My Videos: Changing the oil in the front/rear diffs and transfer case (2 Viewers)

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One quick question: I have a set of 4 Rhino ramps that I've been using while changing the oil and AHC fluid. Is there any reason why I need to get the weight off the tires for the diff fluid changes? I'm going to get the jack and stands regardless for doing other tasks like rotating tires and greasing the driveshaft but didn't know if they were necessary for the diff work or it makes it easier in some way.
I've used four Rhino ramps (sliders and skids) and they work fine.

Make sure you get very sturdy jack stands.

Being able to move the wheels/driveshaft will help with aligning them to get them into the right position to grease them.
 
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Rear two crush wahers.
front crush on fill copper on drain. Have welder standing by to aid removal of drain
trns case two aluminum

Does it matter which direction the rounded part of the crush washers faces? In other words, should it be facing the diff case or the bolt head or does it matter at all?
 
Does it matter which direction the rounded part of the crush washers faces? In other words, should it be facing the diff case or the bolt head or does it matter at all?
I don't think it matters, but I put the flat face against the diff
 
No jack required. I use H mode just to make getting under easier but the drive train height stays the same.

Of course I'm on 35s so there is that,but same on stock tires just a bit closer quarters

Got the rear done this morning. Put it up on the Rhino ramps and shifted the AHC to Hi mode. Made all the difference. Once I removed the spare (to make it easier to access the diff) I could actually sit my 6'4" self upright under the vehicle with my head in the spare tire area. I didn't stay that way much but it made it easier to get that little bit of extra leverage when I needed it.
 
I have 4 short ramps I made up - using a double layer of 2X12's. I drive all four wheels up on them when working under the rig on oil changes, etc. It's enough for me. It also works on my wife's Cayenne. Jack and jackstands available and used when required for certain operations.
 
Does it matter which direction the rounded part of the crush washers faces? In other words, should it be facing the diff case or the bolt head or does it matter at all?
Direction doesn’t matter, but torque does. It’s not very difficult to squeeze the gasket out entirely by going nuts on the wrench when tightening.
 
For what it is worth, I bought one of these, and it made changing the front diff and transfer case a breeze. The rear diff was easier without it as it is easy to just squeeze in the oil from the bottle as there is plenty of clearance with the spare removed.

Amazon.com: Lumax LX-1185 Black 18 oz. Suction Gun with 12" Vinyl Hose: Automotive

It holds a little more than half a quart, so it does require some refilling, but it pushes 18 ounces into the diff/transfer case in about 5 seconds. Way easier than the million pumps from a cheapo hand pump.

I also used this to suck the old oil out of my lawn mower. Worked awesome. Definitely worth $13.View attachment 1445168
I found this too difficult to use while filling the front differential. The tube was too large of a diameter to slide into the fill hole (that's what she said 😉 ) and therefore would have needed 3 hands: 1 to hold the tube snug into the mouth of the fill hole, one to hold the cylinder, and one to push the plunger.

That being said, I can see how this might be useful for other things. So, a question for folks: Do these need to be "cleaned" or flushed between uses? For example, I used the type of pump that fits on a quart bottle for filling my AHC fluid but wasn't sure if I could then use it to fill gear oil. I ended up using that pump but only after pumping a few squirts of oil into the container I had my old gear oil in to try and flush any leftover AHC suspension fluid out. I was worried that it might contaminate the gear oil and make it break down sooner.
 
I found this too difficult to use while filling the front differential. The tube was too large of a diameter to slide into the fill hole (that's what she said 😉 ) and therefore would have needed 3 hands: 1 to hold the tube snug into the mouth of the fill hole, one to hold the cylinder, and one to push the plunger.

That being said, I can see how this might be useful for other things. So, a question for folks: Do these need to be "cleaned" or flushed between uses? For example, I used the type of pump that fits on a quart bottle for filling my AHC fluid but wasn't sure if I could then use it to fill gear oil. I ended up using that pump but only after pumping a few squirts of oil into the container I had my old gear oil in to try and flush any leftover AHC suspension fluid out. I was worried that it might contaminate the gear oil and make it break down sooner.
I always push thru a squirt or two to purge. They drain pretty clean inbetween uses too.
 
I found this too difficult to use while filling the front differential. The tube was too large of a diameter to slide into the fill hole (that's what she said 😉 ) and therefore would have needed 3 hands: 1 to hold the tube snug into the mouth of the fill hole, one to hold the cylinder, and one to push the plunger.

That being said, I can see how this might be useful for other things. So, a question for folks: Do these need to be "cleaned" or flushed between uses? For example, I used the type of pump that fits on a quart bottle for filling my AHC fluid but wasn't sure if I could then use it to fill gear oil. I ended up using that pump but only after pumping a few squirts of oil into the container I had my old gear oil in to try and flush any leftover AHC suspension fluid out. I was worried that it might contaminate the gear oil and make it break down sooner.

I only use it for motor and gear oil. I can pinch the tip to get it in the hole.. I drain it well between uses.
 
Did my diffs and transfer yesterday. Had a little trouble getting the front diff drain plug out but got it. Replace that with the IS plug. Here is the method of filling the front diff I came up with. The concept worked just fine after I clamped the tubing to the bottle with zip ties. Also the 1/4" tubing I had and used was too small and took a very long time to gravity drain. You have to punch a hole in the bottle to vent it so it will drain. To get the last little bit in after 2 full qts, I just cut a large hole in the bottom if the bottle I had just drained and used the bottle as a funnel.

6BDE56E2-E46E-4C57-8396-A3AF5FA98717.jpeg
 
Does it matter which direction the rounded part of the crush washers faces? In other words, should it be facing the diff case or the bolt head or does it matter at all?
I have seen a video of the crush washer rounded side faces the diff case. Flat side facing the plug.
 
What are the service intervals here for the F,R and transfer case? Do you wait until 90K miles to service? Didn't notice the recommendations in the manual (although it's probably there). Nice work on the videos
Na change it every 30,000 km . Or if you have done deep water crossing do it asap
.
 
Seems the consensus is that 75W90 is ok for both diffs and transfer case, but the diffs call for 75W85 by Lexus specs. Is this still the case? I'll be changing fluids on a 2010 LX570.
 
Seems the consensus is that 75W90 is ok for both diffs and transfer case, but the diffs call for 75W85 by Lexus specs. Is this still the case? I'll be changing fluids on a 2010 LX570.
75w-85 is called for but you are unlikely to incur any damage running 75w-90. And for the earlier transfer case yes 75w-90 is fine, but when toyota added the extra parts no one really knows what the impact of a GL-5 fluid would be on them. So straight 75w is a safer bet, whether OE or ravenol.
 
75w-85 is called for but you are unlikely to incur any damage running 75w-90. And for the earlier transfer case yes 75w-90 is fine, but when toyota added the extra parts no one really knows what the impact of a GL-5 fluid would be on them. So straight 75w is a safer bet, whether OE or ravenol.
Thank you for the reply. What is the year that the Xfer case changed? The spec in my owners manuals still calls for 75w85 in mine. I'll plan on sticking to Lexus recommended fluid types, whether Toyota brand or other.
 
Thank you for the reply. What is the year that the Xfer case changed? The spec in my owners manuals still calls for 75w85 in mine. I'll plan on sticking to Lexus recommended fluid types, whether Toyota brand or other.
The part number for the case changed somewhere in 2010 or 2011, sorry I can’t remember exactly.

It is a long thread but people got into the weeds of it in this thread I started a while back: $80/liter transfer case oil - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/80-liter-transfer-case-oil.1059141/
 
75w-85 is called for but you are unlikely to incur any damage running 75w-90. And for the earlier transfer case yes 75w-90 is fine, but when toyota added the extra parts no one really knows what the impact of a GL-5 fluid would be on them. So straight 75w is a safer bet, whether OE or ravenol.
 
Thanks for info... 09 here, older t case.. Will be putting on 75w-90 on all 3 components..
 
Awesome thread...thanks.

Did my front & rear diffs and transfer case today. Went with Mobil Delvac 1 75W-90 for the diffs and Ravenol 75W for the t case in my '13 LC. Used the mighty vac to squirt in the oil to the front diff.

I've searched the site for the consensus on Mobil 75W-90 Delvac 1.

Anyone else using it?
 

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