Builds My FJ40 Journey... (1 Viewer)

[Trailortrash]

In my experience it’s one of three things: a leak somewhere, a stubborn air pocket or you are WAY out of adjustment... if you are retaining all your fluid. Try the adjustment and air. You’ll have to bounce around between the two...... but if you keep at it you’ll get it... I had an fj that was the biggest PIA but eventually she succumbed......

How do you adjust the front disc calipers? That’s the weakest point most likely causing my brake light to come on on occasion now. Pumping the brakes once before applying them significantly increases stopping power and I don’t hit the floor with the pedal.

 

[googledave]

You want to adjust your rear drums and the brake rod behind your booster.... and bleed brakes.... also grease your caliper brake shield pins. Just the pins.... last time I changed out master cylinder, my brake rod adjustment was WAY off creating a similar problem as yours.... you have to remember that everything is a system, so it all gets adjusted and bled at the same time.

 

[googledave]

edit: brake shoe pins

 

[dad4x4]

I initially had an issue getting the master cylinder and brake booster adjusted correctly together. (There is a rod that sticks out of the booster that has to be set right with the master. There are several threads on it.) Once that was corrected the air pockets that were mentioned above was the other issue. I just kept working my way around until I finally got it to work.
Great work on your build btw.

 

[Trailortrash]

I completely forgot that when I replaced my master cylinder last time I screwed in the booster push rod to alleviate as much in line constant pressure as I could because of the large amount of drag I had on the front wheels. (It was a 4 drum master) A slight adjustment to the pushrod screw and bam! Brakes work so well you’d better be holding onto your dentures when I tap them! I adjusted the rod to where there is no drag from the front calipers and then I stopped with the booster screw and started backing off my drum pads via the PIA adjustment screws. It’s mostly free now but when I push the pedal and release it my rear drums drag a bit still. When I jack up the rear end and spin the wheels I can hear one pad still rubbing about 20% of a rotation and 80% of a wheel turn is completely free of rubbing. It’s been a 2 day on and off process. I also noticed my new master cylinder is leaking through the brake sensor on the bottom so I’ll be needing myself a new one of those....again...but thanks for reminding me about the rod adjustment.

 

[Trailortrash]

Oh, and while under the vehicle using colorful language that would make a sailor blush, I couldn’t help but notice a handsomely sized screw stuck in my tire.

 

[googledave]

glad to hear you got her going!

 

[Trailortrash]

So I have discovered where the leaking of the master cylinder is coming from. It looks to me like my two brake sensors are leaking straight through to the brass connector my wires attach too then dripping down the wires. Any thoughts on this cause? Will just replacing them alleviate my problem? Another question, here in the PNW it rains...and rains...and rains..I bought the original style wiper blades as I couldn’t find any aftermarket versions that attached to my wiper arms securely. What do you guys use? Do they stay securely attached? One of my new blades from SOR is slightly malformed so just a couple sections of the window gets wiped. Quite annoying really.

 

[bhsdriller]

Mine's leaking from the same spot. You can replace just that portion, maybe try tightening them up a little bit.
Mine helped for a bit but started leaking again. Will eventually replace

 

[archie73]

Another question, here in the PNW it rains...and rains...and rains..I bought the original style wiper blades as I couldn’t find any aftermarket versions that attached to my wiper arms securely. What do you guys use? Do they stay securely attached? One of my new blades from SOR is slightly malformed so just a couple sections of the window gets wiped. Quite annoying really.

Search VW Wipers. I forget if it was the beetle or rabbit version, but it'll use the modern "J" hook style blades. I ordered the wrong ones and had to reverse the bend, but it was easier than sending them back. They should be bolt on, though.

 

[Trailortrash]

Ok, need your input ladies and gents. After all my brake adjusting they are OK now but not quite perfect to me. My problem though is still the same. When I drive the Jalopy (25-35 minutes) and the rear brakes get warmed up they click when I press on the pedal. As I approach stoplights the click slows as each revolution of the wheel slows down but gets noticeably louder. It only does it when the drums are warm/hot. I’ve had 2 mechanics look at it and left both scratching their heads as they’ve never seen or heard of it before. Rear brakes are completely rebuilt, second pair of new pads, and drums show no sign of wear. Whole rear end was just gone through with an Auburn L/S put in. I had the break clicking problem prior to the rear end rebuild as that’s when I found my passenger rear axle seal was leaking. Only thing I can think of is to have the drums turned?