes with - lead acid. Audi's and other German cars do sometimes come stock with AGMs, and their regulators are setup for those batt types.

Another consideration is that AGMs do not like high underhood temps, and should not be charged above something like 120-130* F or will boil and vent. Underhood is most definitely hotter than that, especially when off-road crawling. When German cars come with AGMs, they are located in separate compartments from the engine bay.
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Do you have any specific hypothesis as to why my charger seemingly used to do the job and now does not? That's what has me :hmm:

Should I consider grabbing the G7200 charger with it's AGM+ setting @ 15.5V? Still it seems my little charger capable of 14.8V should get the job done. Odyssey's own chargers mention "just" 14.7V. I'm assuming these voltages are referring to the bulk stage voltage.
 
JohnJB said:
Do you have any specific hypothesis as to why my charger seemingly used to do the job and now does not? That's what has me :hmm:

Should I consider grabbing the G7200 charger with it's AGM+ setting @ 15.5V? Still it seems my little charger capable of 14.8V should get the job done. Odyssey's own chargers mention "just" 14.7V. I'm assuming these voltages are referring to the bulk stage voltage.
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The AGM+ setting would be too high for my Northstar AGM battery:

LC200BattInstall4_25APR16_zpsycrarbcp.jpg


HTH
 
One vote for original toyota batteries, though it does help that my local parts counter has a discount website portal.
 
gaijin said:
The AGM+ setting would be too high for my Northstar AGM battery:
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Great point! I need to see what is on the stickers on my battery since the X2Power website and specs PDF makes no mention of these requirements. I'm guessing it has requirement that'll mimic your Northstar as over 15V sounds very aggressive. Thank you for pointing that out.
 
Went with an AGM and put a diode in the fuse box to get the higher charging voltage. So far so good.

2019068
 
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Also, worth mentioning, I went this route as I have a dometic fridge in the trunk drawing off of this battery. 100 ah, fridge probably drains it to 50% after two days of no driving. Carrying a jump pack as a backup. Not perfect, but havent run into problems yet. Just an excuse to explore the areas that you camp in once pitching the tent.
 
OP has a stock setup, best option there is plain old flooded.

I have a yellow top 27f $300, stock it was charging around 70 percent. With fuse booster it’s a bit higher, maybe 85#. I had to buy a maintainer $70 and plug it in every few weeks. Ok for me as I’m going down the mod road. For stock why mess with the extra cost and complexity?
 
JohnJB said:
Do you have any specific hypothesis as to why my charger seemingly used to do the job and now does not? That's what has me :hmm:

Should I consider grabbing the G7200 charger with it's AGM+ setting @ 15.5V? Still it seems my little charger capable of 14.8V should get the job done. Odyssey's own chargers mention "just" 14.7V. I'm assuming these voltages are referring to the bulk stage voltage.
Click to expand...

It's likely that the battery has already been compromised and is at/near end of life. For the reasons already mentioned including incompatibility with the stock charging profile and underhood heat. Likely has "gassed off" too much electrolyte, because even though AGM is marketed as sealed, they are really a Valve Regulated Lead Acid (VRLA) type of battery. When subjected to too much voltage and too much heat (which they are particularly sensitive to vs regular old flooded batts), the valve relief vents electrolyte which can never be recovered or replaced.

2019164


Here's a snippet from the Noco charger manual. What's happening is that the charger is stuck between bulk (6) and absorption (7). Notice that the charging current significantly tapers off as it enters the next stage. A healthy battery should be able to maintain voltage (voltage graph above steps 6/7) as current is reduced to indicate to the charger that it's charged. That's not happening with your battery as it's no longer able to support charged voltage and it is drooping as soon as current is reduced. Which the charger is seeing so it never enters the next stage assuming more bulk or absorption charge being necessary.
 
TeCKis300 said:
It's likely that the battery has already been compromised and is at/near end of life. For the reasons already mentioned including incompatibility with the stock charging profile and underhood heat. Likely has "gassed off" too much electrolyte, because even though AGM is marketed as sealed, they are really a Valve Regulated Lead Acid (VRLA) type of battery. When subjected to too much voltage and too much heat (which they are particularly sensitive to vs regular old flooded batts), the valve relief vents electrolyte which can never be recovered or replaced.

View attachment 2019164

Here's a snippet from the Noco charger manual. What's happening is that the charger is stuck between bulk (6) and absorption (7). Notice that the charging current significantly tapers off as it enters the next stage. A healthy battery should be able to maintain voltage (voltage graph above steps 6/7) as current is reduced to indicate to the charger that it's charged. That's not happening with your battery as it's no longer able to support charged voltage and it is drooping as soon as current is reduced. Which the charger is seeing so it never enters the next stage assuming more bulk or absorption charge being necessary.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I really appreciate it. And your explanation aligns with what I was assuming might be happening based on my searching.

I have the Noco on my other vehicle right now to verify that it will get it into maintain mode as Noco asked I do that before perusing any warranty claim. I believe it will work and then they’ll just tell me the issue lies with my Land Cruiser battery, which it likely does per your explanation.

I might hit up the local X2 Power retailer and convey my issue just to see if there’s any chance of them honoring the 48 month replacement even though battery isn’t dead (nevermind vehicle charging compatibility). At that point, who knows. Sell it and have enough money to buy 2 “traditional” batteries. Hah
 
Fisher23 said:
Could you please explain in more detail exactly what you did here?
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I'll try and dig up the website, but somewhere on mud there is reference to an australian website that sells a fuse with a diode in it that you put in your charging circuit which tricks your alternator into charging your battery at a slightly higher voltage. This is more in the ideal range of what an agm wants to get fully charged.
 
What does the diode not work on 16+ ... ?
 
Fisher23 said:
What does the diode not work on 16+ ... ?
Click to expand...
because the alternator is controlled by the BCM, not a separate charge sense circuit and fuse. So can’t be easily “tricked” into charging at a higher voltage.
 
619TOY said:
because the alternator is controlled by the BCM, not a separate charge sense circuit and fuse. So can’t be easily “tricked” into charging at a higher voltage.
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If I want to change my setup to run an Oddyssey as the main and a lithium battle ready 100ah as an aux .. how it best to hook them up?
 
bloc said:
One vote for original toyota batteries, though it does help that my local parts counter has a discount website portal.
Click to expand...
A second vote here, based on the needs of the OP.
 
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