I'm about to Raptor Line my tub, how high up your fire wall did you cover?
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The side rail that the hard top bolts to... is there not a piece of flat stock inside of the rail that you can drill and tap? I ask because i replaced both sides of mine with a set from pacol and it is designed to be drilled and tapped...
single stage urethane. I believe the factory paint was single stage.I really like the white but I disagree on the Orange from Toyota. To me it was a very nice color and especially with newer style paints , it would look real good. Did you use basecoat/clearcoat or urethane ?
The guys sprayed it up to slightly behind the dash so everything is protected from scrapes and boot marks. I like it.I'm about to Raptor Line my tub, how high up your fire wall did you cover?
bummer on the quarter panel work, the PO should have replaced the entire quarter panel, that is the reason you have joint showing.View attachment 1766556 View attachment 1766555 View attachment 1766554 And here are the sections I’m not happy with... the PO didn’t line the body panels up perfectly so I know that’s not going to be great but I’m not liking being able to see the junctions.
Yeah, I would’ve purchased the one piece quarter panels. He bought I believe two piece. So it won’t be perfect. Enclosed the junction of the front quarter panel to the rear door pillar. You can also see he used what looks to me to be thick DOM tubing on the rails of the quarter panels. Hard as hell to drill through but stout as a brick outhouse.bummer on the quarter panel work, the PO should have replaced the entire quarter panel, that is the reason you have joint showing.
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Well I’ll be damned. That does look just like mine.I’m pretty sure that is a set of pacol rear quarters. Mine came the same way (seam on both quarters and rail for the jump seats and hardtop holes not drilled and tapped). i had to fill the seam in to achieve the factory look. Bedliner looks clean.
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Yep. Who did the body work for you? I know you said it took a while to find someone reasonable, but I wouldn’t except anything that i paid for and wasn’t happy with...Well I’ll be damned. That does look just like mine.
The paint is laid quite well to me, but I’m not a professional body/paint guy. The gentleman is coming over tomorrow to drop off my window frame and discuss additional attention to a few areas I want. Any parts I have had issues with he’s taken back and fixed. Each one came back looking almost flawless each time.Yep. Who did the body work for you? I know you said it took a while to find someone reasonable, but I wouldn’t except anything that i paid for and wasn’t happy with...
I have new pins and plastic bushings. I’m talking about putting something between the hinges and doors like there is on the hood hinges. See pics for locations I’d like to use a rubber or some type of gasket.Are you asking about where both halves meet at the hinge pin? If so, there are plastic bushings you press in before inserting the pin. Mudders are also using brass bushings now.
Yep I know that stuff. It tends to turn yellow over time and holds mold/mildew very well. Here in the PNW everything is wet 9 months out of the year. I like the idea of trying to find a white material.Ahhh...that is a nice paint job....A clear, opaque, or white material would look better than black rubber. I’ve seen folks mention using plastic milk jugs in some applications.
There is a silicone type sealer that is designed to peel off when needed. Don’t recall the drying time. Wonder if it would work to smear some on, barely snug the screws down, wipe off the excess, and when cured do the final tightening. Dap makes a product called “seal-n-peel”, White Lightening makes “season seal” there’s youtube on it![]()