I tried everything, even pulled with a come along. I took the brake apart with great effort (heat and three jaw puller worked very slowly). Everything is locked up and rusted. It is in such bad shape, I ordered a complete brake assembly for a total replacement.
My WARN 8274 rebuild part 1..... (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter flintknapper
- Start date
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I have converted one of my 8274s to an superwinch contactor and ordered a second one for my other 8274. I will have two complete stock four solenoid setups in a week or so. They are working perfectly fine (1978 and 1981 vintage) and still have all the motor wires attached (4 AWG) and mounting screws. If anybody doing a rebuild wants these, I will give them away for the cost of mailing from Alaska. I guess it might be $20, but whatever the USPS charges. Just ask.
reddog90
SILVER Star
Any source on the superwinch contactor now that they're out of business? Not available on summit anymore.
reddog90
SILVER Star
And probably a dumb question, but is there any way to add drain/fill plugs without welding? I'd have to pay a shop for that.
1911
chupacabra
That's too bad, especially since Superwinch didn't make them, they just sourced them from somewhere else.
They're more expensive, but Warn sells one (that they put in their newer top-line winches). To be fair, it looks like a heavier-duty / more current capacity unit than the Superwinch one that Summit used to sell.
The case isn't thick enough; there would be hardly any threads to hold them in. That's why folks weld in bungs. But the change interval is pretty long (I put synthetic gear lube in mine, and I've never changed it in eight years) and the top of the gear case comes off easily when you do change it. Unless you're constantly submerging your 8274, I personally don't see the need for fill and drain plugs, but there is the cool factor no doubt.
reddog90
SILVER Star
Thanks. I was hoping to find a cheaper alternative than the Warn option.
I have written Summit to see if they are going to restock the superwinch conductor once Westin Automotive gets up to speed with the buyout of Superwinch. Have not heard back yet (may never).
I regard to the drain plug. After I get my gears back in, I am thinking about putting in a fill plug on the top only. I have a vacuum oil extractor. I am thinking I can pull the old oil with that and backfill with 6 ozs from the top. I was using the vacuum pump to change the oil anyway - so I didn’t have to take that heavy winch off the truck. I just need to find a place on the top that will allow the suction hose to get by the gears. The oil in mine was ten years old when I started my recent maintenance overhaul. No water - but it really need to be changed. 10 years was to long.
I regard to the drain plug. After I get my gears back in, I am thinking about putting in a fill plug on the top only. I have a vacuum oil extractor. I am thinking I can pull the old oil with that and backfill with 6 ozs from the top. I was using the vacuum pump to change the oil anyway - so I didn’t have to take that heavy winch off the truck. I just need to find a place on the top that will allow the suction hose to get by the gears. The oil in mine was ten years old when I started my recent maintenance overhaul. No water - but it really need to be changed. 10 years was to long.
- Thread starter
- #448
Yes, it is addressed early in this thread. A number of ways to do it. Fill plug is the simplest. Drain plug can be done easily with a Hex Pipe Nipple. The case is thick enough to tap a couple of threads into it then back it up (on the inside) with an electrical conduit nut. JB the threads before tightening it up (not TOO tight). Mine hasn't leaked in however many years old this thread is.
See post # 12
At one time they were an Albright unit, but later knocked them off for a cheaper one.
I ordered my Albright out of the UK.
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I drilled and tapped the top and bottom of my 8274 for fill / drain plugs. I just used 3/8"-16 x 1/2" set screws and a wrap of teflon tape. Hasn't leaked a drop in 4+ years.
I also drilled and tapped the end plate for grease zerks.
I also drilled and tapped the end plate for grease zerks.
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Does anything need to be done to seal the motor for longevity?
Reason I ask is because I rebuilt my 8274 with a new motor, and now, a few years later, the winch will not power out. It will power in all day long without issue. Contactor is remotely mounted under the hood, and the wiring checks out fine, so I'm suspecting water intrusion in the motor.
Asking to gain insight before I take apart the grill/headlights to get to the winch.
Reason I ask is because I rebuilt my 8274 with a new motor, and now, a few years later, the winch will not power out. It will power in all day long without issue. Contactor is remotely mounted under the hood, and the wiring checks out fine, so I'm suspecting water intrusion in the motor.
Asking to gain insight before I take apart the grill/headlights to get to the winch.
Looking for Part 2. Got to be the longest thread and holy thread revival on a warn 8274. 
. 1st thread post was in 2008.
. 1st thread post was in 2008.
- Thread starter
- #453
Looking for Part 2. Got to be the longest thread and holy thread revival on a warn 8274.
Yeah, my intent was to provide some photos and information in a couple of stages, but the original thread (this one) kind of 'blossomed' into a more complete 'how to' than I first had planned. Lots of good contributions through the years, so hopefully it is still relevant and helpful.
Just kidding. This should be a FAQ if it is not already. Great content indeed.
1911
chupacabra
hmmmm... I would think that if the motor were bad, it would not run in either direction. The motor doesn't care which way it spins, it runs the same either way, it only depends on which field gets power. The brushes and the armature are the same, whichever way it is spinning.
Since the contactor (or solenoids as the case may be) and the winch controller are what determines which way the motor turns, I would look at both of those first.
You can test the motor though, bypassing the contactor, and hooking it straight to a battery. Directions how are in post #3 in this thread here: Bad motor?
That's what I would think too, but the controls and contactor test fine.
Good idea to test the motor while it's still on. I should have thought of that!
I neglected to mention this earlier, but at Windrock earlier this year the winch started powering out after a few good long pulls. After an hour or two of sitting unused though, she would no longer power out. My thinking was that after it got some heat, the motor was willing to turn the other way, which is why I was considering water intrusion as a possible cause.
Will report my results whatever I find.
1911
chupacabra
When I first rebuilt my 8274, I replaced the motor with a new Chinese one from DB Electric. After only a couple of months and a few pulls, it started working intermittently, in either direction. The intervals of it working became further and further apart. It would have stranded me in the bottom of Dark Canyon in S. Utah, except I was with a group and other trucks had winches that worked. When I got home and tore the DB Electric motor apart, I found this:
A bunch of the copper had worn or burned right off of the armature! Again, this motor was brand new. Just really poor quality control I guess. So, if the armature just happened to stop turning when it had copper contact with both brushes, or if it got bumped a little and brought the brushes into contact with the copper, it might start again the next time.
I replaced it with a new Warn 9.5XP motor and all has been well for eight years and many pulls since.
But remembering this, and as you mentioned you also put a new motor in yours - what motor did you put in?
Interesting problem. Yes, I put a new motor in mine when I did the rebuild. Warn 70865
reddog90
SILVER Star
I'd like to mount my winch and use it as-is for a year or two before a complete rebuild. I definitely need new rope though. Would you guys suggest respooling with 5/16" or 3/8" wire rope? I can get 150' of 5/16" for $134 or 125' of 3/8" for $138 on amazon. Or watch facebook marketplace for someone respooling with nylon and selling their wire.
1911
chupacabra
If the places you like to wheel don't have many anchor points for a winch line, then a long line can be useful. On the other hand, if there are lots of trees or other anchor points then you may never need or use a long winch line, and the extra strength of the heavier rope is an added safety factor. That, and the rope spools out sooner and you get more pulling power with fewer wraps of rope on the drum. If you occasionally go somewhere you might need a long winch line, you can always carry an extension rope. If your extension is made from synthetic rope it weighs nothing and stores anywhere.
