My 05 LX470 build thread (1 Viewer)

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Did the fuel filter install go smoothly? No chance of a piece of debris that fell into the hose/pipe on either side? Determining if the fuel pump runs and whether there is fuel at the inlet side of the fuel filter are both great suggestions. Fuel pump itself is a breeze, just pull the carpet up and remove the hatch.
 
Did the fuel filter install go smoothly? No chance of a piece of debris that fell into the hose/pipe on either side? Determining if the fuel pump runs and whether there is fuel at the inlet side of the fuel filter are both great suggestions. Fuel pump itself is a breeze, just pull the carpet up and remove the hatch.
I haven't done fuel filter yet. Just ordered one. I'll see how it goes.

Not sure if its a coincidence but I ran techron thru the system on the last 2 fills. Didn't on this past one....
 
How is the Phoenix unit working out for you (esp with HVAC).

I ran a Joying unit in my 4runner with good success, so I am leaning towards an android unit vs Grom.
 
How is the Phoenix unit working out for you (esp with HVAC).

I ran a Joying unit in my 4runner with good success, so I am leaning towards an android unit vs Grom.
I'm not happy with it yet. The subwoofer doesn't work. HVAC is good. Keep everyone posted. I'm exchanging it for a new one.
 
Doing my daily, “am I missing something” check on the grounded cruiser. Came across this. No idea what it is but it looks important. Can anyone tell me what it is? Is it remnants of the AHC?
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I assume the part in question is the bracket?
TLC does not have it.
 
Thanks to @Kamran Khan ‘s generosity I have installed a new OEM fuel pump and filter this morning. The beast is back up and running!

I managed to strip two seat bolts going back in but I’ll tc of that another day.
 
I went through your build thread and found two things that can help you in the long run. In photos, I saw you have wheel spacers installed. Wheel spacers are very dangerous, and it is also not good for the geometry of your car's suspension. Wheel spacers have huge effect on your car's MPG, and god forbid if these break while you are driving in high speed, can put your life and life of the people around you in danger. Spacers put extra load on your car's engine also.
Sometimes the surface between the wheel spacers and the hub gets rusty and will throw off your wheel balance. Second thing I noticed is that you mentioned, you filled up your slow leaking tire with slime. Slime is good for only a short period of time, Once, I filled up my car's tire with slime, and it started getting vibration at certain speed. I took my car to a tire shop, and they told me that slime is the cause of vibration. Slime can also throw off your wheel balance. Because the liquid inside the tire can move from one side to other side.
In short, for your safety and safety of others, get rid of wheel spacers. You will feel the difference immediately after you drive your car.
 
Those 2 lower seat bracket bolts always get boogered up.
Thanks, at least I'm not alone. Thought I was a special type of bonehead for a sec. Did the whole fuel pump thing and botched the seat bolt.
 
New issue, losing coolant.
1- Need to figure out what the cheapest "pink" coolant I can get is without messing things up
2- Need to stop the coolant bleed

Clues:
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out of curiosity I double checked AA for red coolant. No longer carry Zerex. Went to Peak and Prestone.
Peak went up to $21/gal and Prestone is on sale for $18. Guess it's not much cheaper than Toyota coolant anymore.
 
out of curiosity I double checked AA for red coolant. No longer carry Zerex. Went to Peak and Prestone.
Peak went up to $21/gal and Prestone is on sale for $18. Guess it's not much cheaper than Toyota coolant anymore.
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If it says its going to be OK for my car then I should trust it, yeah? Its only going to drain out anyway while I figure out how to stop the leak.
 
Don't see much in the pic of the heater t's. If the hose clamp is tight the rad neck could have a radial crack. Seen it a lot on older plastic rads.
 
Don't see much in the pic of the heater t's. If the hose clamp is tight the rad neck could have a radial crack. Seen it a lot on older plastic rads.
I've heard a lot about heater t's, but never looked into it. I guess its time. I sure hope I don't have a cracked rad. What do they go for?
 
I've heard a lot about heater t's, but never looked into it. I guess its time. I sure hope I don't have a cracked rad. What do they go for?
$400-500'ish depending on year range, 98-02, 03+, def go oem. I have a mishi aluminum, but it came installed on the truck by the previous owner.
I assume the clamp(s) are tight? Worth a quick check, could be a simple fix. If so drain a little coolant from the pet and pull the upper rad hose to check the neck.

There are quite a few threads on rads and 'T's worth reading over.
 
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That was a royal pain in the ass! It blew a 10-amp fuse marked RADIO by the passenger seat fuse box. Got it all buttoned up. The sound needs some fine tuning, and I have no clue how to wire the new backup cam in. But for another day.

Thanking @TLC2K5 for calming me down & reminding me to go back to basics.
hi how do you rate this product?
 

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