Do you plan on running any sound deadener at the firewall or under the front seats at all? I know you have the spray on, but dynamat (or it's many copies) do work wonders.
Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter GLTHFJ60
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- Thread starter
- #3,922
Yessir. Current plan is to use dynamat from the firewall to the front seats, then dynaliner, then vinyl/rubber floor on top.
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did you find a good source for bulk vinyl flooring material yet? I'm ready
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- #3,924
No. I did find a product that looked promising from mcmaster, a type of thermoformable plastic vinyl, but I'm not convinced that's the right route. $250/sheet has me apprehensive to give it a go.
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- Joined
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- 14,278
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
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- www.cruisermatts.com
Yeah, for that much I'd be trying to remold the $130 Ford super duty flooring. Probably cheap to get a used one, might be gross through
- Thread starter
- #3,926
I'm sure it seems like I'm bouncing all around, but there's a method to my madness.
Bondo on the rear quarters and pillars to cover up most of the remainder of the dents and waves. I feel like it was a success, but it's far from perfect. The remaining imperfections will be a reminder that this is a trail truck, and not a show truck. It will be bent up again, but for now, it'll look good.
Don't worry, the bondo isn't very thick in final form. No one told me it's hard to lay bondo without voids!
After much sanding, a second coat of non-fiber material was laid:
Bondo on the rear quarters and pillars to cover up most of the remainder of the dents and waves. I feel like it was a success, but it's far from perfect. The remaining imperfections will be a reminder that this is a trail truck, and not a show truck. It will be bent up again, but for now, it'll look good.
Don't worry, the bondo isn't very thick in final form. No one told me it's hard to lay bondo without voids!
After much sanding, a second coat of non-fiber material was laid:
- Thread starter
- #3,927
Sanded out and masked:
- Thread starter
- #3,928
More epoxy primer, in black this time. I didn't want to know what moonshine looked in black, but now I do.
Can't see this all too well, but the lighting on this side of the garage sucks. It's pretty flat, I'm satisfied.
Can't see this all too well, but the lighting on this side of the garage sucks. It's pretty flat, I'm satisfied.
- Thread starter
- #3,929
Next up;
1. paint color on outside where already masked after sanding to 400 grit
**maybe paint the whole body, need to decide that**
2. unmask, remask the floor
3. paint interior roof, pillars
4. reassemble interior and wrap up wiring projects
5. bondo/primer doors
6. paint door insides with color
7. put doors and hatch back on the truck
8. mask and prep for final color spray
1. paint color on outside where already masked after sanding to 400 grit
**maybe paint the whole body, need to decide that**
2. unmask, remask the floor
3. paint interior roof, pillars
4. reassemble interior and wrap up wiring projects
5. bondo/primer doors
6. paint door insides with color
7. put doors and hatch back on the truck
8. mask and prep for final color spray
- Thread starter
- #3,930
Toyota 033 white, nason single stage. Few runs I need to correct, but I'm very happy for my first time.
- Thread starter
- #3,931
Interior has paint. Did you know hvlp guns don't work when pointed up? I know that now 
- Thread starter
- #3,932
Lessons learned from the paint job.
#1, overspray gets on everything. I did not do a good enough job masking the interior floor, so the floor isn't quite black anymore. Doesn't really matter, but I should have put the effort in to mask properly. FWIW, it doesn't look quite so grey after a washdown.
#2, runs in the paint caused by insufficient lighting. Passenger side didn't have adequate light, meaning I was having a hard time telling when the paint wetted out. One spray too heavy and I got some runs. These can be corrected, but if I had lighting, I wouldn't need to correct them.
#3, bondo needed more sanding. Hard to get a pic of it, but I can see the bondo line in the DS rear quarter panel. Not sure if I'm going to sand down and repaint this panel at this point, but this should have been caught during the prep stage.
#4, hvlp guns don't work upside down. I went to paint the interior roof and realized the HVLP gun I just filled doesn't work when pointed up. DUH. Switched over to a cup gun I fortunately had, but the tip apeture was too large (only tip I had) so I had a hard time controlling how much paint was coming out. PITA.
Not too bad for a first-timer. After staring at it for a week, I'm still happy with the paint job, which is what I wanted.
#1, overspray gets on everything. I did not do a good enough job masking the interior floor, so the floor isn't quite black anymore. Doesn't really matter, but I should have put the effort in to mask properly. FWIW, it doesn't look quite so grey after a washdown.
#2, runs in the paint caused by insufficient lighting. Passenger side didn't have adequate light, meaning I was having a hard time telling when the paint wetted out. One spray too heavy and I got some runs. These can be corrected, but if I had lighting, I wouldn't need to correct them.
#3, bondo needed more sanding. Hard to get a pic of it, but I can see the bondo line in the DS rear quarter panel. Not sure if I'm going to sand down and repaint this panel at this point, but this should have been caught during the prep stage.
#4, hvlp guns don't work upside down. I went to paint the interior roof and realized the HVLP gun I just filled doesn't work when pointed up. DUH. Switched over to a cup gun I fortunately had, but the tip apeture was too large (only tip I had) so I had a hard time controlling how much paint was coming out. PITA.
Not too bad for a first-timer. After staring at it for a week, I'm still happy with the paint job, which is what I wanted.
- Thread starter
- #3,933
Next up was insulation. Lizard skin sound control and ceramic insulation were sprayed on then painted over. Over that, a second skin asphalt stick on sound deadener (silver stuff) like dynamat. Over that, adhesive-backed dyna-liner. Over that, some carpet underlayment stuff I had laying around. Finally, rubber/vinyl flooring stuff I've had kicking around. I think this will be a good solution.
After all that, I spent a few hours looming the harness up, and putting the HVAC/lower dash back together. Pretty happy so far with the progress.
After all that, I spent a few hours looming the harness up, and putting the HVAC/lower dash back together. Pretty happy so far with the progress.
- Thread starter
- #3,937
Reassembly continues. I'm a fan of how this battery tray came together, and after a few reinforcements underneath, it's as solid as a rock.
The lithium batteries are insulated on the bottom with two layers of fatmat (above and below the steel tray), a piece of rubber flooring material, and insulated above with some carpet underlayment. The batteries are held in place with two layers of carpet underlayment pressing down on them. Seems to be secure.
The lithium batteries are insulated on the bottom with two layers of fatmat (above and below the steel tray), a piece of rubber flooring material, and insulated above with some carpet underlayment. The batteries are held in place with two layers of carpet underlayment pressing down on them. Seems to be secure.
- Thread starter
- #3,938
While working on reassembly, the doors and fenders got a skim coat of bondo, final dents hammered out, sanded, and shot with another layer of epoxy primer. They will get top coat paint a bit later this week. The painted pics are from this morning, and the wetness is morning dew.
This fender was the last one to get shot, and it may not have cured fully before it got cold. Will assess later today. Everything else looks great.
This fender was the last one to get shot, and it may not have cured fully before it got cold. Will assess later today. Everything else looks great.
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- Thread starter
- #3,939
One step at a time.
- Thread starter
- #3,940
Another small step.
