My kid wanted a Jeep, she's getting a 77 FJ40 LS Swap instead (1 Viewer)

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Todays project update. Added the front gussets and tow hooks. Installed the H3 dipstick and tube, its now reading the correct amount of oil. Also installed the body mount side of the quick hinges I had. I remember reading about how most dont install the upper bolt, totally see why. It took me a while to figure out how to get the bolt in. The trick is to start with the highest inner bolt next to the exterior first. I used hose pliers to hold the bolt in place and start it. Then I could get a thread or two on by hand before adding the other three bolts. Still a PITA but now off the list. Only a thousand other things to do.

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Project update, I finished the transmission/transfer case support gussets. The advance adapters kit came with stout gussets but required welding in a scab plate and then welding the brackets to the scab plates. They also stuck out enough that I would need to do some additional brake line bending as well. The gussets were laying in the shop and are from a class 8 truck so I'm confident they will work. I also decided to bolt them in, I can always weld them later but for now it works.
I also installed a @cruisermatt relay rod too. Should anyone decide to install either a 60 series or an 80 series power steering box, do yourself a favor and save yourself a headache and reach out to Matt. He had the relay rod boxed up and shipped out the next day and in a matter of minutes was installed. The relay rod is stout and I surely recommend it instead of a hillbilly solution I was going to try.

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Removed the passenger side shock mount, I am installing the F250 shock towers. After I bolted up the passenger fender, I test fit the cut down shock tower and its right where I wanted it to fit. Got lucky for sure.
I then tackled the drivers side front fender. I made a card board template and with my little Milwaukee tool of choice I made my cuts. I got lucky a second time too, decided to call it a night as I pressed my luck twice already. I may need to trim a little more but we will see as the fender is all the way down and my other truck has the fender about centered on the bolt holes. Should the fender raise a little, no trimming needed.

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I still need to get back to you about column parts! I’m glad you liked out drag link. We also make the notch plate for the radiator support.
 
This truck looks fantastic. Great job. I put an L83 in my 40. If there's anything I can help you with say the word. I may have some pictures of how I did some of the stuff if its helpful too. I'm excited for the progress.
 
This truck looks fantastic. Great job. I put an L83 in my 40. If there's anything I can help you with say the word. I may have some pictures of how I did some of the stuff if its helpful too. I'm excited for the progress.
thanks, I enjoyed reading about your build as well. Thanks for the offer as well, I will surely reach out if I run in to an issue.
 
I changed the thermostat housing as I struggled to find an off the shelf hose that would work with the original t-stat housing that points to the passenger side. Some of my issue is that the motor is probably an inch or two closer to the radiator that on some builds. I found this housing that points straight out and after some time online (Dayco hose website) I found something that would work. I crossed referenced it to a Gates # and with some trimming on each end fits rather nice. I may have trimmed a little too much on the last cut and may need to make another one. At least I have an off the shelf item for future replacement. The alternative would be two 90 degree's and a straight pipe, that wouldve been easier but there's no fun in that. I need to tackle the top hose but need to figure out the offset for the air intake so I dont create an issue when both need to occupy the same space.

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Thanks for posting that ^^

Hose part number saved.
I got the champion LS radiator with inlet and outlet both on the passenger side. Just need to figure out the upper hose.
 
Todays progress report. I mocked up the rear fuel cell that came with the truck as I am still on the fence on a rear fuel cell or a tank in the cab. At least I can install it on the fly should I decide to go that route at a later time now that the holes are drilled and I know it fits. I do have a spare fuel tank that I cleaned and coated the interior I can use should I choose that option.
I also decided to tackle the windshield hinges, frozen pins from hell. I did break out my little cut off wheel and one side of the hinges have the pins removed. I need to apply some heat, oil, heat, oil, heat and oil and then some slight persuasion to get the pins out.
I also spoke to a local painter and I am waiting on a quote, unfortunately it will be almost a month before I can get it in if the price is right.

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Todays update, the last couple of weeks have been a little slow. I made the rear brake line, easy peasy. Not looking forward to the bulkhead lines, I saved the old ones so I can remake them (slow and steady). I also pulled my 4spd and split case from my 74 (its getting a 5spd). Lastly, I loaded up the tub and a few other pieces to send out for some body touch ups and then paint.

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Transfer case fun. The tear down was easy as I just put it together last year. I also cut out the cross torque tube so I could get the split case on to the tail.
I did notice the idler gear sets in just a smidge. I don't see any areas where it will hit the case but it is noticeable that the two gears aren't perfectly aligned. Of course I don't remember if the other one I just put together was dead on or not. I should take more pics.
Oh, and the garage looks like a bomb went off. Two simultaneous projects with pieces everywhere.

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did you install the spacer on the adapter output shaft? It would be about .700" long.
 
Does that gear have an input seal surface as part of the gear itself?
 
You have an 81-82 case where the seal surface is on the spacer, right?
 

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