Had two new CBR radiators do the exact same thing to me in the angry pig.
Talked to Ron Davis when I had the third radiator built and this is what he recommends.
Builds My New Project
- Thread starter NikP
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Talked to Ron Davis when I had the third radiator built and this is what he recommends.
Jim, did you have a current going thru your radiator, or they just not good enough for bouncing off rocks?
Check AC too just so you know what it is.
CBR makes radiators for off road race cars and I believe they have a reasonably good reputation in that arena, with that said Ron Davis made some changes to my current system for the better and I believe he has a better understanding of the function of the cooling system and not just a fabricator making cool parts.
I did add more grounds to my car just for good measure and so far everything is good.
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- #805
Griffin response paraphrased: Pound Sand. 
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- #807
Pulled the radiator today. I was also able to determine where the leak was. I might be lucky. It's on the top seam and is leaking around 3-4 cross flow tubes. I had some low temp aluminum rod and tried to float it on but could not get it to do what I wanted. The heat from trying seemed to seal things up though.
I've ordered some stic-tite to melt on since the stuff I had didn't work.
I've ordered some stic-tite to melt on since the stuff I had didn't work.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
What’s your cap pressure?
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- #809
16-18
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- #810
This stuff is impressive. $23 for Stic-time from Amazon. After a couple of minutes of melting this on, I pressured things up to 18 lbs with no leaking. As I did some pressure testing after the first repair area, I found more areas where there was leaking. I ended up melting this along each entire side seam as future insurance.
I'm disappointed with the Griffin quality. At 6000 miles roughly 5-8 cross tubes developed leaks where they meet the side tanks. We will see how long the Stic-tite will last. I'm hoping my $23 purchase will avoid a $400 new radiator.
I'm disappointed with the Griffin quality. At 6000 miles roughly 5-8 cross tubes developed leaks where they meet the side tanks. We will see how long the Stic-tite will last. I'm hoping my $23 purchase will avoid a $400 new radiator.
Hope it works for you.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I thought normal radiator pressure was closer to 12 psi?
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- #814
A local illustration artist rendered my "raft gitter". Super cool. He has more renderings coming.
Sounds like your totally enjoying the move to CO. and the 55. 
Are these still available?
For Sale - Door Handle Plunger Gaskets – v2
Following in the footsteps of this thread: For Sale - FS: Door Handle Plunger Gasket Replacements Do your door handle plungers "stick" in the depressed position? Or are they slow to return? If yes, that makes it difficult to lock your front doors! If you don't know what I am talking about, or...forum.ih8mud.com
Scraps,
For anything that pulls more than a couple amps I added a copper ground meaning wire to the battery or terminal block and no longer rely solely on the chassis ground.
Thanks Jim, I had to think for awhile, but I'm pretty sure everything that needs grounding (small stuff) is through a terminal block back to battery. I have to look, but I think the starter is grounded to the frame. As I'm typing this, there are things I know are body grounded coming to mind. This could turn into a large project.
Sorry Nick for the hijacking, but my Griffin rad. is leaking as is yours, so this might be something a lot of us need to do.
Sorry Nick for the hijacking, but my Griffin rad. is leaking as is yours, so this might be something a lot of us need to do.
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- #820
No worries Ron, I ended up buying a new radiator as my leak repair didn't seal after all. I ended up going with the Champion this time because of warrant. I probably also need to do a little electrolysis prevention myself.
| Radiator model: CC337B-DP |
