My kid wanted a Jeep, she's getting a 77 FJ40 LS Swap instead (3 Viewers)

[fireflyr]

well, that was my mistake in getting the 3.5". I missed that when ordering. Does it run all the time or just some of the time? There is room for a stock fan and I could make a shroud if this doesnt work out, its always easier the second time around.....LOL.

Just runs when above 185F or so.

 

[archie73]

I ran into the same problem as @archie73 and had to run a Hooker manifold that dumps under the 3 hole and crosses in front of the oil pan sump. I thought I was screwed when I had to change my oil pan to a hummer pan for DS clearance but it all moved out of the way easily.
View attachment 3835569View attachment 3835568View attachment 3835574
I’m running a 4L60e.

Thread hijack incoming-

I did recently switch to the H3 oil pan. Partly because I couldn’t get the stock pan to stop leaking. Partly because of this guy right here

When I put the engine in and tested for interference, it looked good. Thing was this was flexing in the garage, on the trail is another story altogether. The plug has been massaged by the driveshaft-as has the Y pipe a couple inches below the header.

Now that I have the new pan on, I think I can see a way to route the exhaust a little tighter to the pan and away from the driveshaft. When I find time and motivation…

To be fair I have a SM465 and you have a 4l60- your experience may vary.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

Nice work. I have no experience with that transmission mount but, my research found there are better ways of doing it. The issue is that the isolation mounts are at the extremities and does not allow enough movement which places all the stress on the transfer case. Some have had the case break. I would use some very stiff engine mounts to reduce torsional movement. And, speaking of torsion, do you know the tube behind the transfer case is a torsion tube? It allows the two sides of the frame to move but controls the flex. I think it's important to maintain that in some fashion, I could be wrong. Smooth sailing with your build.

I think I can still retain the rear tube, I may have some modifications to do it but think I can make it happen. I plan on tackling it when I remove the tub and send to paint.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

Thread hijack incoming-

I did recently switch to the H3 oil pan. Partly because I couldn’t get the stock pan to stop leaking. Partly because of this guy right hereView attachment 3836185
When I put the engine in and tested for interference, it looked good. Thing was this was flexing in the garage, on the trail is another story altogether. The plug has been massaged by the driveshaft-as has the Y pipe a couple inches below the header.

Now that I have the new pan on, I think I can see a way to route the exhaust a little tighter to the pan and away from the driveshaft. When I find time and motivation…

To be fair I have a SM465 and you have a 4l60- your experience may vary.

Oh jeez, always something to consider. I checked my oil pan and I dont have the circled part. I guess I dodged one bullet.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

Just now reading through this thread, good work being done here. You probably saw one of my posts, we make the drag links and have them in stock, can ship as soon as today. They use the 80 TRE on one side and the 40 on the other, solid steel, made in the USA
We also have everything you need for the column in stock as well, and we also make a fan shroud for your however it is deisgend for the stock rad support location and we notch section the support (we have that piecepre-made as well)

Thanks for the feedback and additional ideas too. I bought the tie rod ends from CruiserTEQ and was waiting on them to respond on the relay rod, I may reach out by weeks end if I dont hear back. On another note, I did order the brake pedel from you. Looking forward to installing that when the time comes. Can you share some info on the column, I planned to reuse the stock column and a lokar floor shifter eventually.

 

[cruisermatt]

it's just a conglomeration of Borgeson parts I've found work - and a bearing to weld to the firewall bracket to support the inner column. The drag links we make are deisgned for the 40 TRE on the one side and the 80 on TRE on the other, happy to sell it without any ends so you can use the ones you already bought.

 

[pb4ugo]

Nice work. I have no experience with that transmission mount but, my research found there are better ways of doing it. The issue is that the isolation mounts are at the extremities and does not allow enough movement which places all the stress on the transfer case. Some have had the case break. I would use some very stiff engine mounts to reduce torsional movement. And, speaking of torsion, do you know the tube behind the transfer case is a torsion tube? It allows the two sides of the frame to move but controls the flex. I think it's important to maintain that in some fashion, I could be wrong. Smooth sailing with your build.

I've broken my fair share of 1 piece tcases along with other similar designed cases. They break near or thru the idler shaft. It's not the propeller crossmember causing the failures, I've seen stk setups fail too. It's the design of the offset rear output tcases. They suck. All the power is going thru the idler gear and shaft to the rear output shaft. The power and torque is trying to spit the gear and shaft out of the bottom of the case. I've read that the split case is a little more robust.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

New low profile fan arrived, only took a few minutes to install. Plenty of room for the fan.

 

[h82crash]

I've broken my fair share of 1 piece tcases along with other similar designed cases. They break near or thru the idler shaft. It's not the propeller crossmember causing the failures, I've seen stk setups fail too. It's the design of the offset rear output tcases. They suck. All the power is going thru the idler gear and shaft to the rear output shaft. The power and torque is trying to spit the gear and shaft out of the bottom of the case. I've read that the split case is a little more robust.

I'm aware of those failures, absolutely. But there are other failures where the adapter is broken when using the propeller mount, even on center rear output T Cases. I agree, it's not the mount causing the failure you're describing. As I said, I'm just relating the research I've found and not my anecdotal experience. My transmission mount can be seen in my build thread.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

New low profile fan arrived, only took a few minutes to install. Plenty of room for the fan.

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Thought I would share. Been where you are with similar radiators and electric fan. I am in TX and not like you in NY (cooler). That set up never could keep things cool in the summer. Consider a mechanical fan and shroud.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

Thought I would share. Been where you are with similar radiators and electric fan. I am in TX and not like you in NY (cooler). That set up never could keep things cool in the summer. Consider a mechanical fan and shroud.

thanks for the feedback. I looked at both options, I will be keeping an eye on it. Luckily with the new water pump, a direct mount should work if I need to change. I'm not sure I have enough clearance for a clutch fan. I did install a 187 degree thermostat if that will make a difference.

 

[clrussell]

Thought I would share. Been where you are with similar radiators and electric fan. I am in TX and not like you in NY (cooler). That set up never could keep things cool in the summer. Consider a mechanical fan and shroud.

I agree.

But I have also never been a fan of electric fans in any application other than 100% OEM installs.
Just never seems to be right. And one more thing to fail and then it’s a big uh oh.

Watching intently. Love any LS40 Info I can find.

 

[archie73]

I agree.

But I have also never been a fan of electric fans in any application other than 100% OEM installs.
Just never seems to be right. And one more thing to fail and then it’s a big uh oh.

Watching intently. Love any LS40 Info I can find.

I will say for my application, I like the electric fan. I have the fan out of a ford Taurus (Volvo of that era is the same). It keeps me at a steady temp even when I go to the desert. I’ve had hiccups, like any swap, but they were all self inflicted. My wiring skills are still evolving.

I could possibly push the radiator (stock) forward, but as it stands there’s no way I could fit a mechanical fan. My 5.3 is a finger width from contacting the firewall, so the engine can’t go back any further.

Location is also a factor- I’m in a northern climate and it may not work in a hot southern area.

 

[clrussell]

I will say for my application, I like the electric fan. I have the fan out of a ford Taurus (Volvo of that era is the same). It keeps me at a steady temp even when I go to the desert. I’ve had hiccups, like any swap, but they were all self inflicted. My wiring skills are still evolving.

I could possibly push the radiator (stock) forward, but as it stands there’s no way I could fit a mechanical fan. My 5.3 is a finger width from contacting the firewall, so the engine can’t go back any further.

Location is also a factor- I’m in a northern climate and it may not work in a hot southern area.

You are running an LS sm465 correct?

 

[archie73]

You are running an LS sm465 correct?

Yes. It’s great for a wheeling/around town rig. 35’s are enough overdrive for 60-70. Only thing I wish for is another gear between 2nd and 3rd. I commute over a pass with 10% grades. 3rd (1:1) drops the rpm’s to low, so it stays in second and the ls sings at 3200+ rpm. It’s an LS, so it’ll due it- but it’d be nice to have another gear in between.

Offroad I love the granny and Orion combo. If it’s to low use the other gears. The cast iron cases of SM465 and Orion are also encouraging.

 

[fireflyr]

thanks for the feedback. I looked at both options, I will be keeping an eye on it. Luckily with the new water pump, a direct mount should work if I need to change. I'm not sure I have enough clearance for a clutch fan. I did install a 187 degree thermostat if that will make a difference.

I’m running the same fan/shroud/radiator and never had any problems with overheating in August Central Valley California heat. The 5.3 ran steady at 208F and I’m running the 4L60e transmission cooler lines to the bottom of the radiator.

It’s a nice clean setup although the fan is pretty loud. I used a tall cylindrical overflow tank and a steam vent fitting on the top radiator hose.

PS the oil level with the hummer pan and 6 quarts does read accurately on the dipstick.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

I’m running the same fan/shroud/radiator and never had any problems with overheating in August Central Valley California heat. The 5.3 ran steady at 208F and I’m running the 4L60e transmission cooler lines to the bottom of the radiator.

It’s a nice clean setup although the fan is pretty loud. I used a tall cylindrical overflow tank and a steam vent fitting on the top radiator hose.
View attachment 3838291

PS the oil level with the hummer pan and 6 quarts does read accurately on the dipstick.

Great feedback. I didnt have any plans on plumbing in the transmission to the bottom of the radiator, something to consider. I guess I can try it and change it if it doesnt work. When you plumbed in the transmission cooler lines, did you fill them with some antifreeze and then connect or something else. I assume there will be some air in those unless I find a way to fill it up. I havent seen much about transmission cooler lines so I am probably over thinking it.
On my set up, I have the H3 pan with the 2009 Chevy Silverado dip stick and tube. Its a little high on the dipstick and I bought an H3 dip stick and it was not even registering. So I need to change to the H3 tube, find a different dipstick or establish new lines on the old dip stick. At least it has oil in it, and none of it is leaking on the ground.
Great feedback.

 

[fireflyr]

Great feedback. I didnt have any plans on plumbing in the transmission to the bottom of the radiator, something to consider. I guess I can try it and change it if it doesnt work. When you plumbed in the transmission cooler lines, did you fill them with some antifreeze and then connect or something else. I assume there will be some air in those unless I find a way to fill it up. I havent seen much about transmission cooler lines so I am probably over thinking it.
On my set up, I have the H3 pan with the 2009 Chevy Silverado dip stick and tube. Its a little high on the dipstick and I bought an H3 dip stick and it was not even registering. So I need to change to the H3 tube, find a different dipstick or establish new lines on the old dip stick. At least it has oil in it, and none of it is leaking on the ground.
Great feedback.

The oil cooler portion of the radiator is actually for the ATF and is separate from antifreeze. Your manual transmission most likely doesn’t need an oil cooler. I just mentioned it because a lot of guys running automatics for heavy trail use will run a separate cooler because they don’t want the chance of trying to cool both the engine and transmission in too close of proximity with the result of both running hot.
My radiator had two AN6 female fittings at the bottom of it. I ordered an automatic transmission oil cooler hose kit with 4 AN6 male hose fittings and plumbed them together.
The pan I bought came with the dipstick and tube, as well as all of the hardware as a complete kit which made it easy.

 

[thatcabledude]

LS oil pans have specific oil pickups, windage trays, dipsticks, dipstick tubes, etc

 

[fireflyr]

Good point @thatcabledude about the windage tray. I couldn’t remember the name of it. It and the oil pickup were different than the ones I removed with the stock pan.

Pic of the two pans. I hadn’t noticed that the PO had buggered up the drain plug and JBWelded it in place. JBWeld is great stuff, but only when I apply it.