My WARN 8274 rebuild part 1..... (5 Viewers)

[flintknapper]

I'd like to mount my winch and use it as-is for a year or two before a complete rebuild. I definitely need new rope though. Would you guys suggest respooling with 5/16" or 3/8" wire rope? I can get 150' of 5/16" for $134 or 125' of 3/8" for $138 on amazon. Or watch facebook marketplace for someone respooling with nylon and selling their wire.

5/16" is plenty strong for the 8274 and the added length is handy when you 'double line' (use a snatch block) or need to pull from odd angles. IF you plan to upgrade your motor (to a more powerful one) then 3/8" might be warranted.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

The question has to be asked, will the winch be upgraded with a heavier duty motor in the future? If so, 3/8" rope is the way to go.

 

[reddog90]

Motor upgrade is undetermined right now, but I would lean towards yes. But I was also thinking I would switch to synthetic during a full rebuild in the future. That could be 1-3 years from now so I just want something to get me by until then.

 

[reddog90]

Maybe I am crazy for not just getting synthetic line right now. But I figured I would spend a lot less right now if I get new wire rope and roller fairlead.

 

[flintknapper]

Maybe I am crazy for not just getting synthetic line right now. But I figured I would spend a lot less right now if I get new wire rope and roller fairlead.

Just go with aircraft cable (wire rope) for now. You'll just 'beat up' synthetic and have to replace it when you do your restoration.

Pick whatever diameter you like, but I've been running mine (since 1983) on 5/16" (hundreds of hours of use over the years in all kinds of situations) and never broken a line. I double line when appropriate.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Just go with aircraft cable (wire rope) for now. You'll just 'beat up' synthetic and have to replace it when you do your restoration.

Pick whatever diameter you like, but I've been running mine (since 1983) on 5/16" (hundreds of hours of use over the years in all kinds of situations) and never broken a line. I double line when appropriate.

I agree. If stock motor, 5/16" wire rope is fine.


@reddog90 upgrade to 3/8 synthetic when you rebuild with a stronger motor.

 

[1911]

I agree. If stock motor, 5/16" wire rope is fine.


@reddog90 upgrade to 3/8 synthetic when you rebuild with a stronger motor.

That's what I did also.

 

[reddog90]

Well I decided to just tear the whole thing down and see what I really have. Any tips on getting the clutch assembly out? It won't budge past what's pictured.

Also, any tips on getting my needle bearing out? It looks pretty bad and I'd like to replace.

Lastly, how does my motor look?

 

[1911]

Any tips on getting the clutch assembly out? It won't budge past what's pictured.

hmmm... mine came out easy; sorry no suggestions here.

Also, any tips on getting my needle bearing out? It looks pretty bad and I'd like to replace.

Is it really bad, or just dirty? There is not a whole lot of load on that bearing; as long as the rollers are not pitted, flat or loose/faling out it's probably OK. But if you have to pull it, there are are small pullers made for that. I have one to do older Harley cam bearings; I'd have to look up the diameter but it's about that size. Measure as close as you can the OD of the bearing and let me know - if it's close to my tool, you can borrow it (I'll mail it to you).

Lastly, how does my motor look?

The big question on these motors is how worn the brushes are. I see one of them in your photos, it looks long enough but hard to tell from here. Warn no longer sells replacement brushes. If they have some length to them (longer than the holder) they will last for a while.

You can clean the carbon from the brushes off of the armature with some electrical contact cleaner and some scrubbing with something soft, or even a pencil eraser.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

For the needle bearing, put a block of wood inside the case on either side of the bearing and use a socket to hammer the bearing in. Works like a charm.

For the clutch issue, will the motor rotor not slide out of the gear? You don't have a clutch issue, you have a gear issue. Slide the gear all the way in and give us a look at the end of the rotor shaft.

 

[reddog90]

@1911 - the needle bearing was covered in rusty orange gunk and I just assumed it would need replacing. I will work on cleaning it well and then see how it feels. Here's are more motor pics:

I have no idea what I am looking at/for. I've never opened up an electric motor.

Also, does this wiring look right? I know the plug was replaced by the PO. I hooked up jumper cables to my battery to test it before I tore it apart. I had power in but no power out. I could hear a click when I would hit power out on the remote but there was no movement. Maybe I had the jumper cables hooked up wrong?

@GLTHFJ60 - will get that pic later today.

 

[reddog90]

For the needle bearing, put a block of wood inside the case on either side of the bearing and use a socket to hammer the bearing in. Works like a charm.

I was having a hard time understanding this, but I found a pic. Thank you.

 

[Hack]

For the clutch issue, will the motor armature not slide out of the gear? You don't have a clutch issue, you have a gear issue. Slide the gear all the way in and give us a look at the end of the rotor shaft.

Yep, that's what I was thinking also. If the gear is stuck on the spines of the armature, he will need to 'free it up' somehow. Penetrating oil, pressure, etc. It's got to come off the splined armature in order to remove the clutch.

 

[flintknapper]

Well I decided to just tear the whole thing down and see what I really have. Any tips on getting the clutch assembly out? It won't budge past what's pictured.

Also, any tips on getting my needle bearing out? It looks pretty bad and I'd like to replace.

Lastly, how does my motor look?

Your brushes are fine. Everything looks amazingly clean. I'd polish up the commutator just a bit with some Crocus Cloth and scrape out any Carbon or Mica in the lands/grooves. Lightly oil the end shaft and slap it back together.

@1911 - the needle bearing was covered in rusty orange gunk and I just assumed it would need replacing. I will work on cleaning it well and then see how it feels. Here's are more motor pics:

I have no idea what I am looking at/for. I've never opened up an electric motor.

Also, does this wiring look right? I know the plug was replaced by the PO. I hooked up jumper cables to my battery to test it before I tore it apart. I had power in but no power out. I could hear a click when I would hit power out on the remote but there was no movement. Maybe I had the jumper cables hooked up wrong?

@GLTHFJ60 - will get that pic later today.

For a 3 wire hook up.

 

[reddog90]

Thank yall for the details.

@flintknapper what grit crocus cloth would you suggest? And do I need to do any light cleaning inside the motor case? I was also thinking about adding a bolt to the case so I can gun a ground cable to my battery.

And thanks for that diagram. Looks like my green lead from the solenoid housing needs to be moved. I might replace the plug and the solenoid housing so I'll make that change then.

 

[1911]

Agree with @flintknapper , your brushes look great, plenty of life left in them.

 

[reddog90]

@GLTHFJ60 @Hack

 

[GLTHFJ60]

You've got to pull the commutator out of the case. Is there something preventing you from doing that? I don't see any issues in the pic.

 

[woodsman 44]

will the gear slide on the keyed shaft? when you pull knob into free spool position?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

will the gear slide on the keyed shaft? when you pull knob into free spool position?

Yes. Look at the earlier pics.