My WARN 8274 rebuild part 1..... (5 Viewers)

[reddog90]

This seems to be as far as I can slide it on the armature shaft. Also noticed some damage on the drive gear. I can't seem to pull the armature out of the armature bearing either. Can I use a drass drift on any of this to get it to budge? Maybe on the armature shaft to drive it the rest of the way through the drive gear and also out of the armature bearing?

 

[woodsman 44]

Yes. Look at the earlier pics.

thanks...just saw it on post #468, so Im not sure what he's asking?...rotate the fork and it would should pull out?
then use brass drift to knock out motor shaft and bearing...

 

[woodsman 44]

This seems to be as far as I can slide it on the armature shaft. Also noticed some damage on the drive gear. I can't seem to pull the armature out of the armature bearing either. Can I use a drass drift on any of this to get it to budge? Maybe on the armature shaft to drive it the rest of the way through the drive gear and also out of the armature bearing?

Hmmmm, thats weird

 

[gnob]

You have to clock the handle so the fork is up like a U. That should at least free up the handle. At that point a drift or wood block to knock out the armature.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Can I use a drass drift on any of this to get it to budge? Maybe on the armature shaft to drive it the rest of the way through the drive gear and also out of the armature bearing?

Yes and yes. Like @gnob says here.

You have to clock the handle so the fork is up like a U. That should at least free up the handle. At that point a drift or wood block to knock out the armature.

 

[reddog90]

Thanks, I'll work on hammering the armature out with a drift tonight. Do you guys think this damaged keyed drive gear is worth replacing? I don't see many keyed drive gears available online. And the teeth that engage with the gear in the upper housing are actually fine.

Second, should I remove the gear in the upper housing? I have read a couple places that it is not advised by warn.

 

[1911]

Do you guys think this damaged keyed drive gear is worth replacing? I don't see many keyed drive gears available online. And the teeth that engage with the gear in the upper housing are actually fine.

The later motors (and any modern replacement motor) have splined shafts and require a splined gear. If you ever contemplate upgrading the motor, I would not bother replacing that keyed gear. Maybe it is a sign that you need to do the motor upgrade!

Second, should I remove the gear in the upper housing? I have read a couple places that it is not advised by warn.

I didn't when I rebuilt mine; the bushing/bearing seemed fine and it looked like more trouble than it was worth to remove it.

 

[Hack]

Second, should I remove the gear in the upper housing? I have read a couple places that it is not advised by warn.

Warn won't sell you the individual parts. They will happily sell you a complete upper gear case.

That being said, the bearings and shaft are readily available, from other sources. I rebuilt mine.

 

[reddog90]

Success! Time to start deep cleaning. Current plan is for a patina resto/refresh. I'm thinking of spraying the drum with rust converter and lightly oiling the case with BLO or fluid film for protection. I like the patina so I don't want to paint or powdercoat and I don't really want to clear coat it either. Thoughts?

 

[reddog90]

Are you guys relying on oil splash and climb to oil every gear like warn intended? Or are you guys greasing anything before reassembly?

Also, I am not going to disassemble the upper housing assembly. Does that gear shaft ride on bearings? If so, how do I grease them after cleaning?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Bearings get grease for sure. Gears, not really. I fill the lower half of the case after it's assembled, before putting the upper housing on. Gear oil poured over the gears is more than enough for the first startup. Remember, these aren't high speed gears. They won't wear or heat up much, if at all, before the gear oil gets there.

If you don't take the upper housing apart, then you can't grease the gears. Put some gear oil in there while upside down and move it around as best you can I guess.

 

[reddog90]

I was disassembling everything in the control housing to clean it up and install new stainless hardware. I can't seem to remove these 4 nuts though, the threaded studs are spinning inside each solenoid. Did I strip them and ruin the solenoids?

 

[1911]

Success! Time to start deep cleaning. Current plan is for a patina resto/refresh. I'm thinking of spraying the drum with rust converter and lightly oiling the case with BLO or fluid film for protection. I like the patina so I don't want to paint or powdercoat and I don't really want to clear coat it either. Thoughts?

I just cleaned the dirt and grease off of my cases and re-assembled and used them as-is. No protection other than the original cover that came with mine (though I don't use the cover all that much).

8274

• 1911
• Sep 22, 2017

Barnwell Mountain

• 1911
• Sep 22, 2017

 

[reddog90]

I was disassembling everything in the control housing to clean it up and install new stainless hardware. I can't seem to remove these 4 nuts though, the threaded studs are spinning inside each solenoid. Did I strip them and ruin the solenoids?

I called Warn customer service. He told me if these studs are spinning, the solenoid is no good....

Has anyone come up with a cheaper alternative to the $200 Warn 34971 albright style contactor?

Amazon product ASIN B000OV6JKA
I can get a whole new 8274 control pack, battery cable, and remote kit for $250. But it has 4 solenoids, not an albright style contactor.

 

[gnob]

Buy the temco contactor. Warn/Albright are overly proud.

 

[1911]

I called Warn customer service. He told me if these studs are spinning, the solenoid is no good....

Has anyone come up with a cheaper alternative to the $200 Warn 34971 albright style contactor?

The Superwinch contactor I used works great and was only $90, but with Superwinch closing shop it is NLA.

I can get a whole new 8274 control pack, battery cable, and remote kit for $250. But it has 4 solenoids, not an albright style contactor.

For close to even money, the contactor would still be way worth it IMO. Much simpler, way more reliable, a fraction of the terminals and electrical connections to corrode and degrade, no buss bars, etc.

 

[reddog90]

Buy the temco contactor. Warn/Albright are overly proud.

Amazon product ASIN B01553E2JGThis one?

In all my research, somehow I have missed Temco entirely. I was looking at albright, superwinch (NLA), Warn, and maybe Runva.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Buy the temco contactor. Warn/Albright are overly proud.

Amazon product ASIN B01553E2JGThis one?

In all my research, somehow I have missed Temco entirely. I was looking at albright, superwinch (NLA), Warn, and maybe Runva.

Any issue stuffing that into the cover and keeping the controller plug? Just curious.

 

[gnob]

Afaik this is dimensionally similar to the Albright which im pretty sure i saw somone fit theirs under a stock cover. Thread was here on mud somewhere.

 

[1911]

You'll have to get a little creative with how you position the contactor under the stock cover. It's not the contactor itself as much as bending the power cables to reach their terminals on it. Also be aware that if you have the old-style metal controller plug socket, it is much longer than the newer plastic plug socket. I replaced my older metal one with a new plastic one just for the extra space under the cover.