My 05 LX470 build thread

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Two days of PB blaster and a couple gentle thwacks with a copper hammer and my e brake is unseized. I think it’s burnt out though. To be continued.
 
@TLC2K5

Making headway into backup camera wiring. Could use some assistance.

I cannibalized the after market camera (that I successfully got working)

that setup, which worked, was as follows:
1- It had a yellow RCA and a trigger wire plugged into the main unit, then it joined with a pair of black and red wires
2- that yellow rca merged to a black and red RCA and plugged into the camera
3- both the yellow and black / red RCA had a loose wire that plugged into the trigger wire

So now:
1- ive kept the yellow RCA and trigger wire plugged into the back of the unit
2- I cut the end of the yellow RCA revealing white and black wires. I attempted to tie the white one into pin 40 CV+ (red)
3- I then cut the end of the black / red wire revealing red and black wires. I attempted to tie the red wire into pin 39 CV- (black)

No luck. Trigger turns on but no signal from the camera.

Do I need to grab pin 20 (6v+) and tie it in somewhere?
Do I need to grab pin 8 (ground) and tie the black wires into it?

Pics attached.


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@TLC2K5

Making headway into backup camera wiring. Could use some assistance.

I cannibalized the after market camera (that I successfully got working)

that setup, which worked, was as follows:
1- It had a yellow RCA and a trigger wire plugged into the main unit, then it joined with a pair of black and red wires
2- that yellow rca merged to a black and red RCA and plugged into the camera
3- both the yellow and black / red RCA had a loose wire that plugged into the trigger wire

So now:
1- ive kept the yellow RCA and trigger wire plugged into the back of the unit
2- I cut the end of the yellow RCA revealing white and black wires. I attempted to tie the white one into pin 40 CV+ (red)
3- I then cut the end of the black / red wire revealing red and black wires. I attempted to tie the red wire into pin 39 CV- (black)

No luck. Trigger turns on but no signal from the camera.

Do I need to grab pin 20 (6v+) and tie it in somewhere?
Do I need to grab pin 8 (ground) and tie the black wires into it?

Pics attached.


View attachment 3546878View attachment 3546879View attachment 3546880
You do not cut any wires from truck’s harness. You tap into the wire. The harness’s connector should be plugged in into the OEM nav module. You can use sawing needles to get to the pin from the back (the wire) side of the connector.
Step 1:
Test - ignition on, tranny in reverse, pin 27 must have +12V
Test - on the unit you should have “Reverse +” wire. Put +12V to that wire. The unit should switch to reverse camera mode and show white noise on the screen (nothing is connected to the unit’s reverse camera input)
If both passed, ignition off - next
Step 2:
Connect pin 27 (Reverse) to unit’s “Reverse+”
Test - Ignition on, tranny in reverse.
The unit should switch to reverse camera mode and screen should show white noise.
Most likely you do not need to connect ground - unit already grounded.
If passed ignition off - next
Step 3
Connect pin 40 to Reverse camera video in on the unit. If it is bell connector, to the middle pin.
Test - Ignition on, tranny in reverse
The screen should show the revers camera input. May be noisy.
If passed ignition off - next
Step 4:
Connect pin 39 to outer contact of the bell connector (video ground)
Test - Ignition on, tranny in reverse
The screen should show the revers camera input pretty clear
Step 5:
Make all connections clean, tidy and permanent. Test it’s still working and have some whiskey 🤣
 
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You do not cut any wires from truck’s harness. You tap into the wire. The harness’s connector should be plugged in into the OEM nav module. You can use sawing needles to get to the pin from the back (the wire) side of the connector.
Step 1:
Test - ignition on, tranny in reverse, pin 27 must have +12V
Test - on the unit you should have “Reverse +” wire. Put +12V to that wire. The unit should switch to reverse camera mode and show white noise on the screen (nothing is connected to the unit’s reverse camera input)
If both passed, ignition off - next
Step 2:
Connect pin 27 (Reverse) to unit’s “Reverse+”
Test - Ignition on, tranny in reverse.
The unit should switch to reverse camera mode and screen should show white noise.
Most likely you do not need to connect ground - unit already grounded.
If passed ignition off - next
Step 3
Connect pin 40 to Reverse camera video in on the unit. If it is bell connector, to the middle pin.
Test - Ignition on, tranny in reverse
The screen should show the revers camera input. May be noisy.
If passed ignition off - next
Step 4:
Connect pin 39 to outer contact of the bell connector (video ground)
Test - Ignition on, tranny in reverse
The screen should show the revers camera input pretty clear
Step 5:
Make all connections clean, tidy and permanent. Test it’s still working and have some whiskey 🤣
Oh s***. I pulled them from the connectors already, and one of them may have ripped. Gotta go figure out how to reinstall them into the plug & get some t-taps.
 
Any tips on how to repair what I’ve done?
Three options, non of them ideal.

The Good - identify the connector body and connector pins, find it somewhere like https://www.mouser.com/c/connectors/automotive-connectors/?contact gender=Pin (Male)&pg=2
Buy connector and pins and rebuild it. Pretty complicated.

The Bad - find connector on the junk yard and re-splice the harness. It is extremely difficult to find and may cost.

The Ugly - make sure that the connector body can be inserted into female counterpart. Straighten terminal pins back to original shape as much as you can. Whatever wires had been cut or separated from the terminal pins must be soldered back. Put heat shrink tubes over the soldered wires to protect from moisture.
Put white silicon grease on the terminal pins of the nav module connector.
Reconnect the connector with all the restored pins inserted into correct positions. Make sure everything works - pins are really connecting to theirs counterparts. Use epoxy or hot glue (worst case) to affix pins in place (this is why you need silicon grease - not to glue everything solid).

Another way is to go to some automotive electronics place, where they installing aftermarket toys, idk, may be they can fix it. Definitely you’ll be robbed off.
 
Ladies and gentlemen, the OEM backup cam is back in action. Reinstalled the pulled pins where they belong, and tapped into them using common auto zone T taps.
Used the long video cord that came with the aftermarket camera from Phoenix. The red wire goes to pin 27. The yellow one splits open into a white and black. White goes to 40, black goes to 39.

On the radio side the yellow RCA goes to “camera” and the red gets tied into the brown loose cable labeled “back “

Done deal.
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Thank you @TLC2K5
 
Solved my left turn clunk. Now that my springs have worn in a little, I got around to lowering my front torsion bars. No more clunk.
 
TL;DR I lost my lug nut key for my rock warriors.

So I got everything out to do my caliper replacement. Stuck my lug nut key & spline socket on the wheel and realized doh, I don't have any 1/2 inch sockets here to take off the lugs. Off I went to get a set. When I got back, to my dismay, the spline socket was still on there.... and the key was nowhere to be found. s***. I walked for about 25 minutes and drove for another 20min. Gone.

Wee...
 
Click at front end persists. Sometimes at bumps. Sometimes st turns. Do I need a new UCA?
 
Well. Figured out that my subwoofer isn’t getting any juice. Any tips?
It just does not work? Do you actually see nothing on speaker terminals?
Easiest thing is to find the terminals of the SW on the amplifier, and check it there before you started to remove trim.
 
It just does not work? Do you actually see nothing on speaker terminals?
Easiest thing is to find the terminals of the SW on the amplifier, and check it there before you started to remove trim.
I noticed theres no bass. I played a few bass test tracks and got nothing. I had the trim off to look at the ring at one point but I never disconnected anything. ....

I think the head units just being pesky.
 
View attachment 3541179
Smeared a healthy coating of this shin Etsu silicone grease on all the window runs, sunroof run, and every door seal including the trunk. Wiped it all down clear with paper towel afterwards. The windows fly now! Praying this solves my window whistle. Road trip tomorrow. Packing zip ties in case something drops out
Conversely I put this it on my infiniti / pathfinder’s window tracks and they got stuck immediately. I think it’ll loosen up and be good in the long run though. How can grease be bad for a window track.
 
Stuck about 5 min from my house with a no start. It cranks and nearly turns, but ultimately does not fully turn over. Checked my EFI fuse. It’s ok. Any ideas?
 
Can you give it a little gas to keep it running? I'm not a pro at this one, but sounds likes the spark plugs aren't sparking and it's just drying? The other thing I could maybe think of is fuel pump shot?
 
Can you give it a little gas to keep it running? I'm not a pro at this one, but sounds likes the spark plugs aren't sparking and it's just drying? The other thing I could maybe think of is fuel pump shot?
I just did the sparks last month. The coil packs had some slits in them but wasn’t too bad.

Fuel pump would be a bitch
 

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