My kid wanted a Jeep, she's getting a 77 FJ40 LS Swap instead (3 Viewers)

[JKIII FJ40]

For those who have done either an LS swap or a 60/80 power steering swap, bear with me as this is amateur hour. So on this installment of trial and error I installed a power steering box. I am not an expert but when I sat the engine in I realized I wouldnt be able to use the stock steering. I did some research and saw how many have done this. I am watching my funds so I found the iron pig template online, grabbed some steel at work, ordered some DOM tubing from Amazon and made my mount. I read online I could notch the stock shock mount, well after some hacking away and some trial and error I realized I shouldve just cut the shock tower and used the F250 shock mounts instead. I cut the head off of the rivets and finally got them all removed. What a PITA pounding out the rivets. After assembling the mount, I welded it all up, some spray magic and then mounted the power steering gear box. Overall it looks pretty good.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

Today I decided to tackle mounting the tub to check the mount points and overall fit. It took a while to figure out how to balance the tub with my engine lift. I don't advise doing this way and will devise another way to take it off of the truck in a week or two. I got it up in the air and attempted to roll it in place, unfortunately the engine lift lined up perfectly with one of the wheels. I enlisted the "kid" to help balance it as I wheeled the lift in and around the wheel to finally drop it in place. I plan on putting the bolts in tomorrow, hopefully everything lines up. While it was up in the air I removed the shipping base and found another ding that corresponded with the ding in the center of the bed.
I also noticed that this body is slightly taller than mine, I am guessing once the springs get some use and are able to flex they will be pretty close to the same height.

 

[B y r o n]

Who's body mounts are you going with?

 

[JKIII FJ40]

Who's body mounts are you going with?

Im using the energy suspension body mounts. I like what I have seen so far and I have their shackle bushings in both of my 40's.

 

[archie73]

For those who have done either an LS swap or a 60/80 power steering swap, bear with me as this is amateur hour. So on this installment of trial and error I installed a power steering box. I am not an expert but when I sat the engine in I realized I wouldnt be able to use the stock steering. I did some research and saw how many have done this. I am watching my funds so I found the iron pig template online, grabbed some steel at work, ordered some DOM tubing from Amazon and made my mount. I read online I could notch the stock shock mount, well after some hacking away and some trial and error I realized I shouldve just cut the shock tower and used the F250 shock mounts instead. I cut the head off of the rivets and finally got them all removed. What a PITA pounding out the rivets. After assembling the mount, I welded it all up, some spray magic and then mounted the power steering gear box. Overall it looks pretty good.

View attachment 3813448

View attachment 3813449

View attachment 3813450

View attachment 3813451

I have an ls and 80 box. It’ll fit but takes some trial and error. I ended up using the stock tower and notched it while sliding it backwards. If I recall correctly, I reused a set of holes when I slid it backwards. Works great even with the notch.
Exhaust wise, I used a set of hooker headers. They are center dump and I had to bring he passenger around the front to a collector on the driver side. I think it’s all in my build thread.
As far as the mounting plate for the ps box goes, it’s not brain surgery. Don’t over think it, just get all your links cycled and try to get the tie rod and draglink as close to the same angle as possible.

 

[pb4ugo]

I have an ls and 80 box. It’ll fit but takes some trial and error. I ended up using the stock tower and notched it while sliding it backwards. If I recall correctly, I reused a set of holes when I slid it backwards. Works great even with the notch.
Exhaust wise, I used a set of hooker headers. They are center dump and I had to bring he passenger around the front to a collector on the driver side. I think it’s all in my build thread.
As far as the mounting plate for the ps box goes, it’s not brain surgery. Don’t over think it, just get all your links cycled and try to ge
t the tie rod and draglink as close to the same angle as possible.

Essentially, I did the same thing with my sbc,scout box. I didn't use an outside scab plate. The previous wrench moved the rad to the pass side to center the stk fan shroud to the fan. This gave me more room for the box and didn't have to grind as much of the relocated stk shock tower.

 

[archie73]

Essentially, I did the same thing with my sbc,scout box. I didn't use an outside scab plate. The previous wrench moved the rad to the pass side to center the stk fan shroud to the fan. This gave me more room for the box and didn't have to grind as much of the relocated stk shock tower.

Yeah there’s so many ways to skin this cat. My radiator is in the stock location, but I think this has to do with the shape of the 80 pitarm. Just keep playing with it. It’ll fit.

 

[Tigerstripe40]

Subscribed.
I am in the midst of a FJ40 refurb myself, and keep going between an aqualu 3/4 tub and topnault 3/4 (too many of the pieces of my tub aren't good, specifically the 'B' pillars, and repros don't seem to be available, so it's getting cut up),

Edit: Fixing the flaws in this tub would be a lot simpler and time efficient vs patching the panels in my tub.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

Subscribed.
I am in the midst of a FJ40 refurb myself, and keep going between an aqualu 3/4 tub and topnault 3/4 (too many of the pieces of my tub aren't good, specifically the 'B' pillars, and repros don't seem to be available, so it's getting cut up),

Edit: Fixing the flaws in this tub would be a lot simpler and time efficient vs patching the panels in my tub.

Ive only seen the aqualu tubs from a distance, the only reason I didnt go that route is I like steel and the ease of repair at my house vs sending the aluminum somewhere else to weld/repair. The updated topnault tubs are better but still need some work. They did fix some of the previous issues but seems like they slapped on some body filler on the seams where they joined the A and B pillar and where they previously had a seam in the rear quarters. I hate body work so this was my compromise and Im sure the body shop can easily correct it and paint away. All in all it served my purpose of being close to OE, steel, and almost drop on ready.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

For those that used the 80s PS box, did you use the 80's pitman arm and if so, where did you center it. I put mine on with the tie rod opening slightly closer to the inside of the frame rail. As its curved I wasnt sure where it shouldve ended up. I believe the 60 pitman arm is strait out from the box. I will need to upload pics later to describe what I am stuck on.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

Power steering box alignment follow up. In some threads I read there were alignment lines or something to ensure things are where they should be. I didnt find any lines on my pitman arm nor on the shaft so I cycled it both ways and it does 4.5 turns so I split the difference. I then centered the arm on a guess. Here are the pics of where I ended up. The length is 38" from both attachment points.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

Here are pics of the Topnault body alignment. In the first pic you will see the body mount thats right in front of the rear tire. I have the front of the tub elevated, as it is now the tub sits too high and needed to be moved.
The second pic is right above the axle, there is a welded nut on each side thats about 3/4 to far out. I will need to remove the nut and widen the hole so I can secure this part of the tub. I have several more bolts in and found the rear of the tub slightly overhangs the rear cross member by about a half an inch.
Still some work to do before I take it off and send to the body shop.

 

[MAR FJ40]

Here are pics of the Topnault body alignment. In the first pic you will see the body mount thats right in front of the rear tire. I have the front of the tub elevated, as it is now the tub sits too high and needed to be moved.
The second pic is right above the axle, there is a welded nut on each side thats about 3/4 to far out. I will need to remove the nut and widen the hole so I can secure this part of the tub. I have several more bolts in and found the rear of the tub slightly overhangs the rear cross member by about a half an inch.
Still some work to do before I take it off and send to the body shop.

If you have OEM top sides, be sure to mount them and check alignment. The B pillar holes needed to be moved forward 1/4" or so in the 3/4 tub I purchased from them. Also had to adjust the rocker where it connects to the b pillar for the door alignment. Nice work on the build, enjoying reading along.

Here are pics of the Topnault body alignment. In the first pic you will see the body mount thats right in front of the rear tire. I have the front of the tub elevated, as it is now the tub sits too high and needed to be moved.
The second pic is right above the axle, there is a welded nut on each side thats about 3/4 to far out. I will need to remove the nut and widen the hole so I can secure this part of the tub. I have several more bolts in and found the rear of the tub slightly overhangs the rear cross member by about a half an inch.
Still some work to do before I take it off and send to the body shop.

View attachment 3814442

View attachment 3814443

View attachment 3814444

View attachment 3814445

View attachment 3814446

If you have OEM top sides, be sure to mount them and check alignment. The B pillar holes needed to be moved forward 1/4" or so in the 3/4 tub I purchased from them. Also had to adjust the rocker where it connects to the b pillar for the door alignment. Nice work on the build, enjoying reading along.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

Tub follow up. Its close but still need some work to be dead on. Over the axle they have a welded nut that doesnt align with the frame mount hole. I can either remove the weld nut and move the hole over or add a plate to the top of the frame mount and make it work. I need to ream the holes out a little and try and shift the tub forward.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

Drag link question. I need to figure out how to transition from the 40 sway bar to the 80 series pitman arm. I placed the old drag link to compare and see if anything is usable. From what I have read its 17mm on the sway bar side and 21mm on the 80s pitman arm.

 

[pb4ugo]

I think several vendors sell a shim to install into a fj60 pitman arm so you can use stk fj40 tre. I don't know if it will work on an 80 pitman. On my scout conversion I pressed in a starter shim into my jeep pitman.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

I think several vendors sell a shim to install into a fj60 pitman arm so you can use a longer drag link and stk fj40 tre. I don't know if it will work on an 80 pitman. On my scout conversion I pressed in a starter shim into my jeep pitman.

View attachment 3815963

thanks for sharing. I remember running across a posting about a vendor who made custom drag links, unfortunately I cant find it now.

 

[Tigerstripe40]

Ive only seen the aqualu tubs from a distance, the only reason I didnt go that route is I like steel and the ease of repair at my house vs sending the aluminum somewhere else to weld/repair. The updated topnault tubs are better but still need some work. They did fix some of the previous issues but seems like they slapped on some body filler on the seams where they joined the A and B pillar and where they previously had a seam in the rear quarters. I hate body work so this was my compromise and Im sure the body shop can easily correct it and paint away. All in all it served my purpose of being close to OE, steel, and almost drop on ready.

I have both a TIG and a pulsed MIG machine that will weld aluminum, and know how to weld it.
I don't like that Aqualu doesn't have the stampings, but was thinking of adding some 'tongue depressors' to match the OE Lines.

Looking at the fit of the body mounts, I'd be tempted to cut those off before setting the tub on the frame, then tack them on, pull the tub and fully weld.

 

[pb4ugo]

Try @cruiseroutfit , I think he offers shims, draglink, and custom pitmans.

 

[clrussell]

Drag link question. I need to figure out how to transition from the 40 sway bar to the 80 series pitman arm. I placed the old drag link to compare and see if anything is usable. From what I have read its 17mm on the sway bar side and 21mm on the 80s pitman arm.

View attachment 3815820

View attachment 3815821

What I have seen is weld bungs to fit each tie rod and cut to length tubing