My progression over the coming years with an interesting forty (1 Viewer)

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So I was looking up 35 inch tires, and Mickey Thomson Baja MTZ are a very reasonable price for a solid tire. The only problem is, the entire lineup is good proportions, except my rim size, which is a 35 inch tire and 14 inches wide. I think that will look weird, but overall probably preform pretty well off-road. I may have to invest into flares. I have hydraulic strrring. Thoughts? Most other 35s are 12.5 inches wide. Is 14 wide too much?

edit: I’ll probably switch rims as well to fit a wider tire anyway so question is kinda irrelevant now oops

edit 2: just ignore this, nothing to see here
 
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Pura Vida said:
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I'm thinking about this rough country 4 inch lift. Yes, I know, its cheap and stiff and stuff, but 650 dollars for a 4 inch lift with lifetime unlimited mile warranty is nothing to scoff at. I am young, so I can handle a stiff ride. I didn't buy a 40 series to have a luxury ride, so a hard ride is expected. I'm a high school athlete so a hard ride shouldn't be too bad, I would rather have the ground clearance when I go mudding. Certainly more appealing than a hell creek or ome price. Maybe when I get older, ill get a softer suspension, but for now I think this rough country kit looks good for my needs. Ill be selling my 31 muddies to pay for most of the cost of 35 inch muddies to go with
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I have the Skyjacker 4 inch lift and M95 shocks. Its a great lift and rides well. I have heard bad things about that Rough Country lift. Rides really stiff. I would think the Skyjacker 4 inch and then and a 1 or 2 inch longer shackle would be great with 35's.
 
Vandal FJ said:
I have the Skyjacker 4 inch lift and M95 shocks. Its a great lift and rides well. I have heard bad things about that Rough Country lift. Rides really stiff. I would think the Skyjacker 4 inch and then and a 1 or 2 inch longer shackle would be great with 35's.
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I did some researching, and I found I can replace my wheels and tires, and get a lift with a net loss of 1500 bucks. my 31.5 tires I currently have are basically brand new, and from a premium brand, so a set of 5 I could possibly sell for 1500 (wheel and tire). thoughts anybody? I got a wheel/tire kit with a decent wheel and firestone muddy, then I found the skyjacker 4 inch for 1k somewhere, 3k total. sell my current set for 1500 and boom, 1500 for a lift and wheels

edit: upon consideration, 300 for each wheel/tire seems a bit cheap, do you think I could get 1800 for the 5? that would leave me about 1200 into the wheels, tires and lift total, or 1500 into wheels tires lift, depending on how much i get for the old set of stuff
 
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Thoughts on this combo?
 
Anybody have experience with falken wildpeak MT? I know of the brand, so it probably isn't a cheapo tire, but I don't know. most people run BFG tires but they are sooo expensive.....anyone have experience with these tires? online reviews say they are really good, but I haven't seen anyone here talk about them
 
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You really won't like 35s with a B engine
 
AussieHJCruza said:
You really won't like 35s with a B engine
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I’m not gonna be taking it into interstates or anything so as long as it can go 50 or 55 mph max, it is fine, which I have seen other people do with a B and 35s. It’s a B with new internals anyway, so there shouldn’t be too much lost power. My commute isn’t too long, and I live pretty close by to a lot of stuff so i’m not doing 30 minute commutes every day.
 
Very cool history on the truck. FWIW my 40 came with 4+ " lift and very stuff springs. The ride is rough but tolerable. The real problem is the steering over about 35 mph. I'm actually going down to a 2" lift in part for better handling and to get the caster and driveline angles right.

I'll be parting with the taller lift when the new stuff arrives. Not sure the model of springs and shocks but I can take some pics if you are interested.
 
Chestcutter said:
Very cool history on the truck. FWIW my 40 came with 4+ " lift and very stuff springs. The ride is rough but tolerable. The real problem is the steering over about 35 mph. I'm actually going down to a 2" lift in part for better handling and to get the caster and driveline angles right.

I'll be parting with the taller lift when the new stuff arrives. Not sure the model of springs and shocks but I can take some pics if you are interested.
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yea, im considering a number of things, so any pictures or information is helpful. I heard different companies and configurations have different rides. I am trying to go for decent flex, because I want to actually use this as it was made, rather than just owning a pavement princess haha. I think a 2.5 is better for every day driving and looks, but 4 inch is better for off the road, and maybe town driving, which I hardly ever have to go on the interstate (even in my families more modern vehicles). 45-55 is the fastest I normally go. Don't forget I am very young, so I can tolerate a stiffer ride than most on this forum haha. some people registered on this forum before I was even born!
 
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jim land said:
On a side note , your body tub is more like a 76-77
Is the fuel tank under the passenger seat or under the body , 79 + is under the body
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I mean, it was titled a 1979 in Costa Rica where it was from. I have the old title from there. The tank is under the seats. I’m not sure how you would do the mistake of changing the year of the land cruiser haha. Maybe it had the tub replaced, or maybe it was one of the parts bin cars made in Central America. Never really looked into the actual details of the year, as I am not sure why someone would change the model year on the title lol.
1615605891756.jpeg

this is the previous owners title, and it says 1979. The owner did specify he changed it from a 6 seater to a 7 seater because of the bench seat. Maybe he mistakenly changed the year too haha

medir: upon closer inspection, the title states my car has 0 kw of power (0hp) haha. Classic Central American land cruiser

edit 2: sorry, not the title, just vehicle information, although the title says the same things basically
 
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jim land said:
No matter the titled , if you order body parts for a 79 , it will not fit
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Thanks for the help. This was really good to know! Not sure I would have figured that out for a while. I was planning to order peices to weld on to fix some holes, so this has some pretty good timing!

do you mind telling me some cues that gave it away? I can’t tell the difference from the outside of the tubs. What are the particular markers that give it away?
 
jim land said:
No matter the titled , if you order body parts for a 79 , it will not fit
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Sorry I edited my message, do you mind telling me how to identify the cruisers from the bodies? I can’t tell, and I’m not sure what to look for.
 
jim land said:
Show us some pics of the front, rear, drivetrain and frame
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I don’t have the car right now, but when I do, I’ll add a frame pic. Based on the rear photo with kick out window open, looks like a 77

F28F0DD6-31A1-4E59-9241-C9DCBBA2BF0A.jpeg


289A5EF9-25D7-4965-857F-A5BCF38E47E0.jpeg


D5EE7A10-47F1-48F4-8C42-8FEF49A17C73.jpeg
 
I second not jumping straight to 35"s. With a B, you will probably have a lot of problems overall when trying to haul everything around. They are slow to begin with, and it will only get worse. If you are still running manual steering, trying to haul a pair of 35" tires around is not going to be fun. Wider tires will make that even worse. Not to mention needing to trim the rear wells to get 35"s to clear when the suspension flexes. Jumping right in and spending money is nice, but I would really recomend driving this thing around for a while before making any major mods. Also, with the front bumper, I would look at getting a welder and building your own. It would be a pretty simple project, and welding is a great skill to learn.

I'm not much older than you, and it's great that us young people are keeping this hobby alive. Take some baby steps and get this thing driving before ripping it all apart to mod it. They are a lot more fun to drive than to wrench on.
 
DangerNoodle said:
I second not jumping straight to 35"s. With a B, you will probably have a lot of problems overall when trying to haul everything around. They are slow to begin with, and it will only get worse. If you are still running manual steering, trying to haul a pair of 35" tires around is not going to be fun. Wider tires will make that even worse. Not to mention needing to trim the rear wells to get 35"s to clear when the suspension flexes. Jumping right in and spending money is nice, but I would really recomend driving this thing around for a while before making any major mods. Also, with the front bumper, I would look at getting a welder and building your own. It would be a pretty simple project, and welding is a great skill to learn.

I'm not much older than you, and it's great that us young people are keeping this hobby alive. Take some baby steps and get this thing driving before ripping it all apart to mod it. They are a lot more fun to drive than to wrench on.
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Yea, that’s some good advice I think, I was going to start modding over the summer. For now I’m just setting up a blueprint and modifying the blueprint as more people give feedback! I was considering buying a welder to fix my body panels, and I think it is a pretty good overall investment. I think I am going to fix some bodywork first, then maybe fab a bumper myself. The car has hydraulic steering installed, so moving the tires isn’t the major issue for me. The power is the issue, but my commutes aren’t very fast anyway so I’m debating 33s or 35s. 35s give more clearance, and 33s can look wonky on a 4 inch lift, but 33s will give better acceleration (not that I have good acceleration anyways). It’s a major back and fourth for me. I just think it’s not really worth buying 33s, just for me to buy 35s later and waste a whole bunch of money. As far as I can tell, people can run 35s on a 4 inch lift no problem. Is that not true? They seem to fit 4 inch lifts fine to me
 
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