My 05 LX470 build thread

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Thanks!
Camera is relatively easy to fix.
Under the passenger seat where you have navi and amplifier, one of the connectors has a wire with signal from the OEM backup camera. It’s a shielded wire. Sorry, do not remember exact pin, but it was an article on the Phoenix support with exact pin. You will need to run shielded wire from that pin to the unit’s reverse camera input.
Worst case - ask Phoenix support, they know that trick.
I would suggest to remove the passenger sit, much easier. Also, you’ll be rewarded - I found a couple of bucks of coins and a lot of dirt under the sit 🤣
Phoenix support was extremely unhelpful. But I will persist in researching.
 
I've been researching for a few days here and can't find a straight answer. And I don't want to make a will it fit thread & get slammed. Maybe if I ask here it'll fly under the radar.

Rock warriors, 1.5-2inch lift, 1.25" spacers

WIll 285/75r17 fit without rubbing? Would I have to do the pinch weld thing?
 
I've been researching for a few days here and can't find a straight answer. And I don't want to make a will it fit thread & get slammed. Maybe if I ask here it'll fly under the radar.

Rock warriors, 1.5-2inch lift, 1.25" spacers

WIll 285/75r17 fit without rubbing? Would I have to do the pinch weld thing?
I believe that will work, but I know plenty of folks on the site run that combo so hopefully they chime in. This build thread has that tire size/spacer size early on: Builds - Gerry's Build thread: "If it happens again I'm buying an Abrams" - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/gerrys-build-thread-if-it-happens-again-im-buying-an-abrams.1104010/

I have 285/75R17 on Rock Warriors on a stock height LC and have no rubbing even with mud flaps after just heating and bending the plastic fender liner, no cutting or hammering required. HOWEVER, I am using .375" spacers on the front only, so my scrub radius is not increased as significantly and my tire sits differently within the wheelwell.
 
I believe that will work, but I know plenty of folks on the site run that combo so hopefully they chime in. This build thread has that tire size/spacer size early on: Builds - Gerry's Build thread: "If it happens again I'm buying an Abrams" - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/gerrys-build-thread-if-it-happens-again-im-buying-an-abrams.1104010/

I have 285/75R17 on Rock Warriors on a stock height LC and have no rubbing even with mud flaps after just heating and bending the plastic fender liner, no cutting or hammering required. HOWEVER, I am using .375" spacers on the front only, so my scrub radius is not increased as significantly and my tire sits differently within the wheelwell.
Thank you !
 
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Just dumped 3 cans of fluid film black and one can of regular FF into and onto my frame, diff, and other sensitive bits. Should be sufficient for the coming winter. Looks better too
 
My subwoofer kinda sucks, so I got a refoam kit & dismantled my entire rear end just to find out its in perfect condition. Alrighty then.

Then I attempted to fix my backup cam with the new head unit. Took apart the backup cam, took a look at the factory amp, and then gave up. Electrical is not my forte.

Sounds till sucks on the phoenix carplay unit, but it looks nice & works reliably.

tempImageoO8ZSP.jpg
 
My subwoofer kinda sucks, so I got a refoam kit & dismantled my entire rear end just to find out its in perfect condition. Alrighty then.

Then I attempted to fix my backup plan cam with the new head unit. Took apart the backup cam, took a look at the factory amp, and then gave up. Electrical is not my forte.

Sounds till sucks on the phoenix carplay unit, but it looks nice & works reliably.

View attachment 3509321
What does it mean “Sounds till suck”? Can you please elaborate on it. Posting short clip would be nice.

Did you get this one? (The url is correct, disregard the text on the link)


Some possible reasons for grunting subwoofer: loosen bolts (I had it) and stink bugs behind the cone (my friend had it).

Camera: park assist block AISIN 85792-60050 connector:
Red with black +12 Reverse
Red: Video +
Not isolated - ground
Black/white - +6/ground camera power.
You need to run either 2 (video and ground) or 3 (video/ground and +12 reverse) to the unit, depending on the model of radio you’ve got.
Be extremely caseous not to shorten anything.
Use aspirin as flux (smells like … not pleasant when melting) and solder needles to your tester leads, put heat shrinks leaving only short tips exposed. Thus you can get to the pins from the connector‘s back. Leads like this sold on Ali (recently got me a set, not much better than home made).
 
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@TLC2K5 You're the best.


What does it mean “Sounds till suck”? Can you please elaborate on it.

So I first started the unit up I had no sound. I adjusted the "Sound field delay" area to where each quadrant has a different number - then I had sound. But it sounds like its coming from a tin can. And its a little warped, echoed. No clue how to fix it. Phoenix was not helpful.

Did you get this one?

I have this one - G6 for LX 470


Some possible reasons for grunting subwoofer: loosen bolts (I had it) and stink bugs behind the cone (my friend had it).

At this point the sound so terrible, it doesn't seem to be transferring sound to the woofer at all. Stink bug is a funny one.

It sounds sort of like a weird thing that would happen on my old normal unit in my Jeep Wrangler Pioneer wireless unit. If I got a phone call, the phone quality would come in fine, but then if music would play from my carplay durning the call it would sound like a tin can in the background, until the system stopped the phone call function. At which point the music would return to normal good quality.

Camera: park assist block AISIN 85792-60050 connector:
Red with black +12 Reverse
Red: Video +
Not isolated - ground
Black/white - +6/ground camera power.
You need to run either 2 (video and ground) or 3 (video/ground and +12 reverse to the unit, depending on the model of radio you’ve got.
Be extremely caseous not to shorten anything.
Use aspirin as flux (smells like … not pleasant when melting) and solder needles to your tester leads, put heat shrinks leaving only short tips exposed. Thus you can get to the pins from the connector‘s back. Leads like this sold on Ali (recently got me a set, not much better than home made).
This is above my technical ability. I have never soldered and am afraid of electrical stuff. I can use prefabbed connectors and stuff if I had a video to follow.
 
@TLC2K5 You're the best.




So I first started the unit up I had no sound. I adjusted the "Sound field delay" area to where each quadrant has a different number - then I had sound. But it sounds like its coming from a tin can. And its a little warped, echoed. No clue how to fix it. Phoenix was not helpful.



I have this one - G6 for LX 470




At this point the sound so terrible, it doesn't seem to be transferring sound to the woofer at all. Stink bug is a funny one.

It sounds sort of like a weird thing that would happen on my old normal unit in my Jeep Wrangler Pioneer wireless unit. If I got a phone call, the phone quality would come in fine, but then if music would play from my carplay durning the call it would sound like a tin can in the background, until the system stopped the phone call function. At which point the music would return to normal good quality.


This is above my technical ability. I have never soldered and am afraid of electrical stuff. I can use prefabbed connectors and stuff if I had a video to follow.
You need to find somebody to help you with it, there is no way to have camera working without playing with this connector, and taping units inputs into the parking assist.

Sound: unit has both pre-amp outputs and speaker outputs (it has built-in amp, check if yours does), connect speaker and see, if sound is the same … not good.

Forgot: unit sends 12V to power up the amp. You need to make sure the amp received it and it is on. I had this issue and the sound very weak. When I figured out, that amp is simply off and fixed it, then I had much bigger problem: it started to work as it should, but I could not get rid of the very strong background noise. After 2 weeks of fighting, 5 or 6 consultations an hour each, I had to return the unit.
 
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You need to find somebody to help you with it, there is no way to have camera working without playing with this connector, and taping units inputs into the parking assist.

Sound: unit has both pre-amp outputs and speaker outputs (it has built-in amp, check if yours does), connect speaker and see, if sound is the same … not good.

Forgot: unit sends 12V to power up the amp. You need to make sure the amp received it and it is on. I had this issue and the sound very weak. When I figured out, that amp is simply off and fixed it, then I had much bigger problem: it started to work as it should, but I could not get rid of the very strong background noise. After 2 weeks of fighting, 5 or 6 consultations an hour each, I had to return the unit.
Pretty sure my unit is just using the preamp & not delivering power to the amp. I disconnected my TV ECU without splicing anything and my sound is the same.

Working on figuring out how to:
A- get the amp powered up. Seems like I have to tie two lines together, or solder something at the rear of the unit.....
B- get the rear camera going again. I ordered a 6v - 12v transformer for this.

In other news, I replaced my 3 wiper blades.
 
Pretty sure my unit is just using the preamp & not delivering power to the amp. I disconnected my TV ECU without splicing anything and my sound is the same.

Working on figuring out how to:
A- get the amp powered up. Seems like I have to tie two lines together, or solder something at the rear of the unit.....
B- get the rear camera going again. I ordered a 6v - 12v transformer for this.

In other news, I replaced my 3 wiper blades.

Pretty sure my unit is just using the preamp & not delivering power to the amp. I disconnected my TV ECU without splicing anything and my sound is the same.

Working on figuring out how to:
A- get the amp powered up. Seems like I have to tie two lines together, or solder something at the rear of the unit.....
B- get the rear camera going again. I ordered a 6v - 12v transformer for this.

In other news, I replaced my 3 wiper blades.
Wiper blades is a serious step 🤣
I’ve posted a pin for +12v to power the amp.
You need a simple tester or multimeter (HarborFreight has both if you do not have one), switch system on and see if you have +12 on the amp.
Not sure why do you need transformer… you have 6v on oem camera, and 12v anywhere you want; if you want 12v On only when Reverse is on, you have it in the same connector.
Are you trying to install a brand new camera?
IMHO, I would make oem work firstly, and than start improvements.
 
After doing a lot of worthless stuff, I fixed my audio. Looped in the VAIS SLB3 unit, which is now working in conjunction with the phoenix unit to look both beautiful & sound normal.

I junked my TV ECU, spliced together the NAV / DVD wires, and got my aftermarket reverse camera running - but I don't know how to wire it all the way to the rear, so I took it out. Still can't figure out how to wire the OEM camera back up.

But I've got sound!
 
After doing a lot of worthless stuff, I fixed my audio. Looped in the VAIS SLB3 unit, which is now working in conjunction with the phoenix unit to look both beautiful & sound normal.

I junked my TV ECU, spliced together the NAV / DVD wires, and got my aftermarket reverse camera running - but I don't know how to wire it all the way to the rear, so I took it out. Still can't figure out how to wire the OEM camera back up.

But I've got sound!
This is a hardest part: camera harness goes all the way to the rear pillar, climbs up to the ceiling and enters the rubber accordion that goes into the upper half of the rear door. It goes around the glass and ends up in the middle at the camera. 3 options: 1. reuse old camera 2. Reuse old camera harness 3. Reuse nothing and do it from the scratch.
#1 Easiest, but old cam, old resolution
#2 No idea if it is going to work
#3 In order to do it you will need to remove a lot of plastic trim panels from the cabin and rear door. All plastic trim on TLC is bottom-to-top - remove bottom piece, than you remove middle ant top (ceiling). Also partially remove ceiling (drop down rear part of the ceiling) and deal with the front passenger carpet.
 
This is a hardest part: camera harness goes all the way to the rear pillar, climbs up to the ceiling and enters the rubber accordion that goes into the upper half of the rear door. It goes around the glass and ends up in the middle at the camera. 3 options: 1. reuse old camera 2. Reuse old camera harness 3. Reuse nothing and do it from the scratch.
#1 Easiest, but old cam, old resolution
#2 No idea if it is going to work
#3 In order to do it you will need to remove a lot of plastic trim panels from the cabin and rear door. All plastic trim on TLC is bottom-to-top - remove bottom piece, than you remove middle ant top (ceiling). Also partially remove ceiling (drop down rear part of the ceiling) and deal with the front passenger carpet.
I'm good with #1, but I don't really get what to do. I have the 3 pins from the TV ECU. I can splice them into a red white yellow cable, but then what? Does the TV ECU contain the video feed from the old camera?
 
View attachment 3505720
That was a royal pain in the ass! It blew a 10-amp fuse marked RADIO by the passenger seat fuse box. Got it all buttoned up. The sound needs some fine tuning, and I have no clue how to wire the new backup cam in. But for another day.

Thanking @TLC2K5 for calming me down & reminding me to go back to basics.
@roadsalt

1) How do you like the ride quality of the dobinsins suspension?

2) Are you getting feedback “noise” from the sound system? I have an 05 with ML and also I’m looking strongly at this Phoenix unit

Thanks for you input !!!

Following
 
@roadsalt

1) How do you like the ride quality of the dobinsins suspension?

2) Are you getting feedback “noise” from the sound system? I have an 05 with ML and also I’m looking strongly at this Phoenix unit

Thanks for you input !!!

Following
Stiffer than oem. Wish I had the ahc but it wasn’t in the cards. This is fine though.

No hum. But sound was awful until I paired it with the vais unit.
 
Stiffer than oem. Wish I had the ahc but it wasn’t in the cards. This is fine though.

No hum. But sound was awful until I paired it with the vais unit.

If you care to elaborate on either points that would be awesome!!!
 
If you care to elaborate on either points that would be awesome!!!
AHC was beautiful. Smooth and stable. Ate the road bumps up. Dobs are nice but it’s a conventional suspension. It’ll never be as good as the hydrologic system.

Phoenix had a bad Bluetooth connection. So I supplemented it with the VAIS Slb3 unit. Now it works great.
 
I’ve just become aware of a gap above my dissent bumper. Going to research pinning.

To do list:
-wire in OEM reverse camera
-get either new tires or replace the one slow leak tire
-tc of small hood chips come spring
-gap above front bumper
-install my pioneer roof rack (last piece comes Friday)
-tighten up e brakes. They’re totally nonfunctional
-get it dirty soon
 
Happy holiday MUD people.

Yesterday, in preparation for my rhino rack setup, I took off my OEM roof rack & gutter trim. I then put in the RR fit kit (with plenty of silicone around the new bolts). Luckily it wasn't rusty torx in there. Decent 12mm bolts awaited me.

Today, I disassembled my pioneer tray today to respec it for the LX470. Took a while to figure out how to put it all together, but got it done.

To my dismay, but not shock, I found out that Rhino Rack customer service led me astray, and I should have listened to MUD.

The RR rep on the phone said my 84 x 49 inch wide pioneer install would need:
RCH6
RCP02-BK
QMVA05

MUD research said don't get the QMVA05, get the QMPS10 to accommodate the more narrow tray.

Well, MUD won. I'm going to return the QMVA05, and I ordered the QMPS10. Going to take like over a week to get here due to holiday. Nobody nearby carries the obscure piece.

I found out that 6 QMPS10 pieces are included in the "PLHS4" kit if anyones in a pinch. A lot of price gouging out there on the QMPS10 right now. The PLHS4 is cheaper in a lot of places.

Update on my head unit - still sounds good.

That tail gate comes in handy. Nice place to change into a wetsuit. And wow, a 10'2 surfboard fits (barely) but fits inside the car. Impressed.
 

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