Looking forward to seeing how you do this.
Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter GLTHFJ60
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Looking forward to seeing how you do this.
- Thread starter
- #3,442
Mike and I were discussing this on the last page. My driveshaft length will be shrinking by about 12". If I keep my rear output as high as it is now (14" height difference between transfer output and rear diff yoke), then my driveshaft will be at a resting angle of ~31*, which is way to steep. Will take some more careful measurements when I get it together, and see what needs to be done.
So am I!
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 579
- Messages
- 16,291
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
- Thread starter
- #3,444
I'm not interested in lowering the truck at this stage.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 579
- Messages
- 16,291
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
Not for the purpose of lowering it, but to move the rear axle back.
Or you could move the rear back with your existing 63” springs like @brokenparts did.
- Thread starter
- #3,446
Not going to do that at this point. Maybe in the future.
- Thread starter
- #3,447
Found a solution to my driveshaft angle problem. Very exciting. Thanks to LowDown from Pirate for the reference.
35* max operating angle, highway rated, bad assery
Blazer Rear
35* max operating angle, highway rated, bad assery
Blazer Rear
I wish I'd known of this option before going on my multiple driveshafts, 4 link adventure. I don't think it would have helped in my situation though as the doubler setup was just too long for my rig (even if it was beastly in regards to strength).
- Thread starter
- #3,449
Have made some progress in the past week while rain was preventing me from working on what I should have been doing.
Leaks originating from the shift tower. Pain in the ass, but glad I pulled the transmission to clean everything up. Looking forward to not having to deal with a greasy drive train all the damn time now.
Clutch and pilot bearing look good. No excessive dust, pilot bearing and throwout bearing seem to be operating as expected. Good enough for me. Cleaned the transmission up and test fit. Changed the clocking a little bit to suit my preference. This is going to be so bad ass
Pulled off the 5th gear housing to inspect as per @cruisermatt 's recommendation. To my surprise, the PO welded the 5th gear nut on, so no worries here:
Cleaned and painted the transmission while I was in there, then installed the transmission as well as the doubler in the truck for good.
After that, cleaned out the interior, in preparation for surgery:
Until next time
Leaks originating from the shift tower. Pain in the ass, but glad I pulled the transmission to clean everything up. Looking forward to not having to deal with a greasy drive train all the damn time now.
Clutch and pilot bearing look good. No excessive dust, pilot bearing and throwout bearing seem to be operating as expected. Good enough for me. Cleaned the transmission up and test fit. Changed the clocking a little bit to suit my preference. This is going to be so bad ass
Pulled off the 5th gear housing to inspect as per @cruisermatt 's recommendation. To my surprise, the PO welded the 5th gear nut on, so no worries here:
Cleaned and painted the transmission while I was in there, then installed the transmission as well as the doubler in the truck for good.
After that, cleaned out the interior, in preparation for surgery:
Until next time
- Thread starter
- #3,450
I am not sure what you are doing for mounts but be sure to mount a mount on the rear of the NP205. I broke tow trans tailhousings before I put one on.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 579
- Messages
- 16,291
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
I suspect you’re going have to do something similar to what I did... such a pain
- Thread starter
- #3,454
NP205 Transfer Case Support, with Billet Bearing Retainer, Version 3 (Rubber Mount)
^^ Got one of these, anticipating that problem. Thank you!!
- Thread starter
- #3,455
My FIL and I got the transfer case in yesterday. Have to pull out the twin stick shifters (shifter plan is changing) and e-brake so we can start carving up the floor. No effing clue how @mr jits installed this transfer by hand, because it was a pain in the nuts with two people, with a tranny jack 
You have to bring out the inner beast when you're pressing it into place!My FIL and I got the transfer case in yesterday. Have to pull out the twin stick shifters (shifter plan is changing) and e-brake so we can start carving up the floor. No effing clue how @mr jits installed this transfer by hand, because it was a pain in the nuts with two people, with a tranny jack
Or, do as I did, which is put the ecobox in first and press the 205 up and into place after. There's no way I'd try to press both into place at once!
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Even benching the 205 is impressive. Would not want to drop that on my face!
- Thread starter
- #3,458
Things started off somewhat tame yesterday:
But then we achieved full "**** it"
Yeah, this is going to be bad ass.
But then we achieved full "**** it"
Yeah, this is going to be bad ass.
- Thread starter
- #3,459
Use the WagonGear seatbox to make sure the floor was square, then began fabricating the new body crossmember. Really gives you a perspective of how much was cut out.
Used 1/8" plate to make the bottom skin of the new crossmember.
Started creating the upper structure with sheetmetal, 16 gauge IIRC. Made two ribs to extend the structure up, then skinned it. The gaps look larger in the pictures than in real life, I swear
One step at a time. Shifter placement and crossmember fabrication is next.
Used 1/8" plate to make the bottom skin of the new crossmember.
Started creating the upper structure with sheetmetal, 16 gauge IIRC. Made two ribs to extend the structure up, then skinned it. The gaps look larger in the pictures than in real life, I swear
One step at a time. Shifter placement and crossmember fabrication is next.
- Thread starter
- #3,460
I forgot. Before doing that, I changed out the PS motor mount to try to correct the 3.5* tilt towards the passenger side. Didn't help, so I used a 5/8" spacer on top of the motor mount to get the engine up level side-to-side. Didn't find any evidence of a failed frame side engine mount, so I'm assuming that we got it "close enough" during install, and didn't check.
Y'all are going to like the crossmembers we came up with for this truck. Very slick
Y'all are going to like the crossmembers we came up with for this truck. Very slick
