My kid wanted a Jeep, she's getting a 77 FJ40 LS Swap instead (4 Viewers)

[Mike Shull]

The exhaust studs on an ls are like birfields on 40’s- eventually everyone has to do it. I went straight for the welder and it went pretty fast.
I’m impressed you got the rear dump headers to work. I had to use center dump and route it around the front of the oil pan. I’d love to see pics of the finished product.

I was able to get the rear dump manifolds to work. You may have seen that I had to cut and turn the flange on the left side.

@JKIII FJ40
My dad sold me my Cruiser, and it was my first car but this is way better! Mine was pretty worn when I got it. Love the build.

 

[archie73]

The broken studs weren't bad, two of them only took 5 minutes each. The one I had to weld was another story, had over a half an hour drilling before welding. Hopefully the exhaust manifolds will work, I have read so many articles on the forum that saw these on some ones rig and decided this was the path to take. I imagine a good exhaust shop can figure it out.

True enough. I’m curious to see what the shop comes up with- it gets tight on these trucks. When I had a SBC it was easier, Walker made an easy peasy y pipe. I couldn’t find any when I did my LS. Can’t wait.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

I was able to get the rear dump manifolds to work. You may have seen that I had to cut and turn the flange on the left side.

@JKIII FJ40
My dad sold me my Cruiser, and it was my first car but this is way better! Mine was pretty worn when I got it. Love the build.

thanks Mike, Ill have to check out your build

 

[JKIII FJ40]

I agree. If that rear overhang is as extreme as it appears in the photos then I’d recommend cutting off and positioning your own mounts. Fortunately you have another cruiser to reference! But before you do that make sure your front panels will align if you make that shift. There’s a limited amount of front to back adjustment that you can do with the fenders/grill/hood.

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just realized something, my tub doesnt have the two holes in the back like yours. I may have to make a hole either on the top or on the gusset underneath to access the two bolts for the rear body hold down.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

thanks Mike, Ill have to check out your build

found the article listing the manifolds I bought, post #36 LS headers - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ls-headers.1300709/page-2
@cruisermatt has used them a lot, I usually go with stuff I see on the forum on most of things I do. Uncharted territory is expensive.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

I removed the vortec oil pan, installed a Hummer H3 oil pan, and replaced the broken dip stick tube too. Took some effort to pound out the old one. Also removed and reinstalled the PS exhaust manifold several times. When I removed the manifold to pound out the damaged tube, I installed the tube. I then found out the tube needs to go on after the manifold is installed. So the plus side is that practice makes perfection I believe. The old pan looks bad but I didn’t find any sludge, burnt oil, or pieces at the bottom. I peeked up from the bottom and everything seems to have a nice Carmel color so I am guessing I may have lucked out with the FB special.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

I installed a new starter. The second pic is from the bottom, new parts always look good. The last pic is a can of Kroil, it’s the shiznat. Sprayed it on my windshield hinges that were frozen solid (up in the north we don’t drop the windshield) from non use. with in five minutes I could move them a little and in 10 mins they moved even more. I can’t believe I haven't used it before, beats the pants off of PB blaster and the WD40 penetrating oil.

 

[charliemeyer007]

"I do cars" guy on youtube has a hell of a time with some dip stick tubes. Must be why none of the new cars have them.

+1 for Kroil

 

[JKIII FJ40]

New parts today. I decided to change the thermostat as I had no clue on the old one and it is easier now then later. In the process of removing the thermostat I snapped a bolt. I tried drilling and tapping it out without success, add another unplanned part replacement and a trip to O'Reilly's. In hindsight, it was super easy and makes sense to change the water pump now instead of later. It was a good opportunity to test out my new digital torque wrench too, much easier than the old click style.
I also received a new bib, apron, and two new doors too.
I test fit the radiator, shroud and electric fan (well sorta). The radiator went in without a hitch, the shroud fit well too. The electric fan didnt work out though, I thought I measured everything well but missed it by an inch. Luckily the low pro fan will work and will be here in a day or so.
So, some progress and one or two set backs.

 

[fireflyr]

I ran into the same problem as @archie73 and had to run a Hooker manifold that dumps under the 3 hole and crosses in front of the oil pan sump. I thought I was screwed when I had to change my oil pan to a hummer pan for DS clearance but it all moved out of the way easily.

I’m running a 4L60e.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Following

 

[Augustiron]

@JKIII FJ40
What rad and shroud is that?

 

[JKIII FJ40]

I ran into the same problem as @archie73 and had to run a Hooker manifold that dumps under the 3 hole and crosses in front of the oil pan sump. I thought I was screwed when I had to change my oil pan to a hummer pan for DS clearance but it all moved out of the way easily.
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I’m running a 4L60e.

Funny, I have read your build twice already and still cant remember what you did for a fan. Your build really paved the way for me. I used the HUmmer H3 pan and for some reason one of the bottom bell housing bolts is misaligned. Also the old dip stick is too long and the H3 dip stick is too short with 6 qts of oil. All things to work out. I do think the new oil pan will give me more clearance for the drive shaft.
I know CruiserMatt uses the same exhuast and its worked well. I am tossing around the idea of running dual pipes down the side of the frame rail instead of a single inside, its just a thought.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

@JKIII FJ40
What rad and shroud is that?

Its the one that comes with the Champion LS radiator CC180-LS-180FS16 - https://www.championradiators.com/product/CC180-LS-180FS16 CC180-LS - https://www.championradiators.com/product/CC180-LS and the spal fan. Nice shroud but the fan didnt work as the engine is one inch closer that what the fan needed.
Let me know if anyone is looking for a 16" SPAL fan, I have a low profile fan coming this week.

 

[fireflyr]

That is weird with the dipstick. Mine registers the 6 quarts but isn’t accurate so I had to etch a new line. Maybe cut your long one to fit and mark it with a fresh oil change.
The fan I ordered from Champion along with the shroud that you have. I got the 2 1/2” option 3 Spal. It is LOUD.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

That is weird with the dipstick. Mine registers the 6 quarts but isn’t accurate so I had to etch a new line. Maybe cut your long one to fit and mark it with a fresh oil change.
The fan I ordered from Champion along with the shroud that you have. I got the 2 1/2” option 3 Spal. It is LOUD. View attachment 3835610

well, that was my mistake in getting the 3.5". I missed that when ordering. Does it run all the time or just some of the time? There is room for a stock fan and I could make a shroud if this doesnt work out, its always easier the second time around.....LOL.

 

[cruisermatt]

thanks for sharing. I remember running across a posting about a vendor who made custom drag links, unfortunately I cant find it now.

Just now reading through this thread, good work being done here. You probably saw one of my posts, we make the drag links and have them in stock, can ship as soon as today. They use the 80 TRE on one side and the 40 on the other, solid steel, made in the USA
We also have everything you need for the column in stock as well, and we also make a fan shroud for your however it is deisgend for the stock rad support location and we notch section the support (we have that piecepre-made as well)

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

I installed a new starter. The second pic is from the bottom, new parts always look good. The last pic is a can of Kroil, it’s the shiznat. Sprayed it on my windshield hinges that were frozen solid (up in the north we don’t drop the windshield) from non use. with in five minutes I could move them a little and in 10 mins they moved even more. I can’t believe I haven't used it before, beats the pants off of PB blaster and the WD40 penetrating oil.

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Starter coil needs a heat shield. OEM engines usually have them. Starters can overheat. Had that issue on my sons build

 

[JKIII FJ40]

Starter coil needs a heat shield. OEM engines usually have them. Starters can overheat. Had that issue on my sons build

Thanks for the heads up on the heat shield, I’ll start looking for one

 

[h82crash]

Nice work. I have no experience with that transmission mount but, my research found there are better ways of doing it. The issue is that the isolation mounts are at the extremities and does not allow enough movement which places all the stress on the transfer case. Some have had the case break. I would use some very stiff engine mounts to reduce torsional movement. And, speaking of torsion, do you know the tube behind the transfer case is a torsion tube? It allows the two sides of the frame to move but controls the flex. I think it's important to maintain that in some fashion, I could be wrong. Smooth sailing with your build.