Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[GLTHFJ60]

What pump your run for wvo? I havnt found a good 12v one that doesn't cost a fortune or have a low duty cycle. 120V ones work great, but need a good sized inverter (speaking of which let us know how you like you hf inverter I am due for one soon) and my trash pump is even better but its loud, blah. I have found that dipping barrels is the fastest method next to the trash pump.

I have a 120v, 1/3hp HF motor, powering a Kayaba ( ? ) fluid pump. I just tested it today and DAMN is it fast! It pumps 2 gallons in less than 15 seconds. When I plugged it in, I turned around and my pickup was sucking air!!

I got the inverter primarily to run this motor. Moonshine will be my WVO reclamation machine. Once I get the inverter wired up, I'll be in business. Everything else is a go.

What does your 'trash pump' look like? Maybe I should start a thread in the WVO section describing my setup. Three barrel ( one heated ), dual filters ( including dewaterer ), single pump. Should work pretty well, but it's taken me a long time to set up due to $ constraints.

 

[StevoJonesFJ60]

Agreed, any diesel would be awesome

I'm excited to see your truck up and running as well! When is that video going to be up?

Video should be up soon, my buddy has it on his camera. I'm hoping within the next day or two.

 

[snowboardonsnow]

I know what you mean, I am always tweaking me setup as well. I have a small 2cycle trash pump its probably not even considered a trash pump. But they are basically used on farms or for floods and are usualy 4 stroke. They can suck up sand and gravel I think around 1/4 the size of the inlet. I have a 1" but most would be around 2-3" and up.
I really like my 120v pump as well, so I think going with the converter is the way to go.
When you collect out of your 60 will the barrel be on its side? Will it be plumbed straight into the barrel or hosed into the 2" cap? I am trying to figure the best way for less amount of mess. Right now I use a truck.
Sounds like your filter and dewater setup is about the same.
I settle in cubies or barrel, heat with 240v 3800 watt hwt heater and pump through my filters at around 100 degrees I use whole house 2.5x10" 5 and 1 or 10 and 1 Micron. Into the settling tank where I will heat it to about 200 degrees its all wraped good with insulation, ill come back two days later and it will still be above 100 then I will pump it into either a indoor small tank or my big outdoor tank. Sane thing I have one pump that will transfer between any tank or fill up my truck. But the one I use to push through the filter is a oil furnace gear pump so that part is slow. But it would push through at 100 psi no problem. I change filters if it ever gets around 25-30 psi which isn't often. What pump do you use for the filtering? Wouldn't mind something faster also what to heat it? Between my 3800 and 1500 watt heaters its still slow. About same amount of time for the oil pump to finish 50 gallons.

Anyways I am always looking to improve my setup!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I know what you mean, I am always tweaking me setup as well. I have a small 2cycle trash pump its probably not even considered a trash pump. But they are basically used on farms or for floods and are usualy 4 stroke. They can suck up sand and gravel I think around 1/4 the size of the inlet. I have a 1" but most would be around 2-3" and up.
I really like my 120v pump as well, so I think going with the converter is the way to go.
When you collect out of your 60 will the barrel be on its side? Will it be plumbed straight into the barrel or hosed into the 2" cap? I am trying to figure the best way for less amount of mess. Right now I use a truck.
Sounds like your filter and dewater setup is about the same.
I settle in cubies or barrel, heat with 240v 3800 watt hwt heater and pump through my filters at around 100 degrees I use whole house 2.5x10" 5 and 1 or 10 and 1 Micron. Into the settling tank where I will heat it to about 200 degrees its all wraped good with insulation, ill come back two days later and it will still be above 100 then I will pump it into either a indoor small tank or my big outdoor tank. Sane thing I have one pump that will transfer between any tank or fill up my truck. But the one I use to push through the filter is a oil furnace gear pump so that part is slow. But it would push through at 100 psi no problem. I change filters if it ever gets around 25-30 psi which isn't often. What pump do you use for the filtering? Wouldn't mind something faster also what to heat it? Between my 3800 and 1500 watt heaters its still slow. About same amount of time for the oil pump to finish 50 gallons.

Anyways I am always looking to improve my setup!

My barrel for Moonshine will be laying on its side with a 2" banjo ball valve in the main port. I installed another 2" fitting in the top so I could dump oil in more easily. As soon as I go to collect the first time, I'll post pictures of the whole setup.

I'm not 100% sure how well this will work, but I've got a engine block heater magnet thing that I'm going to try. If that doesn't work, then I'll have to come up with something else, maybe a water tank heating element or something.

When it's up and running, I'll post up a thread in the WVO section

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Johnny, On your 12V plug you put in.. Do you have an auxiliary fuse block that you are running power from or??

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Johnny, On your 12V plug you put in.. Do you have an auxiliary fuse block that you are running power from or??

Yes I do. I have a 6 fuse, fuse-block under my dash on the passenger side. I have 12 gauge wire running from the plug to the fuse block on a 30 amp fuse ( for that circuit ), and then 12 gauge wire running from the fuse block to the battery. I have it wired through a 30 amp relay that used to get its signal from a switched ignition source, but I've since changed it to a constant source.

There should be a picture or two of it in this thread back when I installed it in '09.

My new inverter requires 4gauge wire, so it'll be wired through a larger fuse and then directly to the battery.

 

[snowboardonsnow]

Yea you will need more power for heat. The nice thing is hot water tank elements are cheap. I was using the 120v 1500watt element which you can plug in anywhere. But it takes time, so I wired up a 240v 20amp circuit and then got a 240v 3800watt (not the 4500w). 1500w is about the max out of one circuit, but you can always buy two and run them on separate circuits. Like I said nice thing is they are cheap, I think about 12$ each... or better yet, if you have a 240v 30a welding circuit build a cord for that and buy the 4500w one.

Waiting to hear how the inverter works, I have been looking at the whistler because of the thermo controlled fan, do you know if HF changed theirs to thermo controlled or is the fan on all the time still? It would be much easier to just buy one there and have a good warranty on it.

 

[LandBruiser69]

Moonshine is looking incredible man!!!! I cant wait till mine looks that good!!!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Yea you will need more power for heat. The nice thing is hot water tank elements are cheap. I was using the 120v 1500watt element which you can plug in anywhere. But it takes time, so I wired up a 240v 20amp circuit and then got a 240v 3800watt (not the 4500w). 1500w is about the max out of one circuit, but you can always buy two and run them on separate circuits. Like I said nice thing is they are cheap, I think about 12$ each... or better yet, if you have a 240v 30a welding circuit build a cord for that and buy the 4500w one.

Waiting to hear how the inverter works, I have been looking at the whistler because of the thermo controlled fan, do you know if HF changed theirs to thermo controlled or is the fan on all the time still? It would be much easier to just buy one there and have a good warranty on it.

What are you using for your main settling / heating tank, an oil barrel? Why do you need to heat with such a high power element?

I'll let you know how the inverter works. I have no idea if they are thermal fans or not. I'm going to order up the cables later this week and then I should have it wired in the next two. I did get the 2 year warranty with it though, and on sale with a 20% off coupon, I got the inverter, warranty and two large clamps for $120 out the door. How can you beat that?

Moonshine is looking incredible man!!!! I cant wait till mine looks that good!!!

Thanks man! Yours is shaping up. As soon as you can give her more time, she'll be a peach

 

[snowboardonsnow]

yea thats a great price on the inverter, Just time, it would take hours with the 1500w and now that we moved its in the garage of the house I rent out so its not like I can just set a timers and go hang out inside and come back in a few hours. I guess... thats the main reason

 

[GLTHFJ60]

yea thats a great price on the inverter, Just time, it would take hours with the 1500w and now that we moved its in the garage of the house I rent out so its not like I can just set a timers and go hang out inside and come back in a few hours. I guess... thats the main reason

Ok, that makes sense.

- So when you pull your oil into your settling tank, how hot do you get it before you filter and then put into the cruiser?
- Is there a need for heating the oil up to a certain temp?

This is what I was thinking of for process:
- pump out of restaurant into moonshine's tank
- pump out of moonshine's tank into settling tank ( at house )
- heat in settling tank for 2 hours with my heater to get the temp up a bit
- let sit for a day and then pump hot oil through filters and into car
- heating system in the car will take care of heating the oil to proper temp for pulling into the injection pump

 

[snowboardonsnow]

I would filter pre dewater post first settle. You want all those bits and pieces already filtered out water clings to them and it's just best to get them out of the equation pre dewater.

This is my ideal way, settle in cubbies and poor off top into barrel heat barrel to 90-100 degrees and filter then once in the dewater barrel heat to 170-200 there is no set temp just don't go overe 212 becaus if you have puddle of water in the bottum it can erupt they say. The main them is to get it above and keep it above say 100 degrees for as long as possible two days at least. Without re heating it! You don't want to start the convection current up. I really prefer to settle in cubbies, then you can poor all the drags into one and let set again and you will get another couple gallons off that cubes full of 6 cubbies drags. And just keep doing that till its full of s***.
But I will still just settle it in a barrel sometimes, if I do that I will heat to 90-100 off the top to keep the convection currents from stirring to much stuff up.
I try to transfer pump as little as possible but it's hard not to sometimes. If I where you I would pump off moonshine into cubbies if you can though, then you know just what is going into your dewater tank. That an I would try to filter pre dewater, it will keep your dewatered tank nice and clean and the only thing in it should be oil and water, and water will stay easily on the bottum, if it's mixed with crap it will float around get sucked up into the filter, the particle may stick but over time the water can break free and continue on to your storage tank....


That's my theory and somewhat a general consensus.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I would filter pre dewater post first settle. You want all those bits and pieces already filtered out water clings to them and it's just best to get them out of the equation pre dewater.
<snip>
That's my theory and somewhat a general consensus.

Thanks man! We'll revisit this in a thread I create in the WVO section here on 'Mud. It'll be a week or so before I get to it, but I'll get on it.


In other news, Moonshine has had an eventful weekend / early week this week! She got a new set of tires, she got a set of WagonGear rear quarter panels and I picked up a new motor for her. 4BTA, HERE I COME!!

4BTA will be bolted with a cheby bellhousing to a ranger OD box, then to my existing H55 and split case. This will put me at optimal RPMs for cruising the highway. More updates as I find time to delve into the motor

First thing is first, the motor. It's a 1996 build 4BTA out of a chevy stepvan. She's a little dirty, but nothing a little elbow grease can't fix.

Donor:

Strapped in the pickup, ready to be brought home:

Info plate:

Over the next month, this motor will get completely cleaned and parts will be repainted. She should be installed before the end of August


Next, Kevin @ WagonGear shipped me a set of his side panels, which I got installed today. I LOVE them. I can't wait to put them to use!!

They are pure artwork and Kevin is a master artist

Install pics;

Cut a hole in the DS panel for a 12v plug:

Finally, installed:

Lastly, I got a set of 285/75R16 take-offs mounted on FZJ80 alloys that I painted black.

**NOTE**
There are two styles of FZJ80 alloys. One, the 93-94, has steel inserts and requires acorn style lugnuts. The later, 95-97 style, does not have the steel insert and requires the washer + shank style lugnuts. I have the former, so I reused the lugnuts I had for my steel wheels.
**NOTE**

The front looks pretty funny, but the difference in drive-ability is drastic. I feel like I got my truck back!!

That's it for now. More updates as I work on this 4BTA

 

[snowboardonsnow]

hey! nice!!!! oh man you all are making me jealous with those cummins engines!

 

[boots4]

I knew something was going on with what and where you've been posting lately. Congrats! While noisy for some the cummins is a kick butt engine and stands up to abuse. They are strong and can make great power.

Any mods planned? I'd at least suggest a 366 (3200rpm) spring since you'll be running a stick. Besides that, start at stock for a baseline and go from there. A little tuning can wake then up and put a grin on your face. I look forward to following your swap.

 

[Wyoming]

Don't think I have forgotten you about the bell housing and Ranger info. I've just been crazy busy with the jobs. I haven't even gotten to work on the project for a couple of weeks.

I like the idea of a 4bt, Ranger O.D., H55 and original transfer case. Wait, do I detect a FF rear axle in those pictures? Maybe our rigs were twins seperated at the factory?

 

[gothodgie]

I totally understand the road tires... but they sure look dinky...

great find on the box truck... good luck with the swap...

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Johnny, I'm jealous... I want the diesel too. I'm gonna have to pass on KR's cargo side panels but, will probably pull the trigger on the tailgate panel soon.

Looking good, keep it up brother.

J

 

[GLTHFJ60]

hey! nice!!!! oh man you all are making me jealous with those cummins engines!

You've already got a diesel in your cruiser, I'm the one who is jealous!!

I knew something was going on with what and where you've been posting lately. Congrats! While noisy for some the cummins is a kick butt engine and stands up to abuse. They are strong and can make great power.

Any mods planned? I'd at least suggest a 366 (3200rpm) spring since you'll be running a stick. Besides that, start at stock for a baseline and go from there. A little tuning can wake then up and put a grin on your face. I look forward to following your swap.

Yup, I've been planning on buying this motor for about a month now. I didn't want to post up before I actually had it in my garage though because you never know when something might go wrong.

From reading your build over and over, above all else, it seems like this is a robust motor. I can't wait to get it in!

The only mod I plan at first is the 3200 RPM spring, like you said, for drivability's sake. Once she's all together, then I hope to get her dyno'd as a baseline and then some tweaking. Maybe stronger injectors, WH1C, pump tuning, etc. The sky is the limit! This motor is supposed to have relatively low miles, so it should be a perfect candidate for producing driveshaft twisting and axle breaking amounts of power

Don't think I have forgotten you about the bell housing and Ranger info. I've just been crazy busy with the jobs. I haven't even gotten to work on the project for a couple of weeks.

I like the idea of a 4bt, Ranger O.D., H55 and original transfer case. Wait, do I detect a FF rear axle in those pictures? Maybe our rigs were twins seperated at the factory?

No worries man! I will appreciate that info when you get time.

You should my driveline plans because it was your idea! After going through the numbers, I've found that the ranger is the only way I'll get the gear reduction I want for the highway. I'm restricted by my differential ratio, 4.10, which is what the E-Lockers I like come with from the factory.

In addition, yes, that is a FJ60 FF rear axle, with PP axle shafts and a FZJ80 e-locker. Great minds think alike!!

I totally understand the road tires... but they sure look dinky...

great find on the box truck... good luck with the swap...

The tires do look pretty dinky, don't they? Oh well, they're just for the street. Function over form, right?

Thanks for the good wishes!!

Johnny, I'm jealous... I want the diesel too. I'm gonna have to pass on KR's cargo side panels but, will probably pull the trigger on the tailgate panel soon.

Looking good, keep it up brother.

J

Thank you sir!

The side panels are expensive, but I think it's worth the money. So much unused storage space in there otherwise!!

 

[The Phoenician]

Congrats on getting the engine. I'm jealous you'll get yours done before mine.