My WARN 8274 rebuild part 1.....

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Thank you for the replies. This confirms my nieghbors the so called "mechanic" is full of crap once again. He swore up and down that those where warn solenoids and I didn't know well, because I didn't! I have the four warn solenoids setup right now, and when one of those goes out I will spring for the Albright. Why fix what isn't broken....yet haha. Anyone need ford starters solenoids?!
 
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I have the four warn solenoids setup right now, and when one of those goes out I will spring for the Albright. Why fix what isn't broken....yet haha. Anyone need ford starters solenoids?!
Until you upgrade to a full fledged contactor (Albright, Superwinch, or Warn), you might consider carrying a couple of those in the truck. They will do 'in a pinch'. But I'd be cautious about using them as the 'be all end all' replacement for genuine Warn parts.
 
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Funny you should mention a spare in the pickup. Already done lol. Yep they are the only part I didn't replace on the rebuilt so it's bound to crap out on me sooner or later. Plan on the Albright this spring when cash starts to flow alittle more
 
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Was wondering if there is a torque spec for bolting 8274 to winch plate?...its cast aluminum so dont want to over tighten.

googled it but came up short......
 
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The bolts are 7/16", so Im thinking probably torque about 30- 40 foot pounds because of aluminum ...
 
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I have been following this excellent thread for about 2 years. This question is regarding installing Superwinch contractors. I have two 8274s, one on each of my work 4x4s. Both are late 1970s models that I purchased used (nearly 40 years ago) but in excellent condition, I have always used winch covers to hold back weathering and otherwise kept them maintained and lubricated. I have burnt up two motors pulling firewood trees or house logs out of the woods. I now keep a spare motor in my shop. My primary use has been winching my truck and boat off soft sandy ocean beaches when I would get stuck lunching or retrieving my boat (hundreds of saves over 30 years). Surprisingly, I have never had a solenoid fail but they are so old, I am changing to summit racing Superwinch contractors.

Because my 1970s style metal controller receivers extend deep into the cover housing, I am having a heck of a time trying to fit and mount the the new contractors. I may have to relocate the controller receivers. Does anybody have experience and suggestions.
 

AlaskanWheeler

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I relocated mine to an appropriate sized pelican case, under the hood. You'll just have to remake your leads going to an from the motor, not a big deal.
 
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The super winch contractor will fit on the original contractor plate but its a tight fit!

I've done two so far on both of my 8274's...luv that there sealed ;) and no problems so far..

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I relocated mine to an appropriate sized pelican case, under the hood. You'll just have to remake your leads going to an from the motor, not a big deal.
Thank you - that would work well on my suburban which has a fixed mount. On my F-250, the winch is mounted to a removable mount I fabricated to pin up to my Boss snowplow brackets. I seasonally change out the two attachments with quick connects on the 1/0 wire to the winch. I pretty much need that contractor to stay with the winch.
 
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The super winch contractor will fit on the original contractor plate but its a tight fit!

I've done two so far on both of my 8274's...luv that there sealed ;) and no problems so far..

View attachment 1951468

View attachment 1951479
Since you were able to mount the contractor dead center, You must have the models with the shallow plastic controller receiver. My older models have a metal controller socket that extend over 2 inches into the very center of the mounting cover. The contractor has clearance for maybe 3/8”. If I put the contractor on one side, I could relocate controller socket to the other side, but I really don’t want to lose the stock appearance. I wonder if I could convert to the plastic receivers that are on your units? I would have to change both the male and female ends.
 
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Since you were able to mount the contractor dead center, You must have the models with the shallow plastic controller receiver. My older models have a metal controller socket that extend over 2 inches into the very center of the mounting cover. The contractor has clearance for maybe 3/8”. If I put the contractor on one side, I could relocate controller socket to the other side, but I really don’t want to lose the stock appearance. I wonder if I could convert to the plastic receivers that are on your units? I would have to change both the male and female ends.
Yep, I have the plastic plug, much shorter than the older metal style...
 
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Yep, I have the plastic plug, much shorter than the older metal style...
After a lot of research and seeing a photo of a Superwinch contractor installed on an older 8472 with the deep metal socket receiver for the control, I decided there must be a way to make mine work. I ended up mounting the contractor in the very upper left hand corner. I had to cut off a potion of the metal flange on the backing plate to be able to raise it and widened the cable hole in the top center of the backing plate. The left side of the contractor is exactly flush with edge of the backing plate. No room for a bolt. I cut off the bolt bracket. I tack welded the remaking edge of the bracket to the backing plate. The right side got a bolt. In this position, the socket in the center of the cover would just barely clear the contractor. It had to be mounted so high, I had to shorten the “A” post on the contractor. It worked!

The cover looks exactly like original equipment. You can also see a support rod I installed some years ago to keep the control cable away from the front of the drum. This was after sucking the cable into the roller fairleads two times! Spot repairs are a pain when you are stuck! The base of the rod is a spring so it is totally flexible and works great. I fabricated the mounting frame to easily pin the winch into the Boss Snowplow brackets on the truck. I seasonally change the attachments.

This thread is great and enabled me to figure this out and wire it up. Thanks to all. I went to order a second contractor from Summit. They don’t sell them anymore. Superwinch has gone out of business.
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FA034CF6-8227-4509-A903-D3E8EFDB9863.jpeg
 
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After a lot of research and seeing a photo of a Superwinch contractor installed on an older 8472 with the deep metal socket receiver for the control, I decided there must be a way to make mine work. I ended up mounting the contractor in the very upper left hand corner. I had to cut off a potion of the metal flange on the backing plate to be able to raise it and widened the cable hole in the top center of the backing plate. The left side of the contractor is exactly flush with edge of the backing plate. No room for a bolt. I cut off the bolt bracket. I tack welded the remaking edge of the bracket to the backing plate. The right side got a bolt. In this position, the socket in the center of the cover would just barely clear the contractor. It had to be mounted so high, I had to shorten the “A” post on the contractor. It worked!

The cover looks exactly like original equipment. You can also see a support rod I installed some years ago to keep the control cable away from the front of the drum. This was after sucking the cable into the roller fairleads two times! Spot repairs are a pain when you are stuck! The base of the rod is a spring so it is totally flexible and works great. I fabricated the mounting frame to easily pin the winch into the Boss Snowplow brackets on the truck. I seasonally change the attachments.

This thread is great and enabled me to figure this out and wire it up. Thanks to all. I went to order a second contractor from Summit. They don’t sell them anymore. Superwinch has gone out of business.
View attachment 1952635View attachment 1952635

View attachment 1952634
Looks good and you got everything to fit! ;)
 
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Thank you - really enjoyed figuring it out. I changed the oil and generally tested everything. Found out, it won’t free spool anymore! I read an excellent thread on free spool problems a couple days ago, now can’t find it. Can anybody direct me to a trouble shooting thread on free spool problems?
 

1911

chupacabra
 
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Thank you - really enjoyed figuring it out. I changed the oil and generally tested everything. Found out, it won’t free spool anymore! I read an excellent thread on free spool problems a couple days ago, now can’t find it. Can anybody direct me to a trouble shooting thread on free spool problems?
Did you try powering out the line for a second? That will always allow mine to free spool.
 
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